short shifter

[stevocupra]

has anyone ever tried to modify the original shifter parts to shorten the throw?

 

[Sparkie]

Most just go with a Forge replacement.

 

[cupraslayer]

I'm sure there's a ' how to ' on here for that somewhere . Have to dig deep though . It was some time ago .

 

[stevocupra]

Yeah seen the forge ones but I like Making bits myself where I can. Will have a dig round on here. It's like my old 323i I had. Everyone buys a converted 325i inlet to get more power. I built my own and it worked just as well so I looked at the forge short shifter and the cogs started turning. Got an idea how it works so we shall see

 

[Sparkie]

Nice when one has the skills. Bung a picture up when you've finished one.

 

[stevocupra]

Skills plenty just tie and money are the main issues lol

 

[Hb69]

Pretty sure there was a guide on here, just drill one of the holes in a slightly different place to shorten the throw. I went for a compbrake one, there's cheaper ones on eBay, or forge is more expensive

 

[stevocupra]

Found the front to back o e for £20 on the bay so will likely busy buy that one. Just need to look out for the side to side. Cheers for the info though.

 

[DrewCole]

I've ordered an eBay one along with my new dog-bone polybush.

 

[Nautilus]

Forge Short Shifter is a cast copy of the original, with an adjustable hole for the pin. With pin set in the middle, it shortens the throw from cca 6 in (15 cm) to cca 4 in or a bit more (10-11 cm).

Anyone with decent DIY skill can take the stock shifter, drill a hole about 1 in towards the center and screw the pin back in.

+ Shorter shifter movement;
- Heavier shifting, notchy feel.

As the car ages, shifter movement may become even heavier in 1st and 2nd gears at start, as both synchros in the gearbox and (riveted) fork for 1st-2nd gears become "sloppy".

There is a counterweight on the shifter, at the opposite end from where the cable attaches. Some aftermarket short shifters lack it. This is a necessity, not a luxury, as the car ages, it makes the shifting movement much smoother. The bigger the counterweight, the better.

In fact, if you attach some self-adhesive lead weights (those made for wheel balancing) to the counterweight end, carefully to not interfere with shifter movement in each gear, the quick-shifting movement becomes much smoother and easier. It takes at least 100g (0.22lbs), but towards 150g (0.33lbs) is better.

 

[bruceR]

As above, follow the Forge website on how to set the gearbox before you remove the shifter then drill a through hole or tap a threaded hole - IIRC about 22mm in from the end - and refit. Secure the cable with bolt and 'nyloc' nut.
The Forge write-up explains how to reset the linkage
Job done

 

[stevocupra]

Cheers for the responses guys. Some good info there. An see how it all works just need the time to do it now.

 

[Teuchter]

I done the diy one, only took 10-15 mins, 8 mm drill, 8 mm bolt with nylock nut and a couple of washers, easy.

I just looked through this thread to help me out a bit http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=272564

Hope it helps and what a difference it makes, all for a price of a nut and bolt

 

[DrewCole]

I picked up on from eBay which is a copy of the Forge one, took all of 15mins to install.

Great cheap mod.