my new tdi cupra

slugmaster100

Active Member
Jan 25, 2014
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You will always get marks as soon as you press the brakes. If you fit brand new discs and pads, you need to bed the brakes in a little to get full contact across the face of the pad but that doesn't take very long. The taper is only on the leading and trailing edges and about 80%+ of the pad face is completely flat for main contact between disc and pad. I'll take a couple of pics of new genuine pads tomorrow if you like
 

Adam4D

Active Member
Oct 2, 2011
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peterborough/cambridgeshire
Your pad carriers are probably rusty where the pads fit.

Best way I found is when changing pads use a metal file to chip off the rust and then flatten the carrier off best as poss on all pad contacting points, don't go mental tho or the pads will be loose and rattle. Just enough to keep them free moving when they get hot n expand but not enough they slop about.
 

supersticky

Active Member
Dec 16, 2010
1,014
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taunton somerset
Yo peeps, opinions please, too shiny?

Standard
320da5d1931254b277f3dbb82c13e5a0.jpg


Sprayed
bd8ea0e9c78a44fb56f3c330f45b43d7.jpg


Thanks :)
 

aceman

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May 6, 2002
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West Yorkshire
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I tell you what I have noticed. When I first start the car and drive it, it seems ages for turbo to start working like a good minute or so.. I was told this was normal by a friend is this true?

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Hey Moody did you find out why yours isn't boosting first thing as I am getting the same thing and it is whistling/whooshing when coming on boost too which I notice you also mention. I am leaning toward egr pipe problems but haven't had chance to check mine out but will do an egr pipe block off shortly so that should eliminate it if that is the problem.

supersticky this is a nice thread and I have been enthralled reading it, your car looks great with some subtle mods hope to do some to mine too at some point.:)
 
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slugmaster100

Active Member
Jan 25, 2014
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Hi Aceman,
Mine has recently started doing the same thing. It started off just in 1st gear and by the time i changed to 2nd it was fine. It's got gradually worse over the last few weeks to being about 0.2 - 0.4 miles before it sorts itself out.

I did some research and apparently it can be the turbo variable vanes that are gunked up and sticking. There are a few youtube vids using mr muscle foaming oven cleaner to sort it.

I've got some cleaner but not had chance to do it yet. I'll be doing it in the next couple of weeks i think but will update with the results.
 

KebabWarrior81

Active Member
Nov 4, 2013
1,841
3
Sandbach,Cheshire
It will be the turbo vanes same thing happened to my Mk1 Cupra.As Slugmaster has cleaner this would be the first step if that doesn't do the trick they can be reconditioned but dependant on how long you wish to keep the car might make more sense to source a new one.
 
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moody1972

Active Member
Jan 16, 2014
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Hey Moody did you find out why yours isn't boosting first thing as I am getting the same thing and it is whistling/whooshing when coming on boost too which I notice you also mention. I am leaning toward egr pipe problems but haven't had chance to check mine out but will do an egr pipe block off shortly so that should eliminate it if that is the problem.

supersticky this is a nice thread and I have been enthralled reading it, your car looks great with some subtle mods hope to do some to mine too at some point.:)
Hi aceman. . Yeh as others have said turbo was gunked up and I did clean it with Mr muscle and had been great since.. I still get whooshing sound which I still think isn't normal but have learnt to live with it lol, maybe in summer I will have another look..
 

aceman

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May 6, 2002
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Cheers guys, I will do the Mr Muscle job when I do the egr delete with the blanking plates but if all else fails I do have a replacement turbo lined up. I have been out in it this morning and the whistle/whoosh doesn't seem as bad but I am just a little paranoid about the turbo self destructing as this happened to a mate with a 140PD.
 

supersticky

Active Member
Dec 16, 2010
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taunton somerset
Cheers guys, I will do the Mr Muscle job when I do the egr delete with the blanking plates but if all else fails I do have a replacement turbo lined up. I have been out in it this morning and the whistle/whoosh doesn't seem as bad but I am just a little paranoid about the turbo self destructing as this happened to a mate with a 140PD.
Thanks for the comments mate, still loving my car, does everything I ask of it. About yours and your mates turbo, ever since I've owned my car its been very loud, to a point I can't hear the engine over the turbo, by chance the other day I stopped by a seat sport lorry to have a look and got chatting to the driver and he was kind enough to have a spin in my car, straight away he told me, the turbo is fine but needs a good clean but the main issue is that I have a boost leak. So a can of Mr muscle a bottle of fairy a torch and about 5hrs I should be sorted. He told me of it happens again (leak) then just bite the bullet and buy a hard pipe kit. Good luck with yours mate and please keep us posted on if the muscle clean helps at all. Cheers.
 

slugmaster100

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Jan 25, 2014
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Just a quick Mr muscle update.... Brilliant! Removed the down pipe, then sprayed in Mr muscle and worked the actuator every 20 mins for about 4 hours and it's like a new car. Power build up and smoothness of power delivery is massively improved, lack of boost from cold has gone and so has some whistley waste gate type noises. Can't recommend it enough for £5!
 

aceman

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May 6, 2002
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I attempted to remove the egr pipe at the manifold end the other weekend but access is extremely tight and had to give up. Managed to block the egr off at the other end and cleaned the egr valve out which was so clogged up it was unbelievable, this has restored some driveability but I have found I can induce limp mode if I rev beyond 4k so I am sure I need to do the same and do the mr muscle job.

Does anyone have any tips on getting the egr pipe off at the exhaust side either that or I will have to rake the downpipe off like you have slumaster.
 

slugmaster100

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Jan 25, 2014
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I took the down pipe off and sprayed through the turbine vanes as it was the easiest to get to.... But I did have the luxury of a ramp. I found that the vacuum actuator went from moving about 1cm at the beginning to about 5cm afterwards
 

aceman

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May 6, 2002
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Yes I think I will have to do it the same way and get mine up on my car ramps. Will do an oil change while I am at it too might as well kill two birda with one stone as they say. ;)
 
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