what did you and your mk3 leon do today
- Thread starter seatleon2012
- Start date
So.... I've had a DTUK CRD3+ tuning box on my 184 Fr for a while now, and as anyone that's had one will testify, they transform the car like no other mod BUT..... they are incredibly frustrating as they quite often throw a coil light and put the car into limp mode, which for me means 60 miles of struggling not to get hit by lorries on fast A roads and Motorways.... so its a love/hate relationship. I love it when it works, but I hate it with a passion any other time... ill often take it out completely, vowing never to ever put it back on, but then I give in...
Anyways, DTUK are pretty useless at giving anyone any actual advise on what to do to try and combat this well documented phenomenon (its common on all the 184 engines from VW/Audi/SEAT and Skoda), usually spouting some spurious nonsense about 'each engine is different' and 'well it never did it on our test mule' etc..
So I've had to do a bit of digging myself about why it happens, mainly after a very frustrating week where the car just cut out at a roundabout, coil light on, and wouldn't restart, cue trying to push it and steer with no power assistance etc (we've all been there in our youth when we drove sh1tboxes, but I don't expect to have to do it in a 3 year old car) and it is not only annoying, its downright dangerous. Its absolutely 100% the fault of the tuning box, which seems to have been mapped in such a way that the standard boost sensor reports an error which locks down the whole system. even removing the box doesn't clear the fault... the only way is to either let the car cycle through a number of ignition on/off's (and there is no way to try and do this yourself as it seems random how long it takes) or to plug in a laptop via VCDS and clear the DTC'.s Even using this last approach I cleared down the DTC's last week, started the car, pulled off the drive and the coil light went, leaving me stranded blocking the middle of the road outside my own house...
Its worth pointing out that I bought the unit second hand from here (it came with the receipt), and that I have tried running with a large combinations of all the different settings (1, 2, 3, +1, +2 etc)....
So I have now purchased a brand new boost sensor and have fitted that and put the box back on set on 1 + 1 and will see how long it lasts for....
Anyways, DTUK are pretty useless at giving anyone any actual advise on what to do to try and combat this well documented phenomenon (its common on all the 184 engines from VW/Audi/SEAT and Skoda), usually spouting some spurious nonsense about 'each engine is different' and 'well it never did it on our test mule' etc..
So I've had to do a bit of digging myself about why it happens, mainly after a very frustrating week where the car just cut out at a roundabout, coil light on, and wouldn't restart, cue trying to push it and steer with no power assistance etc (we've all been there in our youth when we drove sh1tboxes, but I don't expect to have to do it in a 3 year old car) and it is not only annoying, its downright dangerous. Its absolutely 100% the fault of the tuning box, which seems to have been mapped in such a way that the standard boost sensor reports an error which locks down the whole system. even removing the box doesn't clear the fault... the only way is to either let the car cycle through a number of ignition on/off's (and there is no way to try and do this yourself as it seems random how long it takes) or to plug in a laptop via VCDS and clear the DTC'.s Even using this last approach I cleared down the DTC's last week, started the car, pulled off the drive and the coil light went, leaving me stranded blocking the middle of the road outside my own house...
Its worth pointing out that I bought the unit second hand from here (it came with the receipt), and that I have tried running with a large combinations of all the different settings (1, 2, 3, +1, +2 etc)....
So I have now purchased a brand new boost sensor and have fitted that and put the box back on set on 1 + 1 and will see how long it lasts for....
aghhhh... this post above just made me scrap my idea of getting a DTUK box as a gap filler until the warranty wears off and I can put a APR remap on the car 
I don't think its an issue on a cupra mate, just on the 184 TDiaghhhh... this post above just made me scrap my idea of getting a DTUK box as a gap filler until the warranty wears off and I can put a APR remap on the car
Deleted member 103408
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Just as an aside would it not be worth getting a cheap OBD Reader that allows you to clear the DTC errors at least that way you can do it on the road.
Hi I have had sort of the same thing happen on my cupra 300 lot of times over a 5week period. From what i have been told by DTUK is its the + on what ever program you have it on, I tried it on all programs with +1 and 2, plus 2 was worse than one, The higher the plus more fuel get put in (sort of) anyway try it on zero, which mine is at the moment and it has been fine for the last 3days, There is no zero number but just put it on any program and leave the + and - off which means it will be on zero with no light on. Hope that makes sence.
Considering this for my Cupra ST 300 DSG.
Which settings do you find the best? Best compromise between economy and power?
Deleted member 103408
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There are certainly dongles that work with iPhone, OBD11 is only Android, Carista is Both Android and Apple, just need to make sure they can clear codes not just read them.
Hi only had it on program 1 zero at the moment, will try different one over the weekend,
Take note that Jaco's car is LHD so I would think that the hose at the very least would be different for RHD.Thank you Jaco! like you, I hate the idea of melted choccy this time of year
Had the DTUK on my Cupra 300 now for about a month, tested it on all 3 maps (on zero setting). I like the map 3 the most as the boost come in later (after 3000rpm). i dont feel like i want more than the zero setting. no issues so far.
FYI even the -3 will give more boost than the zero setting.
FYI even the -3 will give more boost than the zero setting.
I chose DTUK for the same reason, so i can take it off easy. only problem i had so far was the last sensor underneath the car that i forgot to push in first then out. But Andrew and Dtuk has blazing fast support so he could advice me during install
Map 1 the car is an absolute beast, kick hard at about 1500 rmp
Map 2 a middle ground between 1 and 3 about 2000+ rmp
Map 3 conservative or as the app on the phone calls it economy, comes in later 3000+ rmp
but still kicks in hard when u floor it
so far i have nothing but grate things to say, no issues at all, but then again i havent boosted more on the settings. And i prob wont eather.
Thanks. Once my service and MOT is out of the way i'll look at getting one.I chose DTUK for the same reason, so i can take it off easy. only problem i had so far was the last sensor underneath the car that i forgot to push in first then out. But Andrew and Dtuk has blazing fast support so he could advice me during install
Map 1 the car is an absolute beast, kick hard at about 1500 rmp
Map 2 a middle ground between 1 and 3 about 2000+ rmp
Map 3 conservative or as the app on the phone calls it economy, comes in later 3000+ rmp
but still kicks in hard when u floor it
so far i have nothing but grate things to say, no issues at all, but then again i havent boosted more on the settings. And i prob wont eather.
I can see a grey area with insurance with these, I crashed but my tuning box that I didn't tell you about was turned off at the time.
Deleted member 103408
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With regards to insurance my understanding is its about the modification - if you modify you have to advise them.
So on a stage 1 map you can have stock, poor conditions and perfect conditions, even if the car is in stock you still have a modified car so you have to declare it or take the risk.
So on a stage 1 map you can have stock, poor conditions and perfect conditions, even if the car is in stock you still have a modified car so you have to declare it or take the risk.
I always do declare it as the increase in premium for me is negligible, or zero in the case of my induction kit.
I can just see those types of conversations happening between someone who has just binned their pride and joy and an insurance company looking to not pay out. Vision of people frantically unclipping sensors and removing the tuning box with their car half stuck in a hedgrow
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