Key fob question
- Thread starter Mr Bigglesworth
- Start date
Hugh
I needed to repair mine my spare fob just now (I had taken it apart to look at how to get to the immob chip) and left it apart for a few weeks. I actually did it exactly like the AZ thread and it didn't quite work, so I changed it slightly and it worked, although the extra steps I put in may have been completely unnecessary as you might be able to just do steps 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11 of the below.
Anyway - so I have 3 keys - Working Remote, New Remote, Valet Key (non-remote), this is what i did (I've tried to be specific):
1. Take a Valet Key, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, so the dashboard lights come on.
2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but in case there's a problem).
3. Exit the car and close the door.
4. With a Working Remote key, physically lock the doors by turning the key anti clockwise (don't use a remote).
5. Take the Working Remote, press the unlock button.
6. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should didn't unlock when they should have according to the AZ thread. So I pulled out the Valet Key from the ignition and pressed unlocked on the Working Remote which unlocked the doors.
7. Put Valet Key back in ignition and turn to on (just did this through open window)
8. Lock the door again (physically) with the Working Remote key, (not the remote) by turning anti clockwise.
9. Press the unlock button two times on New Remote key with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of two flashes.
10. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock.
11. Pulled out Valet Key from ignition and tested both remote keys lock and unlock and they worked fine.
I'm not sure how the above compares to what you did?
I needed to repair mine my spare fob just now (I had taken it apart to look at how to get to the immob chip) and left it apart for a few weeks. I actually did it exactly like the AZ thread and it didn't quite work, so I changed it slightly and it worked, although the extra steps I put in may have been completely unnecessary as you might be able to just do steps 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11 of the below.
Anyway - so I have 3 keys - Working Remote, New Remote, Valet Key (non-remote), this is what i did (I've tried to be specific):
1. Take a Valet Key, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, so the dashboard lights come on.
2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but in case there's a problem).
3. Exit the car and close the door.
4. With a Working Remote key, physically lock the doors by turning the key anti clockwise (don't use a remote).
5. Take the Working Remote, press the unlock button.
6. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should didn't unlock when they should have according to the AZ thread. So I pulled out the Valet Key from the ignition and pressed unlocked on the Working Remote which unlocked the doors.
7. Put Valet Key back in ignition and turn to on (just did this through open window)
8. Lock the door again (physically) with the Working Remote key, (not the remote) by turning anti clockwise.
9. Press the unlock button two times on New Remote key with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of two flashes.
10. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock.
11. Pulled out Valet Key from ignition and tested both remote keys lock and unlock and they worked fine.
I'm not sure how the above compares to what you did?
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I had working transponders in Valet Key and Working Remote key. I had an old transponder (matched to whatever of a4 the key came from) in the New Remote key.
I plan to switch the transponder from the Valet key as the final stage. Going should be alright to do without damaging it and it's not too tightly glued in! Got the replacement blade through yesterday (took 2 attempts to get right).
Let me know if you have any more luck with the above method, apologies for not mentioning it previously but I just tried a whole load of methods several times and I don't think I realised that I slightly modified the AZ approach in the end to get it to work.
I plan to switch the transponder from the Valet key as the final stage. Going should be alright to do without damaging it and it's not too tightly glued in! Got the replacement blade through yesterday (took 2 attempts to get right).
Let me know if you have any more luck with the above method, apologies for not mentioning it previously but I just tried a whole load of methods several times and I don't think I realised that I slightly modified the AZ approach in the end to get it to work.
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Finally finished doing my key fob - the tricky bit being moving the transponder from the valet key. Was a highly frustrating procedure which as taken be several attempts over the past few weeks. Initially started by leaving a swab of acetone on the transponder, then trying to scrape around the chip with a pick, wasn't really going anywhere. Tried heating the area (to loosen the glue) with a hairdryer - didn't do much. Retried the acetone and scraping - still nothing. I then dunked a whole lot of iso propyl alcohol on it and left it to soak for an hour, scraped around the edge one more time with carpet knife blade and then it levered up really easily and undamaged - phew.
Have you had any luck Hugh. I've seen a couple of other keys floating around with a K or O ending and 433Mhz, but none without an ending letter.
Have you had any luck Hugh. I've seen a couple of other keys floating around with a K or O ending and 433Mhz, but none without an ending letter.
No luck finding a suffixless key, and have spoken to breakers who have exeos also with no luck.
Tried the remote I already have with your method and didn't get anywhere. On step 4 of your sequence was it definitely clockwise to lock? Mine is anti-clockwise!
Tried the remote I already have with your method and didn't get anywhere. On step 4 of your sequence was it definitely clockwise to lock? Mine is anti-clockwise!
That was my mistake, it is anti clockwise! One final thing you could try is to open the key and leave the battery off the New Key so it definitely loses all memory. When I was tinkering with mine, and it last coding, but I didn't have the blade in to just turn the engine on to get it to restore coding, it was apart for a few days. I'm just following up on one potential option for a new key and will let you know.
Was going to pm you but I can't! You have a contact email address I could use - I'll email you my suggestions.
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For anyone still looking into this, there is a used exeo key on ebay, punch in the part number and you'll find it. Not cheap compared to finding the right used audi one but alot cheaper than new!
Hi, yes you can. I recently bought an exeo and it came with an audi badge remote key. I work in the key industry and noticed it had vgb5 sticker on it. This part number reports back to car key supplier called 3D group in Nottingham. You come buy the part from them and get someone with diagnostics to cut and program this in.
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