Great read and progress you have made with the car, did you have a k04 down pipe for sale at all in amongst your parts? Im looking to upgrade my k03s to ko4. Cheers.
Rainbird's LCR
- Thread starter rainbird
- Start date
Hey dude, cheers. I do actually - I've got the a full 3" turbo back setup and also a generic 3" DP/decat that could do with new homes really. I'm away from home for a couple of weeks at the mo but will try to remember to grab you some photos when I'm next back.
So, quick update time.
Last time I stuck up any photos I'd managed to get my hands on a second hand engine to rebuild. It's an AYP from an Ibiza Cupra and was running well when removed which is a bonus, though my current plans are to open it up for a rod install so a fair bit of the internal gubbins will be replaced. Not sure if I'll do main bearings while I'm at it, as that involves pulling literally everything out and most people seem to just do rod bearings to save pulling the bottom end apart too much.
Bought myself an engine stand to allow me to pull things apart a little more easily, and it'll allow me to rotate the block around when I'm working on it too.
Started pulling a few bits off to get the engine mounted up, starting with whipping off the clutch and flywheel
Clutch actually seems to be in decent shape. Not too sure what thickness these are from new/what the wear limit is, but seems to have some life left in it to my uneducated eye
Threw a spanner in the works to lock the flywheel in place while I loosened up the bolts
Popped up with ease, revealing a slightly out of shape cover plate in behind it. Anyone know if this is ok to reuse? Part number is 06a103645 and I'm struggling to find a reasonable supplier here, not contacted TPS yet though. From what I can make out it's only really to keep the grime out so shouldn't be too much of an issue.
With that out the way, I was able to get the stand plate bolted up. Need to get some slightly different bolts (They're M12x1.75 but the ones I had were shanked, ideally need to be ~90mm and threaded the full length)
At this point I could have slotted the engine onto the stand to make things easier to work with, but with me being a weedy ******* and not having anyone else about, I figured it best to shed some weight so I could haul it up.
Rocker cover off so I could pull the head off. Was pleased to see the cams in good shape
Head pulled off. I removed the head bolts in the same order the manual says to do them up. Don't think this is really necessary, but no harm in it. Valves are pretty sooty and could deal with a decent decoke!
Also spotted that the inlet mani the seller had left on the block was a large port offering, despite the fact the head is small port. previous owner won't have been getting any benefit from this, but it gives me something else to either run if I go LP in the future, or sell on to recoup costs a little (more likely)
A quick look inside the bores show that things appear to be in reasonably decent shape. There's the usual ring around the top where there's obviously no wear from stock, but this doesn't feel like too much to me.
Is it ok to leave this and simply rehone the bores, or do I need to remove this properly beforehand?
Pulled off the SAI pump. Given it looks as though the previous owner's Ibiza was modified I'm surprised this wasn't removed before.
You'll notice the bright blue oil sandwich plate. I spotted this on collection and wondered if it'd been run to an external oil cooler on the Ibiza it came from, but on closer inspection seems it was merely used as an oil temperature sender. Another part to store/sell I suppose!
Few more bits pulled off, the block was pretty much good to go in terms of popping it on the stand
Once it was up, I was able to have a slightly better look at things. Cleaned up one of the cylinders to have a closer look at its condition. Pistons etc will need a proper clean etc, but that will wait a while now. Cylinder walls look fairly polished and I need to measure them to double check they're still within spec, but seem to be in good shape so I think they'll likely be ok with just a honing and new rings.
Flipped the block over to take a quick look at the underside. Sump off, revealing oil pump/pickup etc. Pickup itself doesn't seem to be in bad shape, but will be replaced with the rebuild anyway as a matter of routine.
Unfortunately, this is where our story ends for a little while. I've joined a new unit at work and due to some pretty awful organisation by the higher-ups I'm likely to be stuck in the arse end of Scotland for a little while. This means rarely getting home and only for a day or so when I can so the engine is likely to go untouched until potentially the summer now. Gutted
Last time I stuck up any photos I'd managed to get my hands on a second hand engine to rebuild. It's an AYP from an Ibiza Cupra and was running well when removed which is a bonus, though my current plans are to open it up for a rod install so a fair bit of the internal gubbins will be replaced. Not sure if I'll do main bearings while I'm at it, as that involves pulling literally everything out and most people seem to just do rod bearings to save pulling the bottom end apart too much.
Bought myself an engine stand to allow me to pull things apart a little more easily, and it'll allow me to rotate the block around when I'm working on it too.
Started pulling a few bits off to get the engine mounted up, starting with whipping off the clutch and flywheel
Clutch actually seems to be in decent shape. Not too sure what thickness these are from new/what the wear limit is, but seems to have some life left in it to my uneducated eye
Threw a spanner in the works to lock the flywheel in place while I loosened up the bolts
Popped up with ease, revealing a slightly out of shape cover plate in behind it. Anyone know if this is ok to reuse? Part number is 06a103645 and I'm struggling to find a reasonable supplier here, not contacted TPS yet though. From what I can make out it's only really to keep the grime out so shouldn't be too much of an issue.
With that out the way, I was able to get the stand plate bolted up. Need to get some slightly different bolts (They're M12x1.75 but the ones I had were shanked, ideally need to be ~90mm and threaded the full length)
At this point I could have slotted the engine onto the stand to make things easier to work with, but with me being a weedy ******* and not having anyone else about, I figured it best to shed some weight so I could haul it up.
Rocker cover off so I could pull the head off. Was pleased to see the cams in good shape
Head pulled off. I removed the head bolts in the same order the manual says to do them up. Don't think this is really necessary, but no harm in it. Valves are pretty sooty and could deal with a decent decoke!
Also spotted that the inlet mani the seller had left on the block was a large port offering, despite the fact the head is small port. previous owner won't have been getting any benefit from this, but it gives me something else to either run if I go LP in the future, or sell on to recoup costs a little (more likely)
A quick look inside the bores show that things appear to be in reasonably decent shape. There's the usual ring around the top where there's obviously no wear from stock, but this doesn't feel like too much to me.
Is it ok to leave this and simply rehone the bores, or do I need to remove this properly beforehand?
Pulled off the SAI pump. Given it looks as though the previous owner's Ibiza was modified I'm surprised this wasn't removed before.
You'll notice the bright blue oil sandwich plate. I spotted this on collection and wondered if it'd been run to an external oil cooler on the Ibiza it came from, but on closer inspection seems it was merely used as an oil temperature sender. Another part to store/sell I suppose!
Few more bits pulled off, the block was pretty much good to go in terms of popping it on the stand
Once it was up, I was able to have a slightly better look at things. Cleaned up one of the cylinders to have a closer look at its condition. Pistons etc will need a proper clean etc, but that will wait a while now. Cylinder walls look fairly polished and I need to measure them to double check they're still within spec, but seem to be in good shape so I think they'll likely be ok with just a honing and new rings.
Flipped the block over to take a quick look at the underside. Sump off, revealing oil pump/pickup etc. Pickup itself doesn't seem to be in bad shape, but will be replaced with the rebuild anyway as a matter of routine.
Unfortunately, this is where our story ends for a little while. I've joined a new unit at work and due to some pretty awful organisation by the higher-ups I'm likely to be stuck in the arse end of Scotland for a little while. This means rarely getting home and only for a day or so when I can so the engine is likely to go untouched until potentially the summer now. Gutted
Oh yeah, and the one thing I've been able to do here in the arse end of nowhere is measure up an old exhaust mani gasket to start planning an adapter for potential TFSI goodness. Having never done any CAD stuff I was pretty happy for a 20 minute attempt...
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Pulled the oil pump off the engine I'm rebuilding and although the pump, chain and pickup are in good shape (the pickup pipe has a very small amount of crap in the pickup but nothing I'm too concerned about), the chain tensioner is looking a little worn.
The part itself is only a few quid (I already have a new one ready to rock) but to get to the single bolt to replace it I'm going to have to pull the front sealing flange off the block, replace it along with the main crank bolt (effort!) and may as well do the main crank bearings while I'm there. Yay for unwanted cost and effort haha.
Related: Pulled one rod/piston out to have a little look at things. New rods haven't arrived yet so I'll leave the others in place until they're here but very happy with how things look on the one I've removed.
Lots of parts stacked up ready to go in, just need to get this bloody crank bolt off and wait for the rods to arrive in a week or two. Woop!
The part itself is only a few quid (I already have a new one ready to rock) but to get to the single bolt to replace it I'm going to have to pull the front sealing flange off the block, replace it along with the main crank bolt (effort!) and may as well do the main crank bearings while I'm there. Yay for unwanted cost and effort haha.
Related: Pulled one rod/piston out to have a little look at things. New rods haven't arrived yet so I'll leave the others in place until they're here but very happy with how things look on the one I've removed.
Lots of parts stacked up ready to go in, just need to get this bloody crank bolt off and wait for the rods to arrive in a week or two. Woop!
Made a little more progress with the engine today.
Pulled the rest of the pistons out of the block so I could move things around a little more and start cleaning them up before they get fitted to new rods.
Separated the piston from the rod on #1 so I can start cleaning off all the carbon prior to refit. Bit of carb cleaner has proven to be pretty reasonable for getting rid of the slightly less baked in stuff, though I think a soft brass wire wheel on the Dremel might be the way to go. Need to be pretty careful though as the pistons are alu and don't want to make a mess of them. Is brass soft enough to use for this sort of thing, or would some kind of Nylon be a better bet?
Looking at the cylinders themselves they're all in decent shape (albeit shiny and glazed). The only real mark I could spot was this on #3, though I can't feel it with a fingernail so I'm content that it'll be gone with a hone.
With that sorted, I started to pull everything else off the block. My thinking is that the easiest way to get this crank bolt out is going to be to take it to a garage/machine shop and bribe them with Hobnobs, since it's sure as hell not going anywhere here! Pretty much removed everything now, though the 'stat housing had obviously leaked a tad previously as there was a fair bit of silicone around it
Left things stripped down in a fairly tidy state. Once the crankshaft is out, I'll set about fully stripping*the tatty paint from the block and give it a fresh coat (I have a load of VHT black/silver engine paint in the garage, likely use the former for the block again and latter for the head, maybe some wrinkle black for the rocker cover and inlet mani if I can be fecked...
Pulled the rest of the pistons out of the block so I could move things around a little more and start cleaning them up before they get fitted to new rods.
Separated the piston from the rod on #1 so I can start cleaning off all the carbon prior to refit. Bit of carb cleaner has proven to be pretty reasonable for getting rid of the slightly less baked in stuff, though I think a soft brass wire wheel on the Dremel might be the way to go. Need to be pretty careful though as the pistons are alu and don't want to make a mess of them. Is brass soft enough to use for this sort of thing, or would some kind of Nylon be a better bet?
Looking at the cylinders themselves they're all in decent shape (albeit shiny and glazed). The only real mark I could spot was this on #3, though I can't feel it with a fingernail so I'm content that it'll be gone with a hone.
With that sorted, I started to pull everything else off the block. My thinking is that the easiest way to get this crank bolt out is going to be to take it to a garage/machine shop and bribe them with Hobnobs, since it's sure as hell not going anywhere here! Pretty much removed everything now, though the 'stat housing had obviously leaked a tad previously as there was a fair bit of silicone around it
Left things stripped down in a fairly tidy state. Once the crankshaft is out, I'll set about fully stripping*the tatty paint from the block and give it a fresh coat (I have a load of VHT black/silver engine paint in the garage, likely use the former for the block again and latter for the head, maybe some wrinkle black for the rocker cover and inlet mani if I can be fecked...
Won't bother with many words tonight, as it seems either nobody reads this or nobody wants to discuss
Carb cleaner/blue roll only, no abrasives.
Stock drilling larger than I'd expected to see.
Provides lots of lube to small end.
Cleaned up bottom end. Will complete when crank removed at some point.
Waterpump was in. Now isn't.
Now replaced by an entire t-shirt. Surprised it all fitted! Won't flow coolant as well but should keep crap out of the hole.
Carb cleaner/blue roll only, no abrasives.
Stock drilling larger than I'd expected to see.
Provides lots of lube to small end.
Cleaned up bottom end. Will complete when crank removed at some point.
Waterpump was in. Now isn't.
Now replaced by an entire t-shirt. Surprised it all fitted! Won't flow coolant as well but should keep crap out of the hole.
Wow great read, Just read start to finish. You have worked wonders on the old girl!
Being a newbie I am keen to read as much servicing / oem work as poss and you've given me a good in sight.
Im also quite local to you (when your not in Scotland!) im about 30mins from Plymouth.
Gareth
Being a newbie I am keen to read as much servicing / oem work as poss and you've given me a good in sight.
Im also quite local to you (when your not in Scotland!) im about 30mins from Plymouth.
Gareth
Cheers Gareth, much appreciated. As you might have twigged I came into this a complete n00b too, having rarely done much more than general servicing and a few other little bits here and there. The past year or so since getting the car has been a fair old learning curve but at the end of the day it's all a big jigsaw really!
It looks as though I'll be based down near Plymouth again for a while, so if you need a hand with anything drop me a line.
It looks as though I'll be based down near Plymouth again for a while, so if you need a hand with anything drop me a line.
So I had the day off today (before starting a new posting tomorrow) and decided to use some of it to try and tackle this damn crank bolt. I'd previously had the block in the stand with a 3' breaker bar on there and it'd got me absolutely nowhere. Soaked the bolt in PlusGas a few times a day for a week, still no joy. Had tried all the usual tricks of giving the bolt a knock to try and release it etc with no success.
On the plus side, I got the new engine into my car today. On the downside, it was only for transportation purposes!
Headed over to visit my grandad as he's got a relatively well kitted out garage. Unfortunately when they moved a few years ago he got rid of a lot of tools as he went from a huge (triple/more) garage*to a double and simply didn't have the room nor the requirement for half the kit he used to be using regularly on cars/boats/etc. After giving things another whirl with breaker bars and assorted extensions, we dug out an old air driven impact gun and fired up the compressor; No joy. Suspecting that the small compressor simply didn't have the capacity to store enough energy, we added another bottle into the mix to see if it made a difference. It didn't, but the ghetto setup was fairly amusing!
Engine back in the car, I figured I'd call in to a friend's garage and see if he had anything that might do the trick. Again, we tried assorted breaker bars with no luck. Then he pulled out a battery impact gun that seemed fairly meaty; Still nothing. Another compressor driven air gun failed once more to move the thing at all. Eventually, with a 4ft, 3/4" drive breaker bar on the bolt and a 5ft long, 2" thick crowbar to counter on the block with 4 of us hanging off it we managed to finally get that bloody bolt to undo. SUCCESS AT LAST!
Back in the car, I got the engine home and returned it to the stand in the garage. Pulled off the front flange to reveal the whole reason I had to pull this in the first place - the singe 10mm bolt to remove the plastic chain tensioner. So much effort for such a trivial component! You can see here why I did it though - last thing I want happening is for the engine to suffer as a result of not replacing this cheap part. Gave things a wipe down, but will give them a more thorough going over before I start putting parts back in.
Given that I've not had to pull the entire crankshaft out I'm not 100% sure if I'll do the main bearings as well, though I'm very tempted since I've got this far. I know most people seem to leave it in place when fitting rods despite having to re-hone the cylinders, though I'm not a big fan of this method as you need to be far more careful of debris damaging the crank journals and also run the risk of knocking the oil squirters. Lots to go wrong.
Will price it all up and see how it looks. It'd be nice to have the peace of mind but I can't go throwing crazy money at this so we shall see.
One thing was apparent when I had this lot off - there was a tooth missing from the oil pump drive sprocket. Found the tooth inside the front housing. This'll need replacing before everything goes back together so need to get my hands on a new one - not the end of the world, as with anything chain driven the sprocket has signs of light wear so replacing it won't hurt at all.
In other news: Visiting grandparents resulted in a few bonus goodies. These'll be very handy when checking everything's within tolerance prior to reassembly.
Also: This lovely lot is now on the way to its new home. Didn't even get bolted up to my car in the end! Full turbo back 3" Cobra exhaust, spanking new Relentless Pro 4 ceramic coated manifold, hybrid K04-023 turbo and associated gaskets, seals and fittings. Slight shame that I didn't ever get to see what they'd do on this car, but look forward to seeing how the new owner gets on with them and they clear space/funds to put towards the evolution of mine so all is not lost
On the plus side, I got the new engine into my car today. On the downside, it was only for transportation purposes!
Headed over to visit my grandad as he's got a relatively well kitted out garage. Unfortunately when they moved a few years ago he got rid of a lot of tools as he went from a huge (triple/more) garage*to a double and simply didn't have the room nor the requirement for half the kit he used to be using regularly on cars/boats/etc. After giving things another whirl with breaker bars and assorted extensions, we dug out an old air driven impact gun and fired up the compressor; No joy. Suspecting that the small compressor simply didn't have the capacity to store enough energy, we added another bottle into the mix to see if it made a difference. It didn't, but the ghetto setup was fairly amusing!
Engine back in the car, I figured I'd call in to a friend's garage and see if he had anything that might do the trick. Again, we tried assorted breaker bars with no luck. Then he pulled out a battery impact gun that seemed fairly meaty; Still nothing. Another compressor driven air gun failed once more to move the thing at all. Eventually, with a 4ft, 3/4" drive breaker bar on the bolt and a 5ft long, 2" thick crowbar to counter on the block with 4 of us hanging off it we managed to finally get that bloody bolt to undo. SUCCESS AT LAST!
Back in the car, I got the engine home and returned it to the stand in the garage. Pulled off the front flange to reveal the whole reason I had to pull this in the first place - the singe 10mm bolt to remove the plastic chain tensioner. So much effort for such a trivial component! You can see here why I did it though - last thing I want happening is for the engine to suffer as a result of not replacing this cheap part. Gave things a wipe down, but will give them a more thorough going over before I start putting parts back in.
Given that I've not had to pull the entire crankshaft out I'm not 100% sure if I'll do the main bearings as well, though I'm very tempted since I've got this far. I know most people seem to leave it in place when fitting rods despite having to re-hone the cylinders, though I'm not a big fan of this method as you need to be far more careful of debris damaging the crank journals and also run the risk of knocking the oil squirters. Lots to go wrong.
Will price it all up and see how it looks. It'd be nice to have the peace of mind but I can't go throwing crazy money at this so we shall see.
One thing was apparent when I had this lot off - there was a tooth missing from the oil pump drive sprocket. Found the tooth inside the front housing. This'll need replacing before everything goes back together so need to get my hands on a new one - not the end of the world, as with anything chain driven the sprocket has signs of light wear so replacing it won't hurt at all.
In other news: Visiting grandparents resulted in a few bonus goodies. These'll be very handy when checking everything's within tolerance prior to reassembly.
Also: This lovely lot is now on the way to its new home. Didn't even get bolted up to my car in the end! Full turbo back 3" Cobra exhaust, spanking new Relentless Pro 4 ceramic coated manifold, hybrid K04-023 turbo and associated gaskets, seals and fittings. Slight shame that I didn't ever get to see what they'd do on this car, but look forward to seeing how the new owner gets on with them and they clear space/funds to put towards the evolution of mine so all is not lost
good progress there mate! what a stubborn shitty bolt that was to have held you up so much! at least its out now you can get back on with the build!
Cheers Reggie! Yep, incredibly stubborn bolt. I can't imagine how it was tightened up that much really (it doesn't appear to have been seized due to corrosion either), but these things happen. Suffice to say it'll be torqued appropriately when I'm putting it all back together...
Little bit more progress, nothing too major.
After finding the oil pump drive gear missing a tooth I started to look around the net to hunt down a replacement. I'd found one post on ASN a couple of years ago where someone had replaced the part, and a couple more from people who'd swapped one for the stock sprocket on a TFSI crank when building a stroker block up so I knew the part must be available however other than a couple of places that offered an aftermarket part for silly money I couldn't find one online.
Gave VW a call, listing the part number on the sprocket (06A 105 209) however they couldn't find anything on the system other than a complete crankshaft with the cog on for ~£900. Clearly I wasn't going to pay that, so I called around a few other places (Seat and Skoda included) but had no joy at all. Eventually I got in touch with a place in the states who had the best price, though obviously that wasn't ideal. Before shipping, impor duty and VAT they were after around $40 or so. With that, an email from Audi came through telling me they'd had a message from VW asking them to look into it and get in touch with me if they could help. BINGO! Stock part for £18.80, result!
I'll have to heat the old one up and get some pullers on there to remove, then similarly heat the new one before pressing it on. Fun times all round!
Fast forward a little bit and I'd removed the main caps from the block so as to get to the crankshaft. Pleasantly surprised to see that the bearings were in pretty decent shape despite over 100k miles on them. I'll obviously be checking the crank for wear etc so ensure everything's within tolerance but I'm fairly confident things should be in order.
With that out the way, the last thing to do was to pull out the oil squirters to leave a bare block to strip, paint and hone. Typically right before I finished up I found one more bolt that had been overtightened and mostly rounded off, this time the banjo that holds in #2 squirter. I'll have to get some easy outs on there and get rid of the bloomin' thing before I can progress any further.
Need to track down another, but VW wanted £15 each which I'd rather not pay so if anyone out there has stripped a block and would be able to hook me up it'd be massively appreciated so please let me know!
After finding the oil pump drive gear missing a tooth I started to look around the net to hunt down a replacement. I'd found one post on ASN a couple of years ago where someone had replaced the part, and a couple more from people who'd swapped one for the stock sprocket on a TFSI crank when building a stroker block up so I knew the part must be available however other than a couple of places that offered an aftermarket part for silly money I couldn't find one online.
Gave VW a call, listing the part number on the sprocket (06A 105 209) however they couldn't find anything on the system other than a complete crankshaft with the cog on for ~£900. Clearly I wasn't going to pay that, so I called around a few other places (Seat and Skoda included) but had no joy at all. Eventually I got in touch with a place in the states who had the best price, though obviously that wasn't ideal. Before shipping, impor duty and VAT they were after around $40 or so. With that, an email from Audi came through telling me they'd had a message from VW asking them to look into it and get in touch with me if they could help. BINGO! Stock part for £18.80, result!
I'll have to heat the old one up and get some pullers on there to remove, then similarly heat the new one before pressing it on. Fun times all round!
Fast forward a little bit and I'd removed the main caps from the block so as to get to the crankshaft. Pleasantly surprised to see that the bearings were in pretty decent shape despite over 100k miles on them. I'll obviously be checking the crank for wear etc so ensure everything's within tolerance but I'm fairly confident things should be in order.
With that out the way, the last thing to do was to pull out the oil squirters to leave a bare block to strip, paint and hone. Typically right before I finished up I found one more bolt that had been overtightened and mostly rounded off, this time the banjo that holds in #2 squirter. I'll have to get some easy outs on there and get rid of the bloomin' thing before I can progress any further.
Need to track down another, but VW wanted £15 each which I'd rather not pay so if anyone out there has stripped a block and would be able to hook me up it'd be massively appreciated so please let me know!
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In unrelated news, I got home early from work and figured I'd sort out a little niggly issue. When I gave the front suspension an overhaul a few months back (coils, bushes, ball joints, sensors etc) I accidentally split the pad wear sensor wires. As a result, the ECU sees an open circuit and figures the pads have worn past their warning limit. Nice simple little system when it works but given the pads were fairly recent, I wasn't going to go switching them for fresh ones just to clear a light on the dash. Still, if all it entails is joining the wires again there's no major snag.
Unfortunately my initial plan to simply crimp connect the remaining ends of the sensor wiring were scuppered when I took a closer look, as the wire had actually fractured inside the plastic connector. The fact this was flush with the plastic meant I couldn't even add a length of wire very easily as I'd have liked, which would have meant I could keep the stock connector and it'd have looked pretty inconspicuous.*
So, rather than removing the pins, having to drill out the set wires etc to replace with new I just hit the thing with a mallet to split the core out and was left with this.
Stuck a length more wire in.
Sealed it all up* and it's now back on the car, no light, no worries. Happy days, nice little 10 minute fix
*Yeah, I'm aware it looks gash with the duck tape - will replace with some nicer heatshrink down the line but didn't have any the right size at home...
Unfortunately my initial plan to simply crimp connect the remaining ends of the sensor wiring were scuppered when I took a closer look, as the wire had actually fractured inside the plastic connector. The fact this was flush with the plastic meant I couldn't even add a length of wire very easily as I'd have liked, which would have meant I could keep the stock connector and it'd have looked pretty inconspicuous.*
So, rather than removing the pins, having to drill out the set wires etc to replace with new I just hit the thing with a mallet to split the core out and was left with this.
Stuck a length more wire in.
Sealed it all up* and it's now back on the car, no light, no worries. Happy days, nice little 10 minute fix
*Yeah, I'm aware it looks gash with the duck tape - will replace with some nicer heatshrink down the line but didn't have any the right size at home...
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Old thrust washers.
New thrust washers.
Pulled old oil gear from crankshaft.
Old vs new.
Stuck the new one in the over for a bit (200 degrees for 15 minutes to be precise) then it pretty much dropped right on.
Had a Hope MTB hub tool nearby which was perfectly suited to helping drive it on the rest of the way, though for reference any 40mm tubing would do the job so long as it has a nice straight end to it - last thing you want to do it knock it on without it being properly square.
Ready to go back in
Have also been doing a little reading up/playing around with a few other bits. More on that at a later date, perhaps.
New thrust washers.
Pulled old oil gear from crankshaft.
Old vs new.
Stuck the new one in the over for a bit (200 degrees for 15 minutes to be precise) then it pretty much dropped right on.
Had a Hope MTB hub tool nearby which was perfectly suited to helping drive it on the rest of the way, though for reference any 40mm tubing would do the job so long as it has a nice straight end to it - last thing you want to do it knock it on without it being properly square.
Ready to go back in
Have also been doing a little reading up/playing around with a few other bits. More on that at a later date, perhaps.
Cheers bud. I did think about removing the code for it all together, but realistically I don't have the knowledge yet and also it's a feature I'd prefer to retain. As much as I'm pretty good at knowing the state of wear and tear parts like brakes and tyres it's always nice to have the system covering my ass too
I'm starting to do a little reading on mapping/coding etc, so down the line there are a few things I might look to map out to prevent the occasional light but pad wear is one I'd like to keep. Again, anyone who actually knows their car should be well aware of the condition of their brakes before they start to approach any wear limits but it's a nice safeguard to leave in place.
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