Towbar for my Freetrack

Alibearb

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You see, that's the other thing. When the bike rack is on, the parking sensors aren't being deactivated. They constantly beep.

I bet that's not an easy fix. In the boot on the RHS pull back the boot lining by the light cluster and there should be a socket for the tow bar electrics, I guess if there is nothing in that socket they've not done it properly.
 

Cupra R

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Dec 5, 2001
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I bet that's not an easy fix. In the boot on the RHS pull back the boot lining by the light cluster and there should be a socket for the tow bar electrics, I guess if there is nothing in that socket they've not done it properly.

Thanks. I'll take a look to see if I can find anything their.

Thing is, if I access the Park Assist with VCDS, the coding feature is greyed out. This is something else that I think needs looking into.

I don't suppose you have VCDS do you Ali?
 

Alibearb

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Thanks. I'll take a look to see if I can find anything their.

Thing is, if I access the Park Assist with VCDS, the coding feature is greyed out. This is something else that I think needs looking into.

I don't suppose you have VCDS do you Ali?

No sorry I don't. Sounds very useful though. Sorry gave up DIY car mechanics when things got complicated. Only do the basic stuff now.
 

ritch_b

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Jul 27, 2012
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Oop north
Just to add to Ali's comment, the port on the light cluster is where a dedicated wiring loom should connect, but if there's nothing there then it may be that the wiring has been connected directly by tapping into the can of worms that is the CANBUS wiring by the driver's right knee; you should be able to tell if that's the case. That's an acceptable way of doing it, but a dedicated wiring loom is preferable; most fitters won't bother though.

If you have neither, I'd have to wonder if the electrics have been done by splicing into the wiring for the rear lights.

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..
 

Cupra R

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Ok. First port of call then is RHS rear cluster to check for wiring their.

Didn't the Freetrack come with Pre-installation electrics from the factory?

Under the bonnet. I have two live feeds directly from the battery. Is this correct? I can understand one but not sure of two. Each one has a different Amp fuse in too.
 

ritch_b

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Jul 27, 2012
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Oop north
As far as I know, all UK FreeTracks came pre-wired, although in reality that just means that the wiring between the CANBUS and light cluster is already there; the final piece of wiring that connects to the port is mighty expensive!

Not sure of two live feeds though. If it's wired for caravan electrics then there should be one live that goes to a split-charge relay and, in turn, powers the fridge and charges the caravan battery whilst the ignition is on. I'd assume no additional feed would be needed for the lights, but on a modern car, I wouldn't like claim to be certain!

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..
 

Cupra R

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Ok. Just looked in offside rear inspection hatch where I "think" should be the Pre installation wiring and found this

58C440F7-89BF-4B8D-B4A2-9FF474490259.jpg


If I'm correct, genuine wiring hasn't been used.

Looked into the near side inspection hatch and saw two botch locks (oh dear)

11A40AA9-B4E9-44A7-A505-869496DF38CD.jpg


Looks like I might have to look into this more than I thought I'd have to. Ideally, I'd like to have it wired into the Pre installation harness.
 

ritch_b

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Jul 27, 2012
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Oop north
Scotch-Locks really aren't the way to do it, in my humble opinion!

If you can get a loom that connects directly to the pre-wiring port, that'll be the easiest option and it'll save running wires up the full length of the vehicle.

Worth taking the extra time to do it properly!

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..
 

Cupra R

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Dec 5, 2001
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Scotch-Locks really aren't the way to do it, in my humble opinion!

If you can get a loom that connects directly to the pre-wiring port, that'll be the easiest option and it'll save running wires up the full length of the vehicle.

Worth taking the extra time to do it properly!

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..

My sentiments exactly. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
 

Cupra R

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Just to update.

I ended up buying the wiring kit I'd seen and fitted it last weekend. Happy to say everything now works as it should. What easy to do too.

Thanks again for the help.
 

ritch_b

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Jul 27, 2012
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Oop north
Can't beat a happy ending! Pleased you got it sorted in the end.

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..
 

Cupra R

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Can't beat a happy ending! Pleased you got it sorted in the end.

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..

Cheers.

I'm pleased to of got rid of the botched wiring. No indicator bleeping with this new setup. Just an extra light flashes on the cluster. The rear parking sensors now get omitted too when the towbar is used.
 

mike55

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May 31, 2010
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Freetrack towbar

On the subject of the reverse sensors not deactivating. I had the same issue. I fitted the Seat branded tow bar and genuine electrics. Everything worked at plug in except the reverse park sensor de-activation. I put up with it until the car needed a service. When I took it to the dealer at service time they told me it was missing a part. I enquired what and they said it was the tow bar electric module. I showed them the missing module in the side wing space which they had not seen before as it is only fitted to the Freetrack as standard.

The then re plugged the car onto the computer and found the deactivation was not switched in the cars ECU. Several attempt still failed and I noticed the script on screen referred to a DSG gearbox. As soon as this was switched to a manual gearbox everything worked ok. Apparently if you have fitter a non genuine electric kit the full functionality of the car is unlikely to work.

Hope this is of assistance.

regards Mike
 

falcon7

Active Member
Jan 31, 2014
54
0
North Devon
Being retired and a bit of a DIY bod I bought a towbar for my Altea with 7 pin electrics on EBAY for £104. It was a bit of a bu99er to fit though, well the fitting was easy, it was the dismantling and re-assembly of the whole rear end bodywork that took the time.
Rusty screws with security heads didn't help much either.
PM me for the one that I bought,( not allowed to post a URL).
It came from towbars4cars.
It is very very strong and well designed with everything I needed in the kit.
I can thoroughly recommend the seller, they have a big stock of different types available, many with a detachable ball hitch.
You do need plenty of time to fit it as the car is unusable the whole time, it's useful to have a second pair of hands for some of the time too.
If you can get a garage to fit one in 4 hours it would be money well spent though.
 

falcon7

Active Member
Jan 31, 2014
54
0
North Devon
Scotch-Locks really aren't the way to do it, in my humble opinion!

If you can get a loom that connects directly to the pre-wiring port, that'll be the easiest option and it'll save running wires up the full length of the vehicle.

Worth taking the extra time to do it properly!

..:: I started off with nothing; I still have most of it left ::..

:confused: Is the 'wiring port' within the access hatch on the rear offside?

Is it a plug and socket arrangement, or terminal block?

Where might I find a wiring schematic or list of wire colours?

Fitted the towbar but not found wiring loom? to connect to yet.

Found the photo in this thread, so all I need is connection details now.(and a socket)
 
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falcon7

Active Member
Jan 31, 2014
54
0
North Devon
Back to the Scotch-locks idea as there's no plug or socket on my 56 plate reference sport so I'm still looking for wiring loom colour code info.
Do I really need to buy a workshop manual to find it?
 
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