110TDI Thread

[GrantCarter]

Thanks, I'll get some pictures up soon hopefully! This is very useful info, I'll have to look into this then. Do you have any experience with changing side to front mount inter cooler, I'm keen to do this for the performance and aesthetics.

 

[d.mccarthy16]

It's not worth changing out the standard intercooler unless you're running high boost as you'll just increase turbo lag with no power gain. With a fmic you increase the distance the pressurised air has from the turbo to the intake ports, as a result when the turbo spools up it takes longer to pressurise the whole system. In a nutshell turbo lag is the time it takes for the turbo to build pressure in the boost piping. Oil tends to collect in the intercoolers from the CCV which insulates the fins and reduces its ability to cool the air. If you remove the intercooler and clean it out with a solvent like petrol it should help a bit. Rerouting the CCV to a catch can or atmosphere will stop oil collecting there again. If you were to take out the intercooler and drain it you'd probably only get a shot glass worth out of it but alot still remains inside as oil in its nature is designed to cling to metal so it's always a good idea to flush it out! A decat or a full straight through exhaust is a great mod, it allows the turbo to spool up quicker so that reduces some of the lag. The economy also increases marginally on normal driving since the turbo doesn't have to work as hard as before.

 

[GrantCarter]

I see! Excellent explanation d.mccarth16 as I have been struggling for info on the subject. I'll flush it out then, I had noticed the oily pipes and inter cooler 'dripping'. I'll have to have a look for a catch can guide then.
Well as I plan to fit the LCR bumpers I've bought I might aswell do an exhaust upgrade too. Am I right in thinking a straight through won't be horrifically noisy and fail an MOT?

 

[Israar]

I typically log block 01 (rpm, IQ, pump voltage, coolant temp), block 04 (rpm, requested injection timing, actual injection timing, n75 duty cycle) and block 010 (MAF, ambient air pressure, MAP pressure, engine load).

To do a log enter the measuring blocks module in engine, select the blocks you want to log and then click the log button at the bottom. By default it saves it in C-Ross Tech-Logs. If you want to email me some logs I could graph some values if you like and in future you could just copy and paste in new values and it'd update the graphs automatically

For some strange reason, maybe because it's been a while of me coming on here or not, not 100% sure notifications haven't come through to my email!

Anyway, sorry for the mega late response!

Next time I get the laptop out, I'll give this a whirl and get back to you with what I have, I appreciate the tips and the help too, always appreciated!

Well the smic hasn't been removed from my old asv more or less fully stripped engine bay now though. A friend fitted it for me before going to attempt it my self since this past week I have done lots I thought I would never be able to do . Pretty confident I'll be able to do it I'll take pictures and let you know how I get on.

And Lee I paid £400 sterling for it lad wanted a lot more but the car wasn't working correctly and the suspension was ropey to say the least, was pretty much a lemon until it received some much needed TLC.

Hosed out all the head today and flushed coolant system completely, full of rust clearly not been looked after. Replaced thermostat guessing from the rusty water I suspected it wouldn't be in the best condition best to change it for the price.

And the power is unbelievable Mate not sure what it's running at the minute but I'm pretty sure it's over the 110 mark I'm going to fit the smic, air filter, .216 injector nozzles then take it for a dyno and maybe a remap if necessary I'll let you know what it's putting out. Won't be for a couple of weeks now still using my golf PD at the minute to get about (hate it ) lol couple of weeks I'll put her on road permanently .

The mods so far are full Ss cobra exhaust with back box and decat from turbo, whistles beautifully and I haven't deleted the egr yet .

All in all I'm really happy got a bargain as I had my dead car and a dying car now I have a Phoenix haha and cost is minimal as most the work I am doing my self .

Not sure if this is allowed but I am breaking this car and anything I don't need I would happily donate to someone in need

Aye, definitely let me know how you get on with the change and I bet it was a grand weight off your chest having your mate strip the bay for you! With it being in good hands and all!

Haha, I don't blame you mate, at least you got a nice bargain plus with having your old one you could replace all the necessary things to make a much smoother runner!

I got mine Dyno'd too, first run 115, surprised me as I was in belief it was running less due to it's age, to say I was happy is an understatement I was over the moon it pulled 115, 113 then 110

Once you're up and running properly would be nice to see your Dyno results! -- Sorry if I'm being rude, what SMIC have you gone for again? I'm not sure what I want to do concerning my induction kit, as for the nozzels how much of a difference does the .216 ones make over the .205? Haha, hatred for the golf is real lmfao!

EGR definitely needs to go, I'll have to have a gander at this SS Cobra exhaust with back box and decat from turbo, I was recommended to try out BCS personally by KebabWarrior, just not 100% sure on what I want with the exhaust system yet or whats legal for my car haha! Though mines on hold for now as I've not got any funds to through at it at present!

I think if you do donate you'd have to do it in the PM or the for sale area on the forums, let me know what you're thinking of getting rid of as I might have to pinch a few things hehe!

Yes! 110s everywhere, glad I'm not the only one.

I bought my '03 110 SE on 72000 now about 95000 and loving it.

No mods as yet but I'm collecting bits, so far I've only got:

Cupra R front+ rear bumpers - with inserts etc
Guides/brackets for fitting

But I plan to fit a front mount at the same time as the bumper swap. I have been thinking about EGR delete but I'm still not 100% sure about it, any advice greatly received .

As d.mccarthy16 stated; EGR delete most definitely! Will help prevent your turbo going to the clappers like mine did. (Major build up of carbon which caused sticky vanes)

There's actually more than I thought which is nice too!

Where did you get your Cupra R bumpers if you don't mind me asking with the guides and inserts, etc. ? I'd like the Cupra R kit myself as it's beautiful!

I noticed d.mccarthy16 said not to go FMIC, other than increasing turbo lag isn't FMIC a needed mod for Stage 2? Though if only going to Stage 1 SMIC is more than fine from what I know of!

Also, welcome aboard mate!

--Lee

 

[GrantCarter]

Please ignore my huge grin but I was about to go on holiday

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Did enjoy driving these roads!

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Anyone have a link to a decent (not killer expensive) EGR delete kit? I have seen 'upgraded' SMI kits, 63mm? Any thoughts?

Thanks, Lee, finally a car forum with decent advice/people!

I bought them from eBay, also brackets from a dealer on eBay too.

 

[d.mccarthy16]

I noticed d.mccarthy16 said not to go FMIC, other than increasing turbo lag isn't FMIC a needed mod for Stage 2? Though if only going to Stage 1 SMIC is more than fine from what I know of!

Also, welcome aboard mate!

--Lee[/QUOTE]

I said I wouldn't go for a FMIC unless running high boost, a stage 2 tune would be high boost so I'd definitely recommend it for that! For what they are the intercoolers work very well, same with the standard air intake which is good up to 200 bhp if I remember correctly. It's great that there are so many VE Seats on here and nice clean examples too! Here in Ireland their aren't that many and most of them are wrecked! I spent about 3 months looking for the right Toledo and in the end had to travel 3 hours to Northern Ireland to buy it and it's originally an English car! The paintwork on English cars is always so well kept! It's such a shame that people don't have the same attitude to looking after their cars here.

 

[d.mccarthy16]

I see! Excellent explanation d.mccarth16 as I have been struggling for info on the subject. I'll flush it out then, I had noticed the oily pipes and inter cooler 'dripping'. I'll have to have a look for a catch can guide then.
Well as I plan to fit the LCR bumpers I've bought I might aswell do an exhaust upgrade too. Am I right in thinking a straight through won't be horrifically noisy and fail an MOT?

I shouldn't think so. I've a straight through on mine and it's not that loud at all to be honest. When you get over about 3000 rpm it gets a bit louder but below that it's fine.

 

[GrantCarter]

Ah okay then, I'll have to find a straight through! I've seen some on the dreaded eBay but I'd question the quality!

I'm surprised to hear of the lack of 'car love' over there!! It's bad news, it does mean we get good cars here though

 

[d.mccarthy16]

Ah okay then, I'll have to find a straight through! I've seen some on the dreaded eBay but I'd question the quality!

I'm surprised to hear of the lack of 'car love' over there!! It's bad news, it does mean we get good cars here though

Just make one using the standard exhaust. Drop out the downpipe, cut a slot out of the cat and mash out the inside with a piece of rebar and a hammer then weld it back up. After that just do a mufflerectomy and replace the backbox with a straight section of 57mm mild steel pipe and have a nice stainless tip on the back. There's no performance advantage to having stainless it just looks prettier.

 

[Israar]

I said I wouldn't go for a FMIC unless running high boost, a stage 2 tune would be high boost so I'd definitely recommend it for that! For what they are the intercoolers work very well, same with the standard air intake which is good up to 200 bhp if I remember correctly. It's great that there are so many VE Seats on here and nice clean examples too! Here in Ireland their aren't that many and most of them are wrecked! I spent about 3 months looking for the right Toledo and in the end had to travel 3 hours to Northern Ireland to buy it and it's originally an English car! The paintwork on English cars is always so well kept! It's such a shame that people don't have the same attitude to looking after their cars here.

Ahh, I see

I personally don't know what gets done when you get a remap to be honest, apart from gaining more available power from Stage 1 and 2, I don't know anything as to how and what is done so I never knew that Stage 2 was a high boost remap haha!

I keep humming and arring over Stage 1 and Stage 2, Stage 1 is a definite for being done, though I keep tossing with the idea about going Stage 2, though I'm not 100% sure on whether I will or not yet...

Stage 1 I should be fine to keep my standard SMIC, without the need to upgrade it right, though I intend on doing the wheel arch mod to aid it a little bit hehe! Though say I do go Stage 2 and have to upgrade to FMIC, I don't want to lose my fog lights, most people just get rid anyway, I quite like the idea of having and keeping the front fogs regardless of it being a hindrance to performance!

@GrantCarter -- Good pictures mate, always nice to see someone smiling rather than the usual blank face expression haha!

Quick question, how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking for the kit? What price range would you say is worth it? I'm finding various prices and various locations to ship too, so not sure if they are genuine or not. If you still have the links to where you purchased would there be any chance I could snag the links from you please?

--Lee

 

[GrantCarter]

@Lee

Thanks aha, I'll get some more soon for when I do the bumper swap. It needs a darn good clean though.

I was pretty lucky as I got both for £75!!! It's not an oem set, but I'm totally cool with that as it was so cheap. There are sets on eBay from Poland which look like the same ones

I have two questions though:

1)Oil catch can - 15mm inlet/outlet holes will be fine won't they?

2)My key fob no longer remotely unlocks the car. If I manually unlock then hit lock button windows come down all round, so I guess it's still connected? Really baffled by it.

 

[Israar]

Haha no worries Grant

Ooo, nice! Yeah I've seen 2 or so with dispatch from Poland, though majority of the Genuine ones are damaged, so not sure what I'll do yet concerning that as I want some other things done before changing the body kit hehe!

I can't honestly tell you anything concerning the oil catch can, aside from that I believe I don't have one installed in mine personally, at least I believe I don't have one!

As for the key fob, I only do 2 presses for all doors unlock and 2 presses for all doors to lock, I don't know any of the key combinations for the car... So unless someone clued up about it comes around I'm guessing you're slightly stuck with that one, if I recall correctly I'm sure LEE69 know's his stuff concerning the key fobs? Don't quote me on this though I just have a hunch I've read somewhere on here with him helping concerning this kind of thing!

--Lee

 

[d.mccarthy16]

@Lee

Thanks aha, I'll get some more soon for when I do the bumper swap. It needs a darn good clean though.

I was pretty lucky as I got both for £75!!! It's not an oem set, but I'm totally cool with that as it was so cheap. There are sets on eBay from Poland which look like the same ones

I have two questions though:

1)Oil catch can - 15mm inlet/outlet holes will be fine won't they?

2)My key fob no longer remotely unlocks the car. If I manually unlock then hit lock button windows come down all round, so I guess it's still connected? Really baffled by it.

That's great value! Do you have a link for the ebay ones? I was after a front bumper and skirts for my Toledo. 15 mm is too small, diesels have very high compression so be very careful with the catch can. I'd only go with a reputable one made for a tdi from Darkside or someone like that. It has to be the same size as the CCV puck outlet on the valve cover. It's 19mm if I remember right, I just have reinforced PVC pipe on mine venting to atmosphere. A lot of people think this leads to oil vapour being vented into the atmosphere but it actually doesn't. The standard CCV doesn't work very well and the vacuum of air in the intake pipe actually sucks oil vapours into the intake, with it vented to atmosphere it mostly vents excess pressure with the occasional bit of steam The key issue might be due to the CCM, it'd be worth checking with VCDS.

 

[GrantCarter]

Well I've seen you've done the door seals mod, which I'm working next . Getting the bumpers next week so I'll get plenty of pictures up!

I'm also going to be installing a catch can, fed up with oily intercooler!!

 

[F2 Ed]

Put mine on the rollers at the weekend. 120bhp & 211ft/lb

Previous owner told me it was mapped but I didn't believe him as it felt stock & he had no evidence. Also it doesn't blow any smoke when you boot it. EGR is deleted though and not fault codes so maybe been mapped out. Maybe just a rubbish map from a man in a van with a laptop.

Planning on .216 injectors and clutch to match soon. Darkside developments organic one hold 300fl/lb

 

[Israar]

Maybe rubbish map but a few people also mention that it could also likely be the internals of the car too that have restricted it from anything higher?

Best bet would be to go somewhere reputable then you can know for sure what it was down too!

When you do clutch are you not replacing DMF? I've read it's always best to do DMF and Clutch together though I could be wrong haha!

What power are you looking to get on yours? You're running about 5bhp and 20ft/lb ~ more than me and mines bog standard

How much of a difference would the .216 injectors make?

--Lee

 

[F2 Ed]

Yes, the clutch kit comes with a flat flywheel.
.216 nozzles on a stock engine see 120bhp but up to 155bhp when mapped. Stock clutch won't handle that. Bigger turbo needed to go higher.

 

[F2 Ed]

Maybe rubbish map but a few people also mention that it could also likely be the internals of the car too that have restricted it from anything higher?

Mailed the guys at REVO and they said their stage 1 map starts at 125bhp & 203lb/ft so shouldn't be concerned. Also said all these mappers quoting 145bhp are talking rubbish

 

[Israar]

Yes, the clutch kit comes with a flat flywheel.
.216 nozzles on a stock engine see 120bhp but up to 155bhp when mapped. Stock clutch won't handle that. Bigger turbo needed to go higher.

Ahh, I see

What would stock nozzles see when mapped? Also, what's the safest maximum a stock clutch can handle?

Mailed the guys at REVO and they said their stage 1 map starts at 125bhp & 203lb/ft so shouldn't be concerned. Also said all these mappers quoting 145bhp are talking rubbish

So sounds like yours is spot on really from what you're told, is that generic map or custom map? Or does it pretty much stay the same for both as I plan on a custom stage 1 map being done from Bill at Badger5, just won't be doing it any time soon as I don't have the funds for it.

Haha, I like the last part of your sentence!

--Lee

 

[F2 Ed]

stock nozzles can map to 130 area. I heard stock clutch won't last long if you get near 250lb/ft

I think my map is a cheap generic one. Custom map on the rollers is far better