Car wont start.
- Thread starter STU3Y
- Start date
Number 4 in the list you already looked at. Ha ha!Oh, no, sorry didn't know we covered if already
Just one thought. I recently installed a dash cam but as far as im aware the fuse socket ive used is switched with the ignition. (it goes on and off as it should with key)But thought I would check with you guys just incase it is draining the batt, even though I take cam out. I have drls on the one with the red connector and the dash cam on the one to the left with the blue connector. (this is not my image I have piggyback connectors in mine).
Could this be draining batt
Could this be draining batt
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Iv just had some issues similar to yours,, car would randomly not start,, just kept cranking but would no fire,,
When it does it next time,, pull one of your plugs and crank it to see if it sparks,, if it doesn't it's defo your crank speed sensor,, if that's not giving a signal to the ecu it will not spark,, same as mine,, but mine wasn't the sensor, it was a dodgy connection on the plug at the ecu end,, recently had it disconnected and bent the pin connecting it back up,,
I did get a crank sensor from europarts it was £19 just to try it,, I ended up putting mine in a vag specialist who Sussed it in less then an hour,,,
An mine never showed any fault codes either, if I unplugged the sensor then it would pick up the fault, but when it was all connected up and cleared all faults, after cranking it would still be clear off faults and still wouldn't start,
Just check to see if you got a spark next time it plays up,, if not, I'd be 100% it's your crank sensor,,
When it does it next time,, pull one of your plugs and crank it to see if it sparks,, if it doesn't it's defo your crank speed sensor,, if that's not giving a signal to the ecu it will not spark,, same as mine,, but mine wasn't the sensor, it was a dodgy connection on the plug at the ecu end,, recently had it disconnected and bent the pin connecting it back up,,
I did get a crank sensor from europarts it was £19 just to try it,, I ended up putting mine in a vag specialist who Sussed it in less then an hour,,,
An mine never showed any fault codes either, if I unplugged the sensor then it would pick up the fault, but when it was all connected up and cleared all faults, after cranking it would still be clear off faults and still wouldn't start,
Just check to see if you got a spark next time it plays up,, if not, I'd be 100% it's your crank sensor,,
I know yea, just realized now lol, same principle tho,, does make it abit trickier to diagnose with being diesel tho
For ease of viewing
Full list of possible causes, comment if you can assist with any of the above, even the ones already answered. Your expertise and experience will be much appreciated. Please remember that this fault only occurs after the car has sat for 3-4 days, and does not occur other than that.
1.GLOW PLUGS
Unlikely due to operating temp of 14 degrees - not checked
2. FUEL FILTER
Unlikely as no running issues - replaced now anyway
3. BATTERY AMPS
Unlikely as cranks well, not checked properly but on multimeter shows, 12.64 engine off, 10.61 when started, 14+ while running. Also battery condition lense still shows as green on battery itself, Is that considered ruled out?
4. FUEL PUMP (under back seat) - possible
Can be heard to prime, and delivers fuel into filter housing when ignition cycled. Ruled out?
5. CRANK SENSOR - possible
Possibly checked using torque app, revved at 211 first crank then 838 running, 117 second crank 838 running. (All of this is while the problem isn't present)
Need to check if revs rise when cranking next time engine fails to start.
Where is it?
6. CAM SHAFT SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause delay in start rather than failure to start.
Where is it and How do you check this?
7. INJECTORS
Unlikely as should throw up fault code - not checked
8. NON RETURN VALVE
Where is it and how do I check this???
9. FUEL TEMP SENSOR
Where is it and how do I check this???
10. STARTER MOTOR
how do I check this???
11. INJECTOR SEALS
how do I check this???
12. HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
Where is it and how do I check this???
13. COOLANT TEMP SENNSOR
Where is it and how do I check this???
14. ELECTRICAL DRAIN ON BATT BY DASHCAM
Believed to switched so unlikely unless someone knows different. See above post with pic
Full list of possible causes, comment if you can assist with any of the above, even the ones already answered. Your expertise and experience will be much appreciated. Please remember that this fault only occurs after the car has sat for 3-4 days, and does not occur other than that.
1.GLOW PLUGS
Unlikely due to operating temp of 14 degrees - not checked
2. FUEL FILTER
Unlikely as no running issues - replaced now anyway
3. BATTERY AMPS
Unlikely as cranks well, not checked properly but on multimeter shows, 12.64 engine off, 10.61 when started, 14+ while running. Also battery condition lense still shows as green on battery itself, Is that considered ruled out?
4. FUEL PUMP (under back seat) - possible
Can be heard to prime, and delivers fuel into filter housing when ignition cycled. Ruled out?
5. CRANK SENSOR - possible
Possibly checked using torque app, revved at 211 first crank then 838 running, 117 second crank 838 running. (All of this is while the problem isn't present)
Need to check if revs rise when cranking next time engine fails to start.
Where is it?
6. CAM SHAFT SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause delay in start rather than failure to start.
Where is it and How do you check this?
7. INJECTORS
Unlikely as should throw up fault code - not checked
8. NON RETURN VALVE
Where is it and how do I check this???
9. FUEL TEMP SENSOR
Where is it and how do I check this???
10. STARTER MOTOR
how do I check this???
11. INJECTOR SEALS
how do I check this???
12. HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
Where is it and how do I check this???
13. COOLANT TEMP SENNSOR
Where is it and how do I check this???
14. ELECTRICAL DRAIN ON BATT BY DASHCAM
Believed to switched so unlikely unless someone knows different. See above post with pic
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If you've got that many variables and you don't know what's causing it maybe you should take it to a garage
I am probably going too, but was hoping to rule a few out first as it is most likely be expensive and trial and error, due to the garage only really able begin diagnosis when the fault is present and at this stage it is working fine. I am waiting for a few days for it to develop again before I can attempt to figure out whats wrong with the help of experts on here
Hate it when you get an intermittent fault. Hard work trying to diagnose it. Becomes an educated guess. Hope you get it sorted and doesn't cost you too much!
I think it's a diesel we're talking about
Yes your right
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Have u tryed a drop voltage test on battery clamps ? And also if the altarnator is charging after few days can be bad ground wire ?
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is that where you disconnect negative cable and check voltage between cable and negative terminal. Not sure what you mean bout alternator. do you mean not charging?
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Ok few test can be done now
1 - get the ground camp off the battery and use a multi meter and put a probe in the battery ground and other probe on camp which u took off and make sure there is no extra voltage showing up meaning something is taking power over night,
2- get the multi meter and check for ohm on the live wire going from battery to altarnator has wire working and not burnt out
3- put meter on the battery and start car up and make sure it reads over 14v if it does then it's fine if it goes from 13v and down then bad belt or altnator
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I am very bad with electrics and dont really know how to use the multimeter, but I will try the top one in a few days. At the moment I am not using the car to see if it is the batt causing all my probs. So when it doesnt start again I will hook up to a diff car and see if starts first time. if it does then I will check the drain on the battery as described. when I used car last it was at 14v+ when running, 12.64 when not, however I have not started car since thurs and checked it yest and it was 12.54, today its at 12.51.
Do you know if the fuse socket shown above with the blue cable draws any power with ignition off cos that's the only electrical change ive made recently and as far as I can see it goes on and off with ignition.
Do you know if the fuse socket shown above with the blue cable draws any power with ignition off cos that's the only electrical change ive made recently and as far as I can see it goes on and off with ignition.
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Are u local from Sheffield ? Also if u made new wirings it can be wired into the live power thermanal which is on the red dotted fuse box
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