Newbie's Cupra R queries - please help!

[6th.replicant]

Hi folks
I want to replace my longterm, ultra-reliable Golf Mk3 GTI 16v with a Mk1 Cupra R ('03/'04, approx 40-50k miles).

But, I've some concerns re Cupra R running costs & reliability, so wondered if you experts could advise, please.

Is it true that Rs have a big appetite for brake pads, needing new fronts every 20k, or maybe less, even if you don't drive 'em hard?

Similarly, front tyres don't last much more than 12k?

Also, & this is my main concern, after about 70k I can expect problems (ie very expensive!) re the turbo/inter-coolers? Or are there plenty of Cupra Rs out here with over a 100k & running with no probs on the original turbo?

Any other advice + 'dos & don'ts' would be really appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[brad1]

yeah, quite a few cupra r's on here near or around a 100k with no problems, as long as they are serviced regulary and well maintained, i.e not ragged when cold and let to warm up and also not ragged and turned of straight away as this can cause future damage to a turbo
im not sure of the pads and tire side of it as i dont own a cupra r

 

[Chris20vT]

I used to have a Leon Cupra, not an 'R' model, it was remapped to similar power to that of the 'R' model and didn't have too much trouble with tyre wear.

A set of fronts lasted me about 18,000 miles but I think the compound is softer for the R model hence wearing down quicker, you can cheat and move the back tyres to the front and replace all 4 when the time comes, that can save you a little cash and get the maximum mileage out of them.

However with the car you are considering there is only so much of these running costs you need to consider, if this bothers you, then buy a Fiesta with a small engine and tyres that cost only £30 to replace! Essentially people don't buys these cars to worry about such wear and tear issues.

Pads are much like tyres, depends how hard you drive, again as a sort of comparision I never changed the front pads, I sold it with 37,000 on the clock, in fact I only had to change the rears!

You have to remember the fronts are 18's, with front wheel drive and putting out 210 or 225bhp, the tyres are going to wear pretty quickly, almost regardless of driving style.

Its almost like worrying about the MPG, if it worries you then the car is not for you !!!!

 

[Ronin225]

its not too bad mate i have an R and the front pads were done at 18000 and had new tyres when i bought at 16000. cant see them getting through 2 sets already??? as for the fuel i run it on BP ultimate so a bit more expensive but i still get about 29 mpg on average

 

[6th.replicant]

Thanks for replies - all of the above sounds good to me.

Another query: are LCRs reasonably quiet & 'relaxed' on the motorway? I realise that 90mph is 3500rpm in 6th - but is there lots of 'roar' from the 40-profile tyres?

For example, my Mk3 GTI 16v is a real 'buzzbox' at 90mph (4000rpm) - can't hear the stereo & have to shout if I want to converse with passengers (which is why I've ruled-out a Civic Type-R or Clio 172!).

Ta

 

[richybigman]

I can only go by my experiance with the 'R'. My last tyres (Goodyear Eagle F1's) lasted only 6k miles and the tyres at the moment (Michelin PS2's) are at around 10k miles with plenty left to go.
I changed my front original brake pads at about 15k miles and my new set (Ferodo DS2500's) are on 13k miles with what looks like a fair bit left.
If you're going to buy a performance car you have to expect to replace bits more often. If you drive it sedately then you will get more milage out of the 'consumables' but if you're going to drive it sedately then why get an 'R'?

 

[richybigman]

Oh and they're pretty quiet on the motorway i've founf with mine, even with an uprated turbo back exhaust

 

[slatord]

I have the Cupra model and it is really quiet when driving around, can easily hear the radio and talk to people when driving fast on the motorway. The only time the car gets "noisy" is when you try putting your foot through the floor! but even then i love the sound it makes (with induction kit and turbo back)

 

[MK R BOY]

Hi Mate

I have an 04 R which I have had from new. It has now got 31k on the clock and I've had one set of original brembo front pads put on, they lasted until
22k and cost me about £170 fully fitted. The tyres are still the standard Pzeros which are awesome and I will get about 15k off the fronts, which is pretty good and if you shop about then they are about £115 a boot.

My driving is about 8k a year and I commute from Milton Keynes to London Heathrow, so mostly motorway with a little bit of fun (not much!!) and I can get 400 miles out of a tank of Vpower.

Hope that helps.

Rgds

 

[6th.replicant]

Ta v much for all of your replies.

Have looked at various threads at this site & it seems that several of you LCR folks are vehement re choice of high-octane petrol.

Do these high-octane brews actually produce more bhp, improve mpg - or both?

Ta, again.

 

[Ronin225]

if you have a custom remap i have heard they can take the better petrol into account to squeeze that extra bit of power. i just find the car runs better on it

 

[traumapat]

Ta v much for all of your replies.

Have looked at various threads at this site & it seems that several of you LCR folks are vehement re choice of high-octane petrol.

Do these high-octane brews actually produce more bhp, improve mpg - or both?

Ta, again.

a lot on here have had remaps designed to run on 98/99 petrol. youll get less power with 95. when i had my first remap they asked me to run it on optimax/vpower so they could get a little more from her, so it makes a difference.

 

[GREY 225]

Wouldnt worry about brake pads too much,its not that they are particulary hard on the pads,its just that the brembos have less pad material on them compared to normal pads to start with from new.

 

[richybigman]

The tyres are still the standard Pzeros which are awesome and I will get about 15k off the fronts, which is pretty good and if you shop about then they are about £115 a boot.

Just a quickie but the grip of the Pzero's are ,in my opinion, inadequate for the power of the car.....especially in the wet.

Falken's, Goodyear's or Michelin's

 

[6th.replicant]

Just a quickie but the grip of the Pzero's are ,in my opinion, inadequate for the power of the car.....especially in the wet.

Falken's, Goodyear's or Michelin's

Apparently, Goodyear Hydragrips are very good in the wet - which is quite useful in the UK! - but I dunno if you can get 'em as 225/40 18s?

 

[DOLBY]

Ta v much for all of your replies.

Have looked at various threads at this site & it seems that several of you LCR folks are vehement re choice of high-octane petrol.

Do these high-octane brews actually produce more bhp, improve mpg - or both?

Ta, again.

i always run on v-power ALWAYS!...i once put £10 worth of 95 ron in cos i was desperate...ran the car down to zero miles worth of fuel..found a shell garage and they had NO v-power, and wouldnt have for a few more days....i nearly cried lol drivin it home....CAR FELT CRAP!
my car runs so much smoother on v-power, when it was mapped by jbs, james asked me what it was run on..i told him v-power, the reason he asked was because he was impressed with the way the car performed on the RR..he said a combination of the fuel, the way i drive etc he could persevere with extracting as much from the engine as possible..he did aswell aroun 5-6 hours i was up chesterfield way, (my girlfriend at the time was NOT happy or impressed lol)...hugely gratefull to james cos my car is sweet, so smooth....

cant understand why anyone driving anyform of performance car n/a or turbocharged would throw shite fuel in..my mate has a mini cooper s and he puts 95 ron in..(to save money)....

 

[6th.replicant]

... if this bothers you, then buy a Fiesta with a small engine and tyres that cost only £30 to replace! Essentially people don't buys these cars to worry about such wear and tear issues.

Pads are much like tyres, depends how hard you drive...

Thanks for taking time to reply. But as my current car is a GTI 16v, I suspect that a base-spec Fiesta is not the answer. I think I might have grip on the pros/cons of quick cars: prior to the 16v, in reverse order, I ran an Impreza Turbo; Intergrale 16v; 205 GTi 1.9; Mk2 GTI 8v; & a 5 GT Turbo. (And before you ask, the reason I ‘dropped’ from a Scoobie to a GTI 16v was a career change.)

Re LCR pad & tyre wear: I was warned, albeit by an 'armchair expert', that LCRs chew pads cos of the TC/ESP, not driving style. Of course, TC/ESP are brake-based. So, if a manufacturer's TC/ESP setup is too zealous, the consequence is OTT pad wear, which, for example, is a problem for many Mini Cooper owners.

Similarly, I was advised that LCRs munch front tyres cos of Seat's camber/toe setup (to quell understeer). As I'm sure you're also aware, extreme camber/toe rapidly grinds rubber when driving in a straight line, irrespective of 'how hard you drive'.

Not all performance cars voraciously consume tyres, brakes, dampers, clutches, fuel etc – some are actually ‘fit for purpose’. And having experienced the differences of Scoobie (no probs) vs Intergrale (nightmare!) & 205 GTi 1.9 (OK) vs 5 GT Turbo (nightmare!) ownership – I should know!

However, it would appear that, judging from this forum, I was advised incorrectly - LCRs are indeed ‘fit for purpose’.

Thanks again to all who replied.

 

[richybigman]

I don't know about other LCR drivers but 99% of the time i have the TC/ESP turned off

 

[Ronin225]

i have to say i have mine on all the time but then i have never been arsed to turn it off and my breaks and tyres dont really take a beasting wear wise

 

[6th.replicant]

Is it possible to have the TC on, but the ESP off?