LC 180, Combination of poss related issues

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
So,

Thought i would start a new thread on this as adding to originals doesnt seem to be sparking many minds that im sure have had this problem before.

I've searched the forum alot over the past two months to find a solution and it seems many people have had similar problems but no-one has posted a solution, threads just go cold.

The car's symptoms in order of appearance:

*Hesitation around 1000-2000 rpm in 1st 2nd and sometimes (but rarely) 3rd. always on part throttle.

*Temp gauge mis reading, fluctuating between 60-75, sometimes sits at 90 when engine under load

*Engine oil light came on 3 months ago, checked oil, was very low so topped up.

*Yesterday car wasnt happy being started after being left for a few minutes, sounded flooded, when it did start it sat at 2k for a minute before settling. Once moving was fine but with its normal hesitation.

*Today the TCS light came on on route to work. Switched ignition off and on which cleared it, drove it at lunch today a couple miles light hasnt re-appeared.


Early on in the fault find process i found my crank case breather was in two pieces so i have replaced with an aftermarket silicone replacement, i have also changed the coolant temp sensor which made a difference for a couple days before resulting back to its usual behaviour.

I've read a hunch about the oil filler cap failing under pressure and i have noticed oil stain on the cam cover (i assumed it was the previous owner not doing a clean job in servicing/topping it up) can anyone back this up?

Does anyone have any ideas? I love the car, but its doing my head in!

Thanks in advance
 

scott180

Active Member
Aug 13, 2014
434
0
portsmouth
+1 on the thermostat. I had same issue and due to the stat it was over fueling causing the flooded like starting. Hesitation could be boost/vac leak. Any luck on the fault reader?
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
+1 on the thermostat. I had same issue and due to the stat it was over fueling causing the flooded like starting. Hesitation could be boost/vac leak. Any luck on the fault reader?

Thanks Scott, ordered reader so will check when it arrives.
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
Ok so ive received my code reader and the following codes have come up:

17704 P1296 Cooling system malfunction
16486 P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input

This was with the ignition on but without engine running which i imagine is the correct way to check for codes?

So would that translate to thermostat and MAF?
 

the parrot

Active Member
Feb 19, 2014
113
0
Ireland
id do the thermostat then clear a maf fault can be miss diagnoised and a breather system leak as well. you could find the pcv/ prv system is faulty and causing these problems
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
Ok thanks, i've cleared the codes now so will be interesting to see if the MAF one does come back. Would the car operate different if the problem was fixed but the code not cleared? or does it not work like that.
 

traumapat

Leon Cupra IHI
Jul 24, 2005
5,925
4
sunny sussex
smoke test , ring garages to see if they have the kit.

Stat and Maf as you say by the sound of it. You could try unplugging the maf and taking it for a short drive. usually if the sensors knackered the car will run better without it as the ecu reverts to a safe set of parameters rather than using the info of the dying sensor.
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
Thanks, and this is just called a smoke test? I'll see if my local garage does it.
I'll unplug the maf and drive home tonight from work to see what its like, about 15miles
 

dazjstuart

Active Member
May 18, 2012
660
8
Aberdeen
As others have said, temperature issue is probably the thermostat, outside chance it could be the coolant temperature sensor (CTS) which would give starting and idling issues also. Hesitation could be the MAF, might also be plugs, coils. My one used to hate starting in the cold, used to splutter and cough until you gave it a good boot up, new plugs and cleaning the throttle body sorted that (did them at the same time so don't know which one cured it). Boost / vac / PCV leaks can cause any number of issues on these things, my breather pipe split but it didn't seem to be causing any issues and when I replaced it I didn't notice any difference but it makes a night and day difference on some folks cars.

Hows the oil level looking now if you topped it up 3 months ago? Using a bit of oil is nothing to be alarmed at, especially now since the newest MK1s are pushing 10yrs old, mine takes a bit, probably around an additional litre of oil over the course of a year, unless you are having to top it up weekly then I wouldn't be worried.
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
Thanks, I've changed the coolant sensor so hopefully thats that covered. Its difficult to physically check for leaks myself and im struggling to find a garage that can smoke test it, all i can do is keep ringing around until i find someone that can.

Oil level was fine two weeks ago, will check today to see if its changed. I've also picked up a new oil cap as i'm worried its leaking from there due to the stains on the cam cover.
 
Last edited:

jt20vt

Active Member
Sep 17, 2010
185
41
The fault codes point to bad maf and failing coolant temp sender or thermostat. Now you've cleared the codes and changed the coolant sensor have you had any codes come back?
 

LouisAUQ

Active Member
Jul 27, 2014
75
0
So, cleared the codes earlier. Started the car to go home and it turned over normal then ran dog rough, tried to die so had to keep it running with the throttle for probably 10 seconds. Pulled away lumpy straight on to dual carriage way once settled at 40 seemed fine. In fact it ran perfectly for the whole 17miles home.
With the heater off temp stayed pretty much on 90 or there abouts except when coasting/downhill.
Parked up and checked codes, no codes detected.
Still sounding like thermostat and leak/MAF to me?



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