Rear Brakes Again

[tsmiggy]

Hi.
I am about to change the rear discs. A quick question to anyone who as done this.

Do you do both sides before pumping up the brakes or do you do one side then pump them up
then repeat for the other side. I am not sure if there is a correct way in order to make sure the
handbrake is not affected.

Cheers for any advice

 

[thebrief1979]

Hi.
I am about to change the rear discs. A quick question to anyone who as done this.

Do you do both sides before pumping up the brakes or do you do one side then pump them up
then repeat for the other side. I am not sure if there is a correct way in order to make sure the
handbrake is not affected.

Cheers for any advice

Shouldn’t need to bleed the brakes if it’s a disk and pad change

If it’s a manual handbrake then rewind tool - if not the it’s a vagcom tool

 

[tsmiggy]

Hi.
What i meant was, when i have wound them back. I would have to pump the brakes to bring the pads back up
to the disc, when refitted. Is it best do that one at a time or when both have been refitted, as in both sides

Cheers

 

[TheSwede]

Hi.
What i meant was, when i have wound them back. I would have to pump the brakes to bring the pads back up
to the disc, when refitted. Is it best do that one at a time or when both have been refitted, as in both sides

Cheers

Electronic Parking brakes

I have done change of brake pads one month ago on my sons Golf 7 R according to description below with help of VCDS. I rewind the rear brakes and do side 1 pump on the pedal and then side 2 pump the pedal. Both at the same time but pump the pads for side 1 before I go to side 2.
As we all know Golf 7 and Leon mk3 is the same, both MQB cars.

wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_VII_(5G/AU)_ABS_Brakes#Basic_Setting

/Peter

 

[thebrief1979]

However if you have a manual handbrake then I have always changed both the discs and pads on both sides then pump them

 

[tsmiggy]

It is a manual handbrake,And my thoughts were to do both sides then pump them. Which you have confirmed.

Thanks

 

[Nora2004]

Doesn't make a dot of difference, do 1 side then pump away or do both sides then pump, all your doing is pushing the piston out to take uo the gap you will have created!

The only real thing to take note of is to pump up the brake pedal before you pump the handbrake a few times!

 

[Big Vinny]

In my experience it is best to do both sides completely separately since as you push the caliper pistons back into the caliper the brake fluid level is rising in the brake fluid reservoir. I put paper tissue or an old rag/towel around the brake fluid reservoir neck just in case it overflows out of the top. It's nasty stuff you don't want removing the paint from your bulkhead. Doing the two sides separately gives much less of a fluid level rise in the reservoir - you get the idea !

 

[Walone]

In my experience it is best to do both sides completely separately since as you push the caliper pistons back into the caliper the brake fluid level is rising in the brake fluid reservoir. I put paper tissue or an old rag/towel around the brake fluid reservoir neck just in case it overflows out of the top. It's nasty stuff you don't want removing the paint from your bulkhead. Doing the two sides separately gives much less of a fluid level rise in the reservoir - you get the idea !

Totally agree with this!

 

[Walone]

It is a manual handbrake,And my thoughts were to do both sides then pump them. Which you have confirmed.

Thanks

No, that is not the best thing to do! See Big Vinny's post above.

 

[RUM4MO]

Most of the time I leave the brake fluid level alone as it should never get too low, that means during cleaning up pads etc at one end, it will not be over top while pistons are fully retracted, I tend to replace the fluid at the correct interval for it and that normally means replacing the fluid while replacing the pads - which probably means binning pads before they are at the limit, but that always works for me as I never let the pads wear down more than 75% before replacing them and same for discs, just seems like a logical way of doing things, a bit wasteful maybe, but safe.

 

[black_sheep]

Most of the time I leave the brake fluid level alone as it should never get too low, that means during cleaning up pads etc at one end, it will not be over top while pistons are fully retracted, I tend to replace the fluid at the correct interval for it and that normally means replacing the fluid while replacing the pads - which probably means binning pads before they are at the limit, but that always works for me as I never let the pads wear down more than 75% before replacing them and same for discs, just seems like a logical way of doing things, a bit wasteful maybe, but safe.

The problem is when the fluid is topped up when it’s serviced by someone else; then when you wind the callipers back it overflows.

Concur with previous advice to do one side at a time as others have said above.

 

[tsmiggy]

Hi. Thank you for your help.

Just one more question. Some say remove the caliper holder using 14mm square drive. Some say it can be done without
its removal. If i have to remove this holder, any ideas where i can source such a item, without breaking the bank.

Cheers

 

[RUM4MO]

Hum, that sounds different slightly, the rear calliper carrier is held on with 2 bolts, I've forgotten what head is on them, but the smart money is on replacing them with new bolts, I seem to remember that they have a serrated washer built into the heads and that gets crushed so stops working as a locking surface.

Some people have managed to get the old disc off without removing the carrier bracket, but I've always planned on removing them as getting the new disc in might require you to get quite rough with it if space is really tight!

Edit:- I'd think that the carrier fixing bolts with have multi spline heads.

Another Edit:- you do know that you will need a piston windback tool?

 

[tsmiggy]

Hi. I do have a wind back tool,i have everything i need except the square drive for the two 14mm Bolts, but if i can get away without removing the
bolts, then that would be my preferred option.What i am trying to prevent, is having the car in a position to do the job, then find i do not have
the correct stuff to do it.

 

[Walone]

Hi. Thank you for your help.

Just one more question. Some say remove the caliper holder using 14mm square drive. Some say it can be done without
its removal. If i have to remove this holder, any ideas where i can source such a item, without breaking the bank.

Cheers

This is what I bought for doing the rear discs on my previous car Golf mk6, but didn't need it as the discs cleared the carriers ok because they were small discs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-1...43245459cf75c82efdf443c7bbd02048df3af63f#rwid

 

[LouG]

It makes no difference, hydraulic force is self equalling.