Gearbox oil change

VAG Diesels Rul

Active Member
Sep 27, 2008
61
0
I want to change the gearbox oil on my 51 reg diesel leon.I know its not very hard but im not sure where you drain the oil out.Seeing as there's no Haynes manual I'm not sure.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 

m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
Look for the 17mm hex bolt at the bottom, but find the one half way up as well (you'll need this to fill it)
 

vwbassett

Joined the Dark Side
Aug 13, 2007
963
53
Surrey
its drained out the bottom of the box and filled from the front about half way up. Make sure you do this when the car is dead level as otherwise you will not get the right amount in
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
As it happens I took some photos when I was under the car to fix a radiator leak.

This is an ASV engine with an EGS gearbox.


DogboneGBoildrain-1.jpg


Here you can see the dogbone mount and the gearbox drain plug.

GBfill-and-level.jpg


Here you can see the fill/level plug in the front of the gearbox.

The car has to be level when you fill the box, it's full when oil starts to dribble out of the filler hole. Probably the best arrangement is a funnel and tube from inside the engine compartment so you can fill it from above. If you have access to a pit it would be easy.
 

leontdisx

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
50
0
yeh thats what i thought... hopefully someone can confirm though. not going to have much luck with the dealer, they cant even honer their parts warranties let alone tell me some simple information correctly.

over the past few years main dealers have become such a nightmare, even dealers i have been to for years have become horrific.
 

cupra_r_ick

Active Member
Jan 29, 2011
1,076
3
not all main dealers are shat, i work at one, allbeit not a seat one
they have no choice about honoring their warranties
 
  • Like
Reactions: delboys2

leontdisx

Active Member
Mar 13, 2010
50
0
i used to work at renault and it was brilliant. i think it must be an exeter thing as every main dealership and allot of independent garages just want to take your money and then send you on saab were a briliant dealership when they were near stdavids, then they moved and they are terrible. seat i have had parts off them and they are faulty and because they wont let anyone but themselves diagnose the problem they just say its something else and charge you for the labour it took for them to look at it.
the cambelt had a squeaky tensioner on my leon and they just turned me away, time after time and i knew what it was, my local garage knew what it was as we looked, seat just kept saying it wasnt and i ended up just having to buy a belt kit again. infact seat themselves said if you wanted a good kit that exchanges on warrenty quickly, buy gates. i bought another genuine one from somewhere else in the end as i only ever use genuine but the customer care is ridiculous.

funny how my squeak has gone now and the tensioner was ready to fall apart when i took it off
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Car on a level surface, pour in oil until it starts to dribble out of the fill/level hole. Ideally use a funnel and tube from above the car (not my idea, but a good one). Capacity is apparently 2.6 litres.

The type of oil required depends on your gearbox code, unless you do a complete drain and refill. Two different types of oil have been used by the manufacturer, and they warn very specifically against mixing them: -


"There is a new mineral gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid) in accordance with TL 726 /Y. This type of oil can only be used in gearboxes where it is specified and must never be used in gearboxes that incorporate the previous oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)"

"Due to the incompatibility between these types of oils, they must never be mixed as they change the properties of the lubricant."

A while ago the following list (for 6-speed boxes) was posted:

Gearbox code and oil type -

DRP / FMP / FHA / FHT / FEK / FEL / FGT / FGV / FZM / FZP / FMQ / EFF / ERF / FMH
Gear synthetic oil API GL4 SAE 75W in accordance with standard TL 521 71 (Spare no. G 052 171 A2)


DRV / EFY / EUK
Gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W 90 in accordance with standard TL 521 57 (high performance synthetic oil)

Some five-speed boxes have the following original filling

EBD, EBF, EBJ, EBM, EBS, EGW
Oil for pinions API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)

EGR, EGS, EGV, FBK
Oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid)

Note that these oils have practically identical specifications, the same API numbers and TL standards. The only difference appears to be that the synthetic (older spec) oil is multigrade and the newer mineral oil is single-grade 75W.

It would be useful to get a more complete list, but I expect only a dealer can get hold of the information easily. In addition it would be good to know just how thorough you have to be to flush out the old oil if you have to refill with an incompatible type: will the puddles left in the corners and webs of the gearbox casting cause a problem?
 
Last edited:

mrdavies

Active Member
Jan 20, 2011
127
0
Manchester
Hi guys ive been getting a little problem with my gears .

I have crunching in most gears recently when warm , but when my car is cold the gears are perfectly smooth , but after driving for say 20 mins and the engine warms , they then become a pain in the arse and grind.

any ideas?
 

DrewCole

Spannering the Cupra
Oct 19, 2015
697
1
Braintree, Essex
Is yours the O2M box?

They can spin a bearing, which can be fixed, my friend had his sorted.
Although it lunched his box, so if yours is still running it possibly isn't that.

Have you done the shim mod at all?
 

Malice19

.:Cupra 4 The Win:.
Mar 16, 2006
519
0
Swindon
Is yours the O2M box?

They can spin a bearing, which can be fixed, my friend had his sorted.
Although it lunched his box, so if yours is still running it possibly isn't that.

Have you done the shim mod at all?

:confused: Whats the easiest way to find out which one i have?