For anyone that uses an automatic car wash, the £5 hand wash outfits or the old traditional bucket and sponge method, scratching and swirling of the paintwork is pretty much inevitable. Also, letting the dealer wash your car if it’s in for servicing or repairs is a definite ‘no-no’ in my opinion, unless you want heavily swirled paintwork!
A careful two or three bucket washing method minimises the risk of scratches and swirls and the need to use heavy ‘cutting’ compounds to correct badly scratched or swirled paintwork or filler polishes to hide the scratches / swirls. The key to scratch-free and swirl-free paint is to minimise the amount of contact with the paintwork while the car is dirty by using a safe wash method. My car wash routine consists of;
- Pre-wash snow foam with snow foam lance attached to pressure washer to remove most of the dirt before the washing stage. Leave snow foam to dwell for 10 minutes or so.
- Fill wash buckets; one ‘rinse’ bucket filled with clear water and two ‘wash’ buckets filled with a ph neutral shampoo and water mix.
- With one of the wash buckets, wash wheels with a dedicated microfibre wheel mitt. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket before reloading the mitt each time with soapy water. Wash the wheel barrels (I have a set of Wheel Woolies to wash the barrels), and with a detailing brush, clean the brake callipers, grilles, inside fuel filler flap, door shuts and other intricate bits.
- Pressure wash rinse off any remaining snow foam. There should now be very little dirt left on the car to be washed off. If necessary, empty and refill the rinse bucket of the water’s dirty.
- With the second wash bucket and lambs wool wash mitt wash car body, starting at the top and working down. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket each time before re-loading the wash mitt with fresh soapy water.
- Rinse car with an open ended hose to ‘sheet’ the water off the bodywork. If the car is well protected with a good wax or sealant, very little water will be left to dry off. Dry bodywork and wheels (I use a warm air dryer to minimise contact with the paintwork), including blowing water out of water traps - grille, around window rubbers, door mirrors, wheel bolt holes etc. Dry around door openings, under bonnet edges / edge of front wings under bonnet and rear hatch opening, inside fuel filler flap with dedicated drying towel Pat dry any remaining water that’s on the car bodywork with a dedicated drying towel.
- Clean glass, dress tyres and other black plastic trim.
- Move on to the interior.............
Using the above wash method, my car’s paintwork stays pretty much scratch and swirl-free, although I find some light swirling is inevitable after a period of time, however careful you are. I deal with these light swirls by machine polishing my car every 18-24 months with an appropriate combination of polish and pad on my DA polisher. As any swirling is light because of the ‘safe’ wash method used, I only need to use a light cutting polish, so the amount of clear coat that’s removed in the process is absolutely minimal.