BKD inlet manifold on BMN PD170

[Nas-FR]

Hey all been a while since I posted on here but need some advice after doing some of my own research on the switch between the BMN plastic manifold to the alloy bkd manifold.

So I have a 2007 (57) seat Leon FR 2.0 TDI PD170 and unfortunately I have a nasty leak coming from the inlet manifold (around the actuator) there is a loud hissing sound that comes when you rev, also there is oil of some sort which has sprayed out around the area and underside bonnet. After doing some searching I found you can pretty much bolt on a 2.0 TDI BKD alloy manifold onto the BMN engine. From what I understand the part number for the bkd manifold is 03G129713 however when looking for this part I came across 2 types of manifolds; one with 03G129713, and one with 03G129713AF... Now I'm confused on which one will fit onto my car as from what I've seen the 03G129713 seems to be alloy and the 03G129713AF looks plastic... So a bit more research and a come across people saying after 06 your require AF while other say the alloy manifold is fine. Also when installing the bkd manifold will I require a gasket and if so which one to accommodate the bkd setup. Another confusing question I need answering is the bolts required for the fitment... Some are saying I can use the existing BMN bolts while others say I require the bkd manifold bolts? If I require bkd bolts where can I get these from? Lastly as the bkd manifold has no flaps and the original BMN manifold does what am I to do with the vacum pipe that initially went into the swirl flaps?

Please advise before I run into bigger problems
Thanks in advance guys

 

[Dodsy]

Yes it fits, you will need longer bolts which you can get from dealers or any bolt shop, don't particularly have too be genuine, there is also a metal gasket for the metal manifold as opposed to the rubber seal on the plastic manifold.
The swirl flaps and the actuator come off as one with the manifold then the metal manifold replaces them, I've just left my vacuum pipe hanging there, doesn't make any difference what so ever.
I bought a second hand plastic one first time and it lasted a few months and cracked again, never had a problem since I fitted the metal one.


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[Dodsy]

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[MJ]

I've you're really lucky you might find an early BMN alloy one.

 

[Dodsy]

They were on the PPD170 until 2007 so very rare.


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[Nas-FR]

Yes it fits, you will need longer bolts which you can get from dealers or any bolt shop, don't particularly have too be genuine, there is also a metal gasket for the metal manifold as opposed to the rubber seal on the plastic manifold.
The swirl flaps and the actuator come off as one with the manifold then the metal manifold replaces them, I've just left my vacuum pipe hanging there, doesn't make any difference what so ever.
I bought a second hand plastic one first time and it lasted a few months and cracked again, never had a problem since I fitted the metal one.


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Thanks for the info mate, really helpful.. I just bought a second hand Audi A3 8P 2.0 TDI BKD manifold for £30 so hopefully good to go!


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[Uselesshippy]

Hints and tips

Hi , thought I'd add some things to this. I had the apparently common issue of the worn flap bar in the plastic intake manifold on my 08 FR. Kept bringing up a Dpf issue and there was loads of oily carbon around the vacuum flap actuator. So thought I'd try this after first doing a bit of research. I'm no mechanic but I do have a engineering brain. I bought a bkd intake for peanuts but then found a article on the Volkswagen forum from touran tony which suggested using the manifold off an Audi A4 2.0 tdi b7 which is the same shape as the bkd intake but has the flap bar. I liked the idea of keeping it as per standard but in alloy instead of plastic. I bought the intake off eBay, here's where I made my mistake I didn't buy everything at the same time. Thinking I could reuse some of the seals, stupid!

You need the metal gasket to fit the bkd or Audi intake.

You need 5 (m8 x 35 bolts), flanged hex head are best. You can shorten the originals but there's also another reason to change.

You need 2 small m4 or m5 x 10 bolts. These hold the fuel pipes in place instead of the screws for the plastic manifold.

You need the seal that goes between the egr and intake.

You need the seal that goes between the egr and throttle body.

You need the gasket that sits between the egr and its feed pipe.

You need the seal on the intake pipe that attaches to the throttle body.

You need 4 cans of egr cleaner, holts is good and cheapest also on the auction site.

You need torx bits t30 and spline bits.

I'd suggest putting a egr semi blanking plate in while you're at it, the one with the small 9mm hole in it.

I thought I could do this in a day but because I didn't have everything it took me 3 days, l don't have the luxury of a second car and not close to motor factor.

Clean the intake manifold you'll use 2 cans of cleaner, tried mr muscle no where as good.

After you disconnect the intake pipe, stick a rag in it. The egr and throttle are held on by 3 bolts each but one bolt is shared. Undo the bolt at the back of the throttle body it's a long bolt that goes through both the throttle and egr. Then undo the 2 bolts holding the egr to the plastic intake manifold. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors. Then the egr and throttle come off as one. You separate them off the car. Now clean the egr and throttle another 2 cans.

Undo the top 5 bolts holding the manifold, these can be reused.

Undo the bottom 5 , I found the 2 on the right as you look at it really hard to get off. And that's why I suggested changing to hex head earlier.

Moving the alternator a little by undoing the top bolt helps with access, it took some effort to get it back in place though.

The 2 brackets that hold the engine cover. The left fitted fine. The right required a little modification with my dremel on the bracket and the manifold. The bracket is held on by the 2 top right manifold bolts on the alloy manifold there's 2 flanges that protrude stopping the bracket fitting flush. I ground flush the flange closest to the left of the bracket bolts on the manifold. Then ground a bit off the bracket approximately in the middle to clear the other flange. You could grind the flange flush on the manifold but I found it easier to do the bracket.

Fit the new seals into the egr and throttle then refit to the manifold I found it easier as one not separate as you only need to do 3 bolts up. Fit the semi blanking plate and then change the seal on the intake pipe.

 

[GordieC]

That's a cracking write-up. Very descriptive and easy to follow. Got a mate who needs this done on her Golf GTD.

 

[Uselesshippy]

 

[BUX FR170]

Hi mate,

I'm looking at doing this to mine soon. Do you still have the car and have you had any problems?

Cheers.

 

[blackquat]

I've have a BKD manifold on for months now. No problems at all. Paid over the odds at DSD though.

 

[BUX FR170]

I've have a BKD manifold on for months now. No problems at all. Paid over the odds at DSD though.

Can I ask why? Did you have oil leaking from near the actuator? This is what mines doing.

 

[blackquat]

Yeah leaking oil and a little rattle. The week before, my brothers let go on his vrs and killed his engine.

 

[BUX FR170]

Yeah leaking oil and a little rattle. The week before, my brothers let go on his vrs and killed his engine.

****!!

I've just ordered one off eBay and now gonna sort the gaskets and seals etc so that I've got everything I need so hopefully go smoothly.

Mines leaking oil but I must say it's not affected performance or anything as yet. Touch wood. Just glad I've seen it so I can get it sorted asap.

 

[Uselesshippy]

Yes still got the. Car no issues with the inlet so far I'll take the egr off at next service to see how it's doing

 

[Shane Watson]

Hi everyone, I've been reading this thread as I noticed an oil residue on my alternator, so I ordered the manifold from DSD and I fitted it myself, im no mechanic.

I put it all back together, and took it for a test drive, all was fine.

Then I went for a drive the next day, and I heard a little pop around 3/4000 revs and it started to loose power, almost like a boost leak but I turn the car off and on and its fine for a few minutes then it gets a rough idle and its started to knock when I revved it to the turbo.

It boosts fine for the first few mins so I don't think its the turbo?

Any ideas please? Im stumped!!

Thanks Shane

 

[LestatFR]

Hints and tips

Hi , thought I'd add some things to this. I had the apparently common issue of the worn flap bar in the plastic intake manifold on my 08 FR. Kept bringing up a Dpf issue and there was loads of oily carbon around the vacuum flap actuator. So thought I'd try this after first doing a bit of research. I'm no mechanic but I do have a engineering brain. I bought a bkd intake for peanuts but then found a article on the Volkswagen forum from touran tony which suggested using the manifold off an Audi A4 2.0 tdi b7 which is the same shape as the bkd intake but has the flap bar. I liked the idea of keeping it as per standard but in alloy instead of plastic. I bought the intake off eBay, here's where I made my mistake I didn't buy everything at the same time. Thinking I could reuse some of the seals, stupid!

You need the metal gasket to fit the bkd or Audi intake.

You need 5 (m8 x 35 bolts), flanged hex head are best. You can shorten the originals but there's also another reason to change.

You need 2 small m4 or m5 x 10 bolts. These hold the fuel pipes in place instead of the screws for the plastic manifold.

You need the seal that goes between the egr and intake.

You need the seal that goes between the egr and throttle body.

You need the gasket that sits between the egr and its feed pipe.

You need the seal on the intake pipe that attaches to the throttle body.

You need 4 cans of egr cleaner, holts is good and cheapest also on the auction site.

You need torx bits t30 and spline bits.

I'd suggest putting a egr semi blanking plate in while you're at it, the one with the small 9mm hole in it.

I thought I could do this in a day but because I didn't have everything it took me 3 days, l don't have the luxury of a second car and not close to motor factor.

Clean the intake manifold you'll use 2 cans of cleaner, tried mr muscle no where as good.

After you disconnect the intake pipe, stick a rag in it. The egr and throttle are held on by 3 bolts each but one bolt is shared. Undo the bolt at the back of the throttle body it's a long bolt that goes through both the throttle and egr. Then undo the 2 bolts holding the egr to the plastic intake manifold. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors. Then the egr and throttle come off as one. You separate them off the car. Now clean the egr and throttle another 2 cans.

Undo the top 5 bolts holding the manifold, these can be reused.

Undo the bottom 5 , I found the 2 on the right as you look at it really hard to get off. And that's why I suggested changing to hex head earlier.

Moving the alternator a little by undoing the top bolt helps with access, it took some effort to get it back in place though.

The 2 brackets that hold the engine cover. The left fitted fine. The right required a little modification with my dremel on the bracket and the manifold. The bracket is held on by the 2 top right manifold bolts on the alloy manifold there's 2 flanges that protrude stopping the bracket fitting flush. I ground flush the flange closest to the left of the bracket bolts on the manifold. Then ground a bit off the bracket approximately in the middle to clear the other flange. You could grind the flange flush on the manifold but I found it easier to do the bracket.

Fit the new seals into the egr and throttle then refit to the manifold I found it easier as one not separate as you only need to do 3 bolts up. Fit the semi blanking plate and then change the seal on the intake pipe.

Many thanks for the descriptive guide!

Does anyone on the forum know the part numbers of all seals and gaskets involved, please?
It would be nice to update that guide with reference numbers.

I am just going through eBay but without access to part numbers, I am guesstimating too much.

I am about to replace the manifold and would like to get all parts in one go so I can sort out everything in a day...

 

[Shane Watson]

Many thanks for the descriptive guide!

Does anyone on the forum know the part numbers of all seals and gaskets involved, please?
It would be nice to update that guide with reference numbers.

I am just going through eBay but without access to part numbers, I am guesstimating too much.

I am about to replace the manifold and would like to get all parts in one go so I can sort out everything in a day...

Hi mate,

I don't know the part number but I got my manifold, gasket and bolts all in a kit from darkside developments, made it so much easier, its £120 with postage but worth it to not make a mistake on wrong parts.

And I fitted it myself, but I had my turbo go after it, but that was my fault as I didn't clear all the carbon build up into the ports, and it has gone through the engine into the turbo and damaged the propellers, but I had a lot more power after it!

I didn't get a new seal for the egr valve as it was an o ring, and I have since done a smoke test and it's al sealed.

It's pretty straightforward.

Let me know if you need any more info, shane!

 

[Shane Watson]

Many thanks for the descriptive guide!

Does anyone on the forum know the part numbers of all seals and gaskets involved, please?
It would be nice to update that guide with reference numbers.

I am just going through eBay but without access to part numbers, I am guesstimating too much.

I am about to replace the manifold and would like to get all parts in one go so I can sort out everything in a day...

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co...-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html

 

[afcjay]

Did you plug the vacuum pipe for the actuator