How do I know if i need a new dmf?

[Jamie225]

Hey, i removed my gearbox from my lcr today to get the gearbox rebuilt to stop that annoying 3rd gear problem. I am going to replace the clutch but do i need to change the flywheel aswel? It has between 10-20mm freeplay and that freeplay is quite loose? Hopefully somebody will know. This is an expensive game so if i can save on the flywheel that would be great.

I know the dmf is supposed to have freeplay but im just checking to see if there is any other obvious signs to look for.

 

[Gubien]

IF you are changing to a SMF, dont take a SPEC unless you like a "rattling" sound on idle... however, it does take revs quite nice with a 9 lbs SMF.

 

[BoomhaueR]

I too would like to know this.

 

[craig lcr]

faulty DMf?

ive recently experienced some vibration through my clutch pedal when setting off and theres a kind of creaking noise when first going.ive been told that it could possible be my DMF.

should i buy a new flywheel and also a clutch?
if so what would people recomend dont really want to spend a fortune but want a good replacement.

my 03 LCR is remaped to stage 1.

thanks for any advice craig

 

[Jamie225]

gsf standard replacements are very good prices. exactley the same as from the dealer in a different box at a fraction of price, and i mean fraction.

 

[welchy]

How do you tell if your DMF is dying?

Right, Im pretty sure im going to need a new clutch and DMF at some point in the near future. I have an 03 plate LCR with what im almost certain is the original clutch and DMF.

Now the clutch hasn't slipped at all and seems to be going strong, but at 94,000 miles it cant hold out for too much longer.

Sometimes i hear a rattle when low down in the revs that i am unsure of being the DMF, before i churn out oodles of money for the clutch and DMF to be done i wouldnt mind knowing if i needed it.

Thinking of getting stage 1 map sometime soon so wouldnt want to fork out for this only for it to eat through the clutch etc and have no money to run it!

Any help would be much appreciated!

Regards

Welchy

 

[DPJ]

No need for yet another thread. Plenty of existing ones to chose from. Merged

 

[welchy]

anybody any answers to it though?

 

[IBD]

You can tell, when you start the car from cold, you find it difficult to get the car in gear
The clutch pedal is heavy and the bite point very low. I have found the clutch pedal stick half way down when cold as well.

 

[csd_19]

A clutch pedal sticking halfway down sounds more like a problem with either the master or slave hydraulic cylinder, not the DMF.

I found a lot of free-play in my DMF when it was removed 5 years ago, had the same amount of of play Jamie describes above. I'd noticed that if you blipped the revs at idle with the clutch down there was an audible clunk - this disappeared once I fitted a Helix SMF and clutch.

 

[IBD]

Only sticks down when cold for the first couple of minutes until the clutch and fly warm up.
I had the same problem with my last Leon when the dmf went, in the winter, the master had already been changed at this point

 

[armo]

iv been through this, on my last 2 cars! the pedal sticking is a leak, either on the cylinders or the bleed valve. what you will find is one day you will have the clutch depressed in gear and seconds later once the pressure drops with the leak it will bite and try to pull away. master cylinder and bleed valves are an easy, relatively cheap fix, if its your slave its box out job and starts getting expensive as you might aswell replace the clutch etc. With your dual mass, side to side play is not a problem so long as its not excessive, on other cars a dmf tends to disintegrate from the rivets jamming your starter with debris giving you a sign your in trouble, with these they jam up making pulling away awful, you would normally hear a distinct rattling on tick over, by distinct i mean you will defo know its rattling, like a hammer rattling round a tool box. also in some cases you would get a squeek on the clutch pedal when changing down a cog and miss matching the revs to the engine speed. Hope some of this helps

 

[welchy]

well fingers crossed i dont have a problem as of yet then!

 

[armo]

i had 104k on the original clutch, i changed it due to having a knackered slave and on inspection there wasnt a thing wrong with it, also the dmf's dont really tend to go in the 1.8t its the diesels. The dmf's job other than to drive the car is to absorb vibration from the engine to make the car a smoother drive, perfect for a diesel rattle box but i really dont think they need to be fitted to a petrol as there smooth anyway! couple that with lower torque and there is a lot less stress on the flywheel

 

[welchy]

So would getting a remap adding extra torque effect the dmf if im going for stage 1?

 

[armo]

im stage 1 on the original flywheel and i havent ran into any problems what so ever mate, what i would say is that you will probably nail your clutch on stage 1, youl prob get another 40k miles out of it standard, map it and that will drop to about 400 miles lol

 

[welchy]

The clutch in a way feels annoyingly good right now, but im pretty sure i'll need one before my map...