LCR wishbone rebushing guide

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
This is a rough guide on how i rebushed mine and few other LCR wishbones
CAUTION- You will need fairly heavy duty tools for some parts of this and i take no responsibility for anyone breaking stuff or hurting themselves whilst following it.
Here are the part numbers and prices of all OE bits for all variants courtesy of sere motors

LCR wishbone inc bushes - left 1ML407151 £115
LCR wishbone inc bushes - right 1ML407152 £115
LCR front arm front bush 1ML407182 £9.50
LCR front arm rear bush 8N0407181B £15.65
LCR Balljoint (left and right) 8N0407365C £30.25
LCR balljoint nuts (3 each) N10332001 50p each
Wishbone front mounting bolt N90484004 95p
Wishbone rear mounting bolt N10262202 £1.30
Wishbone rear mounting nut N0150816 60p each
LCR top mount 1ML412331 £22.55
LCR top bearing 1J0412249 £5.40
LCR top threaded bush 1H0412365A £1.75
LCR top nut N90353604 65p

Standard wishbone inc bushes - left and right 1J0407151C £50.40
Standard front arm front bush 357407182 £7.80
Standard front arm rear bush 1J0407181 £9.75
Standard balljoint - left 1J0407365H £21.30
Standard balljoint - right 1J0407366H £21.30
Standard balljoint plate 1J0407175 £5
Standard balljoint bolts (3 each) N10127707 50p each
Wishbone front mounting bolt N90484004 95p
Wishbone rear mounting bolt N10262202 £1.30
Wishbone rear mounting nut N0150816 60p each
Standard top mount 1J0412331C £9.45
Standard top bearing 1J0412249 £5.40
Standard top threaded bush 1H0412365A £1.75
Standard top nut N90353604 65p

All powerflex uprated part numbers
Front Wishbone Front Bush, Cast Arm (LCR), 45mm OD PFF3-501
Front Wishbone Front Bush, Pressed Arm, 30mm OD PFF85-201
Front Wishbone Rear Bush, Cast Arm (LCR) PFF3-610
Front Wishbone Rear Bush, Pressed Arm PFF85-410
Front Wishbone Rear Bush (Race Use) PFF85-414


I decided to get some donor wishbones and rebush them so i didnt have to waste time trying to do this with the car jacked up and waiting
08042010018.jpg

These were actually off an S3 but same front subframe setup
Part Nos
08042010019.jpg

08042010020.jpg

I then gave them a good wire brushing down to remove all the crap and rust, etc. from them
I opted to rebush my set with powerflex bushes (took a while to get after the fire though)
Here are the pics of the new ones to replace the old
08042010021.jpg

08042010024.jpg

08042010023.jpg

This rear bush actually split down the middle so quite easy to refit once removed
 
Last edited:

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
The most difficult part of the rebushing is the removal, the rears especially so here is how i removed them
This was my setup in work vice, piece of solid bar, a 2" pipe connector and brute force
09042010024.jpg

Here is the size of the fitting for anyone needing rough dimensions
13042010031.jpg

Keep tighten the vice more then backing off to break the rubber, be careful it is straight or it might ping out and a pretty hefty vice is a must.
After a while this should happen
09042010025.jpg

You can then easily pull it out
Then get a hacksaw and remove the blade and feed it through the new hole in bush to allow cutting of the casing
09042010026.jpg
 

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
Afetr cutting through the casing get a suitable screwdriver preferably pound through and punch the casing out on the split
09042010027.jpg

09042010028.jpg

Try not to cut into the actual wishbone though, you shoulf feel the difference as the wishbone is steel and the casing aluminium
A quick clean of the inner bore to remove rust and debris with some scotch bright
09042010029.jpg

The new bush can then be lubed up with supplied sachet and pushed in by hand from either side then clamped in vice to send it fully home.
These are the most difficult to remove
The front bushes can be removed the same way but if using poly for the front a hydraulic press is needed really hence no photos as they really take some pusshing in, i did mine at work
A garage/ engineering company can push these in very easily as access is plentiful on this end.
When finished should look something like this
09042010030.jpg

All now ready to go on the car
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
I didn't use a vice to replace mine, although the metal tubing was used in a similar way. I actually used a threaded rod through the middle, several washers and bits of metal with two nuts either end, then a nice big wrench to wind it in until it popped like you show in one of the middle pictures.

As for the larger ones, I just pounded away at the metal casing until it deformed and fell out, no bother there. I also didn't need a hydraulic press to fit the new bushes, although they are squirmy barstewards! Again, a bit of threaded rod, with some large plates of metal and two more nuts, and the whole thing just needed a couple of spanners and a LOT of patience! It took at least a dozen attempts before they stayed square and got pushed in sufficiently for the lip to 'pop' on the far side.
 

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
The poly bushes were fitted at the same time as the coilovers so difficult to know exactly how much difference they made but having rebushed a set with OE the poly much firmer.
To push new OE bushes ina hydraulic press is not really required but the poly ones are very stiff and i think you will really struggle as they are so tight. It wasnt that easy even with the press
 

GREY 225

Jim R
Oct 15, 2006
445
0
Tightens up front end nicely, also stops tyres wearing unevenly on inside edge once tracking set correctly, i didnt notice much more vibration with bushes when i fitted mine after the coilovers.
 

GREY 225

Jim R
Oct 15, 2006
445
0
So how are the tyres after this is done, are the old bushes the cause of inner tyre wear due to all the adjustment being taken up?

First set of ps2 tyres wore on inside edge, but still had plenty tread on rest of tyre, second set of ps2, which im just about to change now have done 5000 miles more than 1st set with bushes fitted.
It might be the coilovers & bushes together that are the cause of even tyre wear, but i think the bushes are the most contributing factor by keeping the wishbone soild and and in line.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
To push new OE bushes ina hydraulic press is not really required but the poly ones are very stiff and i think you will really struggle as they are so tight. It wasnt that easy even with the press

It was poly bushes that I fitted (Powerflex) and I totally agree they were a struggle! :) I did find it funny the instructions actually said they can be fitted by hand, like bo**cks can they!! The two part ones yes, but not the larger ones!
 

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
Forgot to add that after fitting a 4 wheel alignment should be done and the camber can be adjusted on the slots for the balljoints
I am currently running 1 degree of negative camber per side(OE is is roughly 0.3 to 0.5 or something), this will make the tyres wear on the inside a little faster but should aid turn in and handling
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
So the LCR and S3 share the same wishbone, what about the LC and the TT anyone know?

I believe the method of installation is the same, but the bushes themselves are a different size. You can see the different part numbers if you go to the powerflex website and look at their fitting guide. I believe the large bush is a different size.
 

Ronin225

Active Member
Jan 17, 2008
4,652
22
Worcester
LCR, TT, S3 all have cast wishbones requiring the larger front bush
LC has smaller pressed wishbones with a smaller front bush
 
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