Catch Can

[Dan FR]

Improved flow? i wonder if it was causing crankcase pressure issues? Is that for the little one for when you have the cannister in place?

Well i've done around 50 miles since i unblocked the N80 valve yesterday and cleared the fault code. Everything including my fuel trims read normal, no adverse affects so far and no code (and therefore no EML)

My conversion plate is here, just waiting on my 19mm oil pipe, hoping it'll be here tomorrow

 

[Joshkcupra]

I installed my forge catch can today, it's a cracking bit of kit. Easy to install and looks nice under the hood. Took the car for a spin, and had a quick look inside the can, looks like alot of water vapour in there already.

 

[Dan FR]

I should hope so at that price!!

Fitted mine last Friday, along with refitting the carbon canister following a few issues that arose shortly after my last post. Owes me £130 all in. Bargain

 

[Joshkcupra]

The forge cables don't sweat, and come all braided with special end clamps, hopefully protect our valves

 

[Dopedpanda]

The forge cables don't sweat, and come all braided with special end clamps, hopefully protect our valves

Multiple tests show little to no difference in valve build up even with "top" of the art cans.

There are only 2 things that helps this problem;

1: Manual cleaning
2: Some sort of fluid washing over the valves, either by port injection (expensive solution) or water-meth injection (also an expensive way of doing it)

Catch cans only really help on the small intercooler/pipe oil accumulation, the main culprit of valve build up is the missing cooling of petrol flowing over it (port injection) and the small amount of oil seeping through the valve seams.

Its not like its a "new" problem, it has just been reserved to diesels before DI petrol engines, and some manufacturs have even added catch cans themself from factory to no help.

VAG´s solution? Buy a new EA888 Gen. 3 engine, it has both direct and port injection...... didn´t take long for VAG to figure that one out, eh?

 

[cupra.al]

danfr do you have a picture of the setup you are running?
I have been looking into a catch can kit/pcv delete kit as i dont want my engine recycling all that crap it dont need and end up backing up on the valves.
Ive seen that IE do a valve cover that leaves you with one single outlet on the cam cover to install a catch can eurojet also have there own alternative.
im not sure if these cam covers offer more than the catch can kits or pcv delete kits other than giving a nice lump of alloy on top of the engine.
my thoughts were maybe they do as they do away with the rear pcv on the cam cover as well which will stop more oil ending up on the valves.

if this is the case im wondering about maybe blocking off the rear pcv at the turbo and cam cover then having a catch can with a breather on top which will stop crankcase pressures running off the front pcv.
is there a kit out there that can do all of this and hopefully eliminate or slow down the coking of the valves?

 

[Big Lee M]

I'm running a CTS catch can I ordered it through PSI tuning, it's a brilliant bit of kit. This kit doesn't block the PCV valve off on the turbo. I don't think there is a kit that does that to be honest.

 

[sambryant]

Catch cans on these motors cause more harm than good. I was running the 42 draft catch can and it would cause excessive crankcase pressure and cause the car to smoke after long idle time. Removed the can and fitted a nice new pcv and the car was 10x better for it.

 

[cupra.al]

Catch cans on these motors cause more harm than good. I was running the 42 draft catch can and it would cause excessive crankcase pressure and cause the car to smoke after long idle time. Removed the can and fitted a nice new pcv and the car was 10x better for it.

was it a sealed catch can though?
with a breather filter on top of the catch can surely this would relieve the crankcase pressure i know it would create a smell but this can be sorted easy enough.
i really want to try and find a way of eliminating the valves from getting scummy or at least slow it down and i dont want to run extra injectors.

 

[sambryant]

I ran it recirculating and to atmosphere. Both had negative effects. Wmi is the best prevention but will need a manual clean first.

 

[cupra.al]

I ran it recirculating and to atmosphere. Both had negative effects. Wmi is the best prevention but will need a manual clean first.

wmi dont seem to do much if any cleaning on the backs of the valves from what i can tell is its merely a vapour by the time it gets near the valves and does as much cleaning as the fuel
theres got to be some sort of solution to not be dumping all that crap back into the engine.

 

[sambryant]

Fuel doesn't run through the valves on tfsi lol
As I say wmi will keep the valves clean, but a manual clean is required first.

 

[cupra.al]

Fuel doesn't run through the valves on tfsi lol
As I say wmi will keep the valves clean, but a manual clean is required first.

I know fuel doesnt run through the valves thats my point.
i keep reading a lot conflicting opinions about wmi cleaning the tfsi valves.
check post 99 http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/preventing-carbon-build-up-2-0-tfsi.217234/page-3

 

[sambryant]

It won't remove carbon build up, hence the initial clean needs to be done by hand with the inlet manifold off. Once clean the water in the wmi will maintain the valves.
The valves will get hot and the water will steam on contact and act like a steam clean.

 

[cupra.al]

It won't remove carbon build up, hence the initial clean needs to be done by hand with the inlet manifold off. Once clean the water in the wmi will maintain the valves.
The valves will get hot and the water will steam on contact and act like a steam clean.

only when the wmi is engaged though which means for it to stay clean would need to drive on boost all the time otherwise like you say it wont clean the build up of carbon so will still end up with a build up of carbon.
for it to stay clean you would need wmi as soon as the throttle is touched without any boost i believe.

 

[sambryant]

Takes a long time to build up. Depends how you drive, but the majority of people who modify there car will allow there cars to boost.

 

[cupra.al]

Takes a long time to build up. Depends how you drive, but the majority of people who modify there car will allow there cars to boost.

dont get me wrong i can see the benefits to wmi and i will end up using it sooner or later but wmi wont stop the build up which is what i would ideally like to remedy.

 

[Joshkcupra]

I'm thinking of removing mine to be honest, it causes a really bad petrol smell to emit from the car, and when I'm stationary I just get wafts of petrol and oil in the cabin. Waste of money!

 

[Dan FR]

Mines great sealed setup, no smells, no smoke and it amazes me the amount of water/condensation/oily gunk it catches

I have the 42DD plate, available from Awesome, and 19mm pipes to my baffled can. Can grab some pictures tomorrow of needed, just got in from fitting my WMI kit at last

 

[Cupra Ross]

If you fit one for engine bay bling, fair enough. Just so long as nobody is under the illusion that it's actually keeping the back of your valves clean, because it isn't. This is the biggest problem on the TFSi and the only sure fire fix, is to have the manifold off and clean the valves manually. WMI may help, but as has been said, it only works when the valves are already clean.