Paint quality

phil750

Active Member
Jul 24, 2012
213
1
done 16000k so far, quite a few stone little chips but barely noticable to be honest.

I only really notice them when im waxing the car, and as get so close you do notice how many i have.
 

marty_34

Active Member
Apr 21, 2012
1,183
2
TEESSIDE
did 12k in my 184 when i had it, only had 4/5 nasty chips which were filled and flattened when car was detailed

would say durability improved from mk2 purely the angle of front end i would say
 

perkman1969

Active Member
Feb 25, 2015
298
1
NE England
Don't get me started on those piggin' things!! Our council in their infinite wisdom send their sweeper up the main road out of our town at peak rush hour every time, and I usually encounter it near to a turning to a local school. It's bedlam with no way of getting past the thing, and despite complaining to the eejits, got the stock answer of "we have a duty to keep the roads clean" - bollocks, the gutters that clown is usually sweeping are clean!!
Rant over (for now at least...)
 

perkman1969

Active Member
Feb 25, 2015
298
1
NE England
agree with raymondo this is the method i use, key to it is making sure you take your time

always keep a cloth close by to flick off any excess paint

had a mk2 that was pebbledashed on bonnet, the mk3 is improvement but not great

Just spent half an hour with my Dremel-type device and a bottle of Autoglym polish working on the rubbish job I did touching up the chips last weekend (brush too fat, tooth pick advice too late sadly).
Used a tiny soft pad thing that came with the gizmo and plenty of polish and it's improved the ones I've worked on massively. Will now go back and try the tooth pick trick to finish them off (I used a match paint from Halfords, using the code in the boot, but match isn't as good as I was led to believe it would be - any others found something better?)
 

yellowcone87

Active Member
Mar 9, 2014
490
0
Warwickshire
Just going to put it out there, when was the last time you saw a road sweeper?

This is a good point. The road I live on was resurfaced last year, and I haven't seen a sweeper since. Consequently there are lots of loose stones and gravel all the way up the road. I don't put my Leon on the driveway as there isn't room for it, so all those stones are constantly kicked up over it when others drive past.

Trying to keep it looking nice is a losing battle! It's hard enough trying to avoid it when driving, let alone while parked!
 

Orbiter

Orbiter
Apr 3, 2015
119
1
Lets hope we don't have icy roads this winter, the only thing worse than road grit being thrown at your car is sliding off the road because it wasn't gritted.
You cant win.
 

silles

Active Member
May 4, 2017
517
88
Not impressed at all, after 6 months and 6k car has loads of scratches. By just looking at the paint and it gets scratched.

What's the best/easiest way to get rid of minor clearcoat scratches ?
 

Mr Pig

Active Member
Jun 17, 2015
2,628
910
What's the best/easiest way to get rid of minor clearcoat scratches ?

Put a wax on it. If you buff it you'll need to remove paint until you remove the scratch. Basically, you are doing more damage to the paint! I'm happy enough doing that once or twice in a car's life, when you're about to sell it for instance, but not as a regular thing.

Putting wax on it fills in the scratches and adds protection. Yes, you need to do it again but you are not removing paint.

It's not just Seat, modern paint is not as good as some of the older paints. It's water-based for a start and they put less on than they used to. Which saves them money but doesn't do much for the durability of the paint.
 

Brimfull

Active Member
Nov 7, 2018
1,385
418
Wrexham
Use auto glym super resin polish as this is full of fillers that simply fill in the scratches but does not remove them. As stated above then apply a sealant followed by a wax, these will help keep the polish in place for longer. After a few months it will be time to do the above all over again to cover up the reappearance of the scratches.
 
Last edited:

silles

Active Member
May 4, 2017
517
88
Use auto glym super resin polish as this is full of fillers that simply fill in the scratches but does not remove them. As stated above them apply a sealant followed by a wax, these will help keep the polish in place for longer. After a few months it will time to do the above all over again to cover up the scratches.

Cheers. Sounds good .. I'll give this a go when the weather is right
 

SRGTD

Active Member
May 26, 2014
2,420
1,300
Put a wax on it. If you buff it you'll need to remove paint until you remove the scratch. Basically, you are doing more damage to the paint! I'm happy enough doing that once or twice in a car's life, when you're about to sell it for instance, but not as a regular thing.

Putting wax on it fills in the scratches and adds protection. Yes, you need to do it again but you are not removing paint.

It's not just Seat, modern paint is not as good as some of the older paints. It's water-based for a start and they put less on than they used to. Which saves them money but doesn't do much for the durability of the paint.

For anyone that uses an automatic car wash, the £5 hand wash outfits or the old traditional bucket and sponge method, scratching and swirling of the paintwork is pretty much inevitable. Also, letting the dealer wash your car if it’s in for servicing or repairs is a definite ‘no-no’ in my opinion, unless you want heavily swirled paintwork!

A careful two or three bucket washing method minimises the risk of scratches and swirls and the need to use heavy ‘cutting’ compounds to correct badly scratched or swirled paintwork or filler polishes to hide the scratches / swirls. The key to scratch-free and swirl-free paint is to minimise the amount of contact with the paintwork while the car is dirty by using a safe wash method. My car wash routine consists of;
  • Pre-wash snow foam with snow foam lance attached to pressure washer to remove most of the dirt before the washing stage. Leave snow foam to dwell for 10 minutes or so.
  • Fill wash buckets; one ‘rinse’ bucket filled with clear water and two ‘wash’ buckets filled with a ph neutral shampoo and water mix.
  • With one of the wash buckets, wash wheels with a dedicated microfibre wheel mitt. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket before reloading the mitt each time with soapy water. Wash the wheel barrels (I have a set of Wheel Woolies to wash the barrels), and with a detailing brush, clean the brake callipers, grilles, inside fuel filler flap, door shuts and other intricate bits.
  • Pressure wash rinse off any remaining snow foam. There should now be very little dirt left on the car to be washed off. If necessary, empty and refill the rinse bucket of the water’s dirty.
  • With the second wash bucket and lambs wool wash mitt wash car body, starting at the top and working down. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket each time before re-loading the wash mitt with fresh soapy water.
  • Rinse car with an open ended hose to ‘sheet’ the water off the bodywork. If the car is well protected with a good wax or sealant, very little water will be left to dry off. Dry bodywork and wheels (I use a warm air dryer to minimise contact with the paintwork), including blowing water out of water traps - grille, around window rubbers, door mirrors, wheel bolt holes etc. Dry around door openings, under bonnet edges / edge of front wings under bonnet and rear hatch opening, inside fuel filler flap with dedicated drying towel Pat dry any remaining water that’s on the car bodywork with a dedicated drying towel.
  • Clean glass, dress tyres and other black plastic trim.
  • Move on to the interior.............
Using the above wash method, my car’s paintwork stays pretty much scratch and swirl-free, although I find some light swirling is inevitable after a period of time, however careful you are. I deal with these light swirls by machine polishing my car every 18-24 months with an appropriate combination of polish and pad on my DA polisher. As any swirling is light because of the ‘safe’ wash method used, I only need to use a light cutting polish, so the amount of clear coat that’s removed in the process is absolutely minimal.
 

silles

Active Member
May 4, 2017
517
88
For anyone that uses an automatic car wash, the £5 hand wash outfits or the old traditional bucket and sponge method, scratching and swirling of the paintwork is pretty much inevitable. Also, letting the dealer wash your car if it’s in for servicing or repairs is a definite ‘no-no’ in my opinion, unless you want heavily swirled paintwork!

A careful two or three bucket washing method minimises the risk of scratches and swirls and the need to use heavy ‘cutting’ compounds to correct badly scratched or swirled paintwork or filler polishes to hide the scratches / swirls. The key to scratch-free and swirl-free paint is to minimise the amount of contact with the paintwork while the car is dirty by using a safe wash method. My car wash routine consists of;
  • Pre-wash snow foam with snow foam lance attached to pressure washer to remove most of the dirt before the washing stage. Leave snow foam to dwell for 10 minutes or so.
  • Fill wash buckets; one ‘rinse’ bucket filled with clear water and two ‘wash’ buckets filled with a ph neutral shampoo and water mix.
  • With one of the wash buckets, wash wheels with a dedicated microfibre wheel mitt. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket before reloading the mitt each time with soapy water. Wash the wheel barrels (I have a set of Wheel Woolies to wash the barrels), and with a detailing brush, clean the brake callipers, grilles, inside fuel filler flap, door shuts and other intricate bits.
  • Pressure wash rinse off any remaining snow foam. There should now be very little dirt left on the car to be washed off. If necessary, empty and refill the rinse bucket of the water’s dirty.
  • With the second wash bucket and lambs wool wash mitt wash car body, starting at the top and working down. Rinse mitt in the rinse bucket each time before re-loading the wash mitt with fresh soapy water.
  • Rinse car with an open ended hose to ‘sheet’ the water off the bodywork. If the car is well protected with a good wax or sealant, very little water will be left to dry off. Dry bodywork and wheels (I use a warm air dryer to minimise contact with the paintwork), including blowing water out of water traps - grille, around window rubbers, door mirrors, wheel bolt holes etc. Dry around door openings, under bonnet edges / edge of front wings under bonnet and rear hatch opening, inside fuel filler flap with dedicated drying towel Pat dry any remaining water that’s on the car bodywork with a dedicated drying towel.
  • Clean glass, dress tyres and other black plastic trim.
  • Move on to the interior.............
Using the above wash method, my car’s paintwork stays pretty much scratch and swirl-free, although I find some light swirling is inevitable after a period of time, however careful you are. I deal with these light swirls by machine polishing my car every 18-24 months with an appropriate combination of polish and pad on my DA polisher. As any swirling is light because of the ‘safe’ wash method used, I only need to use a light cutting polish, so the amount of clear coat that’s removed in the process is absolutely minimal.

Nice write up. But I know how to clean my car. Most of my scratches was caused by other people's negligence, like moving around the car in tight parking places with bags. Etc.
Still I think my 15 years old toyota had better paint
 

marty_34

Active Member
Apr 21, 2012
1,183
2
TEESSIDE
my current car i have had ceramic coated, the effect has been definite reduction in paint blemishes having owned for around 9 months now

previous car was also coated i had that for 2 years had very minor blemishes and had done 25k miles and plenty of motorway driving
 
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