Cupra r issues... Advice please

[FASTER]

A few issues on my LCR are niggleing me hope fully someone can help...

Reving at 2000rpm it feels like a miss fire a little lumpy..
Rev the engine it seems to stick at a high rev for a split second and come back down once the pedal had released.

When you power off its almost jurkie off and when boosting it seems to come in waves?

No mil lights or codes...

Any ideas??

Cheers

 

[pedro1989]

I'd start at the MAF, try disconnecting it and seeing if it runs better.

 

[mty12345]

I'd start by looking for split PCV/vacuum pipes mate, under the inlet manifold especially. They can cause all sorts of problems from lumpy idle, lumpy running at certain revs and throttle openings, misfires, lean codes, rich codes etc etc. If you can name it then a split hose can probably cause it,lol. If any of those pipes look oily then chances are there is a split somewhere around that point.

The slight over revving, especially if it happens on gear changes, can be a faulty clutch switch. Most people don't even realise there is a clutch switch, but when it fails it causes a slight delay on the revs dropping between gear changes etc.

If you have vagcom/vcds, then you can see the clutch switch on the engine module, group 066. The second digit of the 4 digits in field number 2, should change from a "0" to a "1" when the clutch is pressed.

If you don't have access to vagcom but you have a multimeter, (you should do, every man should have one,lol) then you can do it the old fashioned way... Unplug the wiring to the switch so you can see the 2 contacts on the switch itself (the switch,NOT the wiring plug) Set the meter to continuity, you should have continuity when the clutch is in it's resting position, and then no continuity when you press it.

Hope thats some help mate

 

[FASTER]

Legend mate! I'll get on it cheers for the advice...

 

[mty12345]

no probs boss

 

[SlimsLCR]

Sorry to jump in, is the clutch switch behind the pedal, or on the clutch housing! I have the same sticky rev problem so worth a go, anyone got a link to where I can purchase one, tried a search on flea bay but nothing coming up for cupra or cupra r under "clutch switch" thanks in advance!

 

[mty12345]

Sorry to jump in, is the clutch switch behind the pedal, or on the clutch housing! I have the same sticky rev problem so worth a go, anyone got a link to where I can purchase one, tried a search on flea bay but nothing coming up for cupra or cupra r under "clutch switch" thanks in advance!

Soz for late reply, it's on the top of the pedal inside the car mate. Thats almost certainly your issue. It's shown here on this diagram, but has no part number for some reason. Maybe main dealer only part? http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/se/LE/2003/268/57/4769930/

edit:SEAT themselves call the clutch switch a (F36) see below

 

[mty12345]

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From elsawin

 

[SlimsLCR]

Cheers mate, I actually found some under clutch control switch for a Leon, sent a message off with the reg to see if it fits! Even if it is dealer only it wont call for me to remortgage the house thanks for your reply! Much appreciated!

 

[mty12345]

Lol, no worries mate and no, i can't imagine even seat could charge too much for that, it's about as basic as a switch can get.

 

[FASTER]

I've had a poke and seems all 4 injector seals are weeping a bit, so that's first job...

Can cover gasket is leaking at back side slightly...

And under the inlet manifold the 2 way plastic pipe for oil breather is covered in oil but can't see any splits .... But a bugger to see anything under there.... Many have to take inlet off to have a real good look...

 

[mty12345]

I've had a poke and seems all 4 injector seals are weeping a bit, so that's first job...

Can cover gasket is leaking at back side slightly...

And under the inlet manifold the 2 way plastic pipe for oil breather is covered in oil but can't see any splits .... But a bugger to see anything under there.... Many have to take inlet off to have a real good look...

Yeah it can be a nightmare to see whats going on, you may get away with just removing the metal bracket that bolts to the inlet manifold rather than the manifold itself. Think you'll need a new gasket if you do have to remove it.
It's possible that oil has just leaked down onto it the pipe, but 99% of the time it is the PCV/oil breather hose/s that split, so i'd be fairly sure something there is split.