LCR Knock, Knock!!!
- Thread starter Loony R
- Start date
-
- Tags
- knock seat leon cupra r
Tell me about it.
My garage is baffled, they told me all I can do is wait for it to get worse. Thing is its not, its been the same for over a year!!!!
The setup was completely standard when it started so I cant put it down to anything I've changed haha.
It makes me hate my car! Wouldn't even be able to sell it with it either.
I think full suspension kit (weitec) is the only way, but believe me if the knock is still there after there will be 1 less LCR in existence Hee!!!
My garage is baffled, they told me all I can do is wait for it to get worse. Thing is its not, its been the same for over a year!!!!
The setup was completely standard when it started so I cant put it down to anything I've changed haha.
It makes me hate my car! Wouldn't even be able to sell it with it either.
I think full suspension kit (weitec) is the only way, but believe me if the knock is still there after there will be 1 less LCR in existence Hee!!!
Haha I keep trying to save for a stg2 but keep spendin the money tryin to find the dam nkocking noise haha.
Who ya using for the remap?
Who ya using for the remap?
You sure? They're solid with no play at all.
I'll order a pair today.
If the knock is still there I wont be your friend anymore HAHA!
Ta
I'll order a pair today.
If the knock is still there I wont be your friend anymore HAHA!
Ta
Sounds good to me matey. Have you had it on the rollers before so you have a base figure to go off?
No not yet they do a run before then map it then run it again to see the power diff so happy with that to be fair, see what it putin out just with full system an air feed. Should be happy tho I can keep up with my mates starlet glanzer an he can keep up with the new rs so looks like we will be sayin good bye to them next week
I'd lived with the same noise, and passed an MOT, for ages.You sure? They're solid with no play at all.
I'll order a pair today.
If the knock is still there I wont be your friend anymore HAHA!
Ta
I went through all the stages you guys went through to finally find out it was the ball joints.
Oh and BTW I did mention this on one of the earlier pages on this thread.
If you don't want to change them it's fine, live with the noise
I wasn't being funny or ignoring you, I'm just a bit confused that something with no signs of wear would be the cause. Especially when a bunch of skilled guys cant find it.I'd lived with the same noise, and passed an MOT, for ages.
I went through all the stages you guys went through to finally find out it was the ball joints.
Oh and BTW I did mention this on one of the earlier pages on this thread.
If you don't want to change them it's fine, live with the noise
If I was a mechanic, wishbone bushes and ball joints would be where I checked 1st.
We are finding that with experience and a big membership on here we perhaps know more about our cars than the Seat mechanics do let alone independent mechanic
No not yet they do a run before then map it then run it again to see the power diff so happy with that to be fair, see what it putin out just with full system an air feed. Should be happy tho I can keep up with my mates starlet glanzer an he can keep up with the new rs so looks like we will be sayin good bye to them next week
Cant fault will at powertorque,ive had my lcr mapped twice now there.Its now stage 2 and 270hp,and im now struggling to find roads long enough to realy stretch its legs!!
Yea I can't wait I had the revo 5hr trial back when I bought the car an couldn't believe the power increase it was silly even one of the boys said it was one of the fastest things he ever been in, he was even grabbing the door handle lol hope it just has a good read out
Jack car up, slacken the wishbone nuts and push this out of your way.
Slacken the nyloc nut on top of the ball joint and remove.
This could be difficult to remove so having a ball joint splitter handy will help.
Buy new ball joints, nuts for the top and 6 new wish bone nuts if you want to do it belt and braces.
you can mark the position of the wish bone/ball joint connection before removing but I found mine was slide out to its max on the wish bone.
To be 100% sure you can get a 4 wheel alignment done after this too, but I didn't
Slacken the nyloc nut on top of the ball joint and remove.
This could be difficult to remove so having a ball joint splitter handy will help.
Buy new ball joints, nuts for the top and 6 new wish bone nuts if you want to do it belt and braces.
you can mark the position of the wish bone/ball joint connection before removing but I found mine was slide out to its max on the wish bone.
To be 100% sure you can get a 4 wheel alignment done after this too, but I didn't
Similar threads
