150PD ARL zero boost when cold

[aceman]

Hi guys,

I wonder if anyone could answer me a question, I have a 2004 Toledo Sport with the PD150 ARL engine which I have had for just over a month or so and since it has dropped really cold in the last week or so I have noticed an unusual lack of performance when pulling away first thing in the morning. Basically it feels there is little or no boost where I can plant my foot to the floor and it gently pulls up the Rev range with no usual surge from 1500 rpm when the turbo usually spools up. There is no jerkiness and is perfectly smooth and after a couple of minutes once a little warmth gets in the engine the turbo spools up fine. There are no EML lights although I haven't checked for any logged codes but I am wondering if this is a feature of this engine where the ECU deliberately holds back the engine when cold until it reaches temperature and this is a normal characteristic of this engine.

The wife has an Ibiza Sport with the PD100 and I can't say I have experienced this phenomenon when I have driven it so seems a little strange but I am open to being educated so any advice appreciated.

 

[cheshire cat]

Hi guys,

since it has dropped really cold --- where I can plant my foot to the floor )

it's trying to tell you something never race a cold engine

 

[aceman]

I never do it's just something I noticed so I tried pushing the accelerator a little more where you would expect it to pull and it is definitely holding back. Just wonderred if this is a documented safety featurw of this engine as it is a pretty good thing if so.

 

[Tessitura]

Nah its just a case of it not being warm, so fuel isnt being combusted at the optimum temperature, i think the ecu normally adds more fuel in at lower engine temps to compensate, thats why youll see 20mpg before the engine warms up.

Also things like the oil is thicker when its cold, so the engine runs abit stiff untill its lubricated properly by nice warm oil.

Short story with a diesel is, dont rag it until its warm!

 

[Pimped up vario]

Do a log of the maf sensor. It will be 80% of the current power output. You don't have to rag it, google power graphs and see what they make at 2000 rpm. It may be about 100 bhp meaning the log should read about 80mg/s. It takes about 30 seconds for the engine oil to reach the cam journals and the upper parts of the engine. The glow plugs are used when engine temperatures and ambient temperatures are low to assist combustion. The engine shouldn't typically feel that much more sluggish when cold.

 

[aceman]

Thanks guys, the general consensus from other guys who have experienced this from talking with them in another thread in the Leon section is that the VNT mechanism is sticking and I need to do a Mr Muscle job so that is on the cards along with an egr delete with the blanking plates. Failing that I have a replacement turbo lined up as I am also getting some whistle/whoosh when on boost albeit I can only hear it with the windows down.

 

[S10EAT]

Thanks guys, the general consensus from other guys who have experienced this from talking with them in another thread in the Leon section is that the VNT mechanism is sticking and I need to do a Mr Muscle job so that is on the cards along with an egr delete with the blanking plates. Failing that I have a replacement turbo lined up as I am also getting some whistle/whoosh when on boost albeit I can only hear it with the windows down.

Aceman,

Before you go ahead and replace the turbo it's not necessarily the vnt mech, as others have mentioned above, the engine will not produce max power until properly warmed up, nothing you can do about this it's just a characteristic of the engine.

You can check the VNT mech fairly easily by removing the air intake to maf pipe and putting your arm down the back of the engine and pushing down on the actuator, should move smoothly and completely to the stop, if it doesn't budge at all or has stiff points, then do the mr muscle treatment.

Also, a little whistle/whoosh on boost is nothing unusual and perfectly normal for the PD150 depending on your air intake and intercooler pipe setup, you will have some of the turbo noise reverberate through the pipes, on this subject do you have the aluminium turbo intake pipe or the plastic later one, exhaust standard?

Once your car is warmed up is it boosting like it should? Would be a good idea to create some logs of MAF and MAP sensors to get a better idea of how the turbo is running.

S10EAT

 

[aceman]

Thanks for the reply S10EAT much appreciated.

I found the main problem was an almost totally blocked up EGR with sooted oily crap, cleaned it out and the no boost when cold has almost all but gone. I do however still need to clean the turbo as I have found when the engine is warm and I boot it past 4k I can induce limp mode so need to get that done. Any tips on removing the egr pipe at the exhaust manifold end as I found access very tight and gave up so need to have another go. I have blanked off the egr at the valve end but want to do it at the other end too as I think I might have a cracked Pipe at that end either that or I am getting paranoid

I have the plastic induction pipe, what difference does that make good or bad ?

Cheers,