Replacing rear wheel bearing

JamesH

Active Member
Dec 7, 2016
2
0
Rears are VERY easy to do on the drive/in the garage.

There is no pressing of any bearings at all - the hub arrives with the bearings and ABS sensor ring already fitted.

You will need a 12 spline socket ( i think its a 32mm 12 spline but check first )

Jack up car
Remove wheel ( 5 bolts )
Remove brake caliper & carrier ( 4 bolts )
Remove hub nut cap and remove hub nut ( I beleive they are once only use so you need a new one )
Remove hub/bearing assembly

Put new hub/braring assembly on stub axle
Replace and torque up the hub nut
Replace hub nut cap
Replace caliper/carrier
Replace wheel
Lower car

Check brakes

Go for drive.

Hi, new here and am thinking of doing both my rear wheel bearings soon as I replaced the drum shoes recently and noticed a little play in both bearings. The car as roughly 115k miles on it.

I just had one question, does anyone have the torque setting for the self locking hub nut for reassembly?
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Taken from the equivalent VW Polo Haynes manual:- 70Nm then Angle-tighten a further 30 degrees.

I'd be interested how you get on as my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza SC 1.4 has had what sounds like a bearing with a ball missing, probably from new! And now it has become a slight "wha wha" noise!
(including price for new hub assembly + hub nut + dust cap)
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
One other thing, I'm not trying to go against what DEANO has written (and you quoted), as he has seen this area of that car - but, looking at the VW Polo Oct 2009 > Jul 2014 Haynes workshop manual, the pictures supporting this repair show that the rear hub nut is a self locking (nyloc) nut with 12 points and not a nut with spline type suitability.

So it will just be similar to the front hub nut but different size and different locking elements. That means that any BI-HEX socket should fit it - so don't go trying to source a 32mm, M32 Spline tool.
 
Last edited:

JamesH

Active Member
Dec 7, 2016
2
0
Thanks for that, I've yet to order the new bearing assembly but will let you know how I get on. When replacing the drum shoes I actually removed the dust cap and a 30mm hex fit the hub nut and it removed it too.

It is 12 point self locking (nyloc) like you described and once you get the drum off (which was the hardest bit due to a lip), you can just remove the bearing assembly easy.
I was able wiggle the pressed bearings (there are 2 sealed bearings) with ease in the assembly once removed from the hub, so definitely in need of a replacement.

I've reused the self locking nut when I reassembled as I didn't realise it was one until after I took it off so looking to replace it ASAP.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Yes, sometimes its temping to take the hub flange off to make replacing brake shoes/springs/adjusters a bit easier, though sometimes I feel that having that left on gives you something to lever against, swings and roundabouts maybe.
 

mpk490p

Active Member
Oct 19, 2014
16
4
Anyone know the rear carrier bolt threat and length? Mashed mine up so will replace with bolts
thanks


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