like myki says, it could be an air flow problemmaybe fmic related?
In what way could the fmic be causing this to happend as car has been running fmic for months with no problems.....
120mph & thats it
- Thread starter R4cup
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In what way could the fmic be causing this to happend as car has been running fmic for months with no problems.....
Hoses normally only collapse at top end so could well be that.
Without seeing any logs from the cooler my bet is on that being at fault tbh
Without seeing any logs from the cooler my bet is on that being at fault tbh
Well i had my clutch & flywheel replaced a few months back now for the g60/vr6 setup which i feel has made the car pull harder through the gears, but puzzled about top end
You are quite funny arent u! intercooler is off a petrol not diesel LOL
Compared to what ive seen on this site looking at prices people have payed & the results they have got i think
yeah i'm a ****ing comedian???
I didnt realise any petrol Range rover had front mounting intercoolers.
that 2nd sentence dont make sence either.... but i guess your saying its ok in comparision to what others have...fairy ****
you dont seem to want to listen to people, but just to clarify, the gearbox isnt limiting the engine and the clutch and fly wont have anything to do with it unless they are incorrectly fitted. it could also be standard tip collapsing if it hasnt been swapped, very possible when belting it in 5th
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HA HA fairy ****
Thats why i love this forum, 2 much joke.Anyway i am still running standard tip which as u said could be the problem so i shall look into & keep u posted.
Thanks in advanced
Checked mine today and at 120mph it sits at 15psi. Obviously ive got the forge tip and pretty much everything else tho lol
mine is the same. i am running a standard intercooler and gets to 120mph and runs out of steam some how. drops about 5 psi and wont budge off 6psi.
i have a stadard TIP, going to unplug the maf and see if it makes any diffrence.
i have a stadard TIP, going to unplug the maf and see if it makes any diffrence.
That 5k limit is to protect the engine. It happened on my mk2 just because the dizzy was slightly out of position, rotor arm, cam, crank, dizzy pulley etc was spot on.
I would check the timing marks as a starting point.
I would check the timing marks as a starting point.
Im sure you do not have a distributor, so on that basis im thinking there are only two marks to check, them being the cam and crank marks, hopefully if there is another someone will mention it!
as you look at the engine on the left there should be a plastic cover, unclip it and take it off so you can see the cambelt.
on the large pulley right at the top should be a timing mark, usually 'O/T', that needs to line up with the 'TDC' arrow mark on the head.
what i do (as i havent the spanner for the bottom pulley!) and you need to be delicate is on a flat surface put the car in first gear with the handbrake off and gently rock the car and pull towards you which will move the engine until it gets lined up spot on to TDC.
When this is done you need to check the crank timing mark, which is usually done by removing a rubber gromet on the top of the gearbox housing (right of engine), there should be a timing mark in there, make sure its spot on.
as you look at the engine on the left there should be a plastic cover, unclip it and take it off so you can see the cambelt.
on the large pulley right at the top should be a timing mark, usually 'O/T', that needs to line up with the 'TDC' arrow mark on the head.
what i do (as i havent the spanner for the bottom pulley!) and you need to be delicate is on a flat surface put the car in first gear with the handbrake off and gently rock the car and pull towards you which will move the engine until it gets lined up spot on to TDC.
When this is done you need to check the crank timing mark, which is usually done by removing a rubber gromet on the top of the gearbox housing (right of engine), there should be a timing mark in there, make sure its spot on.
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