Clogged up Intake Valve Cleaning - 1.4 TSI EA211 CHPA

gaffer1986

Active Member
Just thought I'd share this with you, I'm making a three part video for cleaning the intake valves using 3 different methods to see if any or all of them work.

I've made and posted the first 2 videos with plans to make the third video using the walnut blast method soon. The videos include visual inspections of the valves and a power run before and after the cleaning process.

The car has had a new cylinder head at 60,000 miles due to a manufacturing fault and oil usage. The car now uses little to no oil and has 150,000 miles on it. Interestingly enough, I've kept a fuelly log since the car was new and the trip computer used to over estimate my mpg fuel consumption by 5% but now the fuel consumption claimed is near enough Identical to what I actually get, it has got more accurate as the mileage has got higher.

Here are the links:



Also here is an oil extractor video on a EA211 engine, it doesn't get all the oil and I really tried my best to get as much as possible, so don't change your oil this way. However I have used this machine on the EA888 and got nearly all the oil, so depends on the engine.

 

LouG

Active Member
Dec 1, 2017
1,319
481
Nelson, New Zealand
Just thought I'd share this with you, I'm making a three part video for cleaning the intake valves using 3 different methods to see if any or all of them work.

I've made and posted the first 2 videos with plans to make the third video using the walnut blast method soon. The videos include visual inspections of the valves and a power run before and after the cleaning process.

The car has had a new cylinder head at 60,000 miles due to a manufacturing fault and oil usage. The car now uses little to no oil and has 150,000 miles on it. Interestingly enough, I've kept a fuelly log since the car was new and the trip computer used to over estimate my mpg fuel consumption by 5% but now the fuel consumption claimed is near enough Identical to what I actually get, it has got more accurate as the mileage has got higher.

Here are the links:



Also here is an oil extractor video on a EA211 engine, it doesn't get all the oil and I really tried my best to get as much as possible, so don't change your oil this way. However I have used this machine on the EA888 and got nearly all the oil, so depends on the engine.


I'm with you on oil extraction. Why bother when doing an oil change the old fashioned way is so easy?
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
I'm with you on oil extraction. Why bother when doing an oil change the old fashioned way is so easy?

I am guessing that it has to do with H&S, though typically form any work sheets I've seen for the 1.2TSI 16V engines, there is an instruction to drain via the sump plug only, so maybe the perceived H&S issue was not important enough to enforce.

I too bought an oil extractor, I thought that was a brilliant thing to do, but tried it out on a late 2009 Ibiza 1.4 16V and ran out of patience after maybe 30 minutes, now I could use it on my motor mower, but then I'd only have extracted 0.5 litre of oil and have to spend lots of time cleaning up my extractor - so "F" that, I just use a large sort of syringe extractor for that as it takes next to no time to clean afterwards!
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
Just thought I'd share this with you, I'm making a three part video for cleaning the intake valves using 3 different methods to see if any or all of them work.

I've made and posted the first 2 videos with plans to make the third video using the walnut blast method soon. The videos include visual inspections of the valves and a power run before and after the cleaning process.

The car has had a new cylinder head at 60,000 miles due to a manufacturing fault and oil usage. The car now uses little to no oil and has 150,000 miles on it. Interestingly enough, I've kept a fuelly log since the car was new and the trip computer used to over estimate my mpg fuel consumption by 5% but now the fuel consumption claimed is near enough Identical to what I actually get, it has got more accurate as the mileage has got higher.

Yup, I'm sure walnut shell blasting directly into the inlet area is the only way unfortunately - which is annoying! I've noticed slight deposits of oil ending up in that charge pipe, it will always happen due to the misting collected from the crankcase purging and is what is causing the coking/choking the inlet valve areas.

The general belief is I think, that coking/choking of the inlet valve areas is only really a big issue for non turbo high output GDI engines, like some of the Audi S and RS ones, on TSI/TFSI engines, the fact that the inlet air is being pressurised diminishes some of the losses - but I do agree that coking/choking is never desirable, it does worry me a bit, my Audi S4 is only at just over 25K so should last okay within my ownership, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI might be more of an issue as it will end up having a lot more miles on it before we move it on. Most complaint seem to come from people that use high out GDI engined cars almost entirely for short inner city commutes, which is not really what these cars were built to do.

Edit:- of course this coking/choking is worse for GDI engines that don't have supplementary port or multi point injection. Unfortunately neither of our cars have supplementary port injection.
 
Last edited:

Big Vinny

Active Member
Oct 14, 2012
213
43
Yes RUM4MO I'm with you on this one. I am looking quite seriously at oil catch cans. There are plenty available on eBay. The idea being the recirculated blow by oil vapour/droplets are caught in a container rather than being sprayed back into the combustion chamber. You empty the can every now and again.

We have a non turbo Skoda Citigo 1.0 we could use as a test bed. As the Skoda is non turbo and used as a runaround it's definitely in the at risk category.
 

Sharpy

This place has cost me a fortune....
Oct 2, 2018
957
486
I use an oil extractor, mainly just to get the bulk of it out as it always goes everywhere when you take the sump plug out. Just leaves a residual amount from the sump which makes it easier! That said it does leave quite a bit in the sump so its not ideal.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
I remember, I think that it was a Ford Fiesta that had the sump plug directly in line with the welded folded edge of the crossmember - now first time I changed the oil in that, the oil certainly flew about quite a bit, all later oil changes involved deflecting the oil with folded up newspaper!

For another good reason, draining via the sump plug kind off forces you to be aware of what is down there on a car, so you can check all the areas that also need checking when servicing a car - ie the under cover gets removed and exposes more as well as you maybe accidentally getting face to face with lots of other areas!
 
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LouG

Active Member
Dec 1, 2017
1,319
481
Nelson, New Zealand
I've done thousands of oil changes over the years, trade and at home, I survived them all. H&S my arse. Do the safety nazis think someone might burn their little pinky winky's?
PS. If you have a magnetic sump plug you'll never find out of there's debris in the sump if you use an extractor.
 
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Lozzy15

Mods mods mods
Staff member
Moderator
Mar 24, 2015
570
376
Ilkeston, Derbyshire
This is the very reason I fitted an oil catch can to my system while it's still in its virginity (14k miles). Interesting video's to watch though.
 
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