Driver window dropped. Help!

g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
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my driver window is stuck fully open this morning. I’m in the process of taking it all apart.
Do I need to remove the window regulator from the metal door card to get the door card off completely or does the whole card plus window bits come off in one piece??
FFC669F0-9B5E-488A-A828-1ABDE56891B8.jpeg
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
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Kent
The motor doesn't have to be removed from the regulator but I like to as it gives you the ability to slide the glass up and down freely if you've already disconnected the power or switch.

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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
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Kent
I can see you've already unbolted the regulator panel from the door, have you removed the 2x glass clamps though?

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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Motor disconnected but I’m in a whole state of fubar. The glass is at the bottom and even when I had power the sliders are in the boottom position. Should the whole card be removable with glass in situ??
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
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Kent
Ok sounds like the actual regulator is ******.

Basically you need to slide the glass to high enough to access the 2x 10mm bolts clamping the regulator to the glass through the black rubber grommets.
Once undone (not fully removed) you then slide the glass out of the door opening and away from the car.
Once that's away the regulator panel will come out completely apart from needing to disconnect the door lock mechanism wiring harness.

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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Ok. I’m making progress. I drilled out the speaker rivets to access the glass. Glass pushed up and selotaped to the door frame. Just trying to get the door lock wiring connector off and then the door card is free. What a ball ache!!
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
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Shame you weren't closer, I can remove these things so quickly now.

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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Door card off. The glass mounting bracket on one side snapped in the process.
DCCCAA00-E60E-457A-AC36-5D169E9D9B7B.jpeg
Motor works fine, so I assume this bit is busted:
9937A9A4-FA69-4911-B8E6-FD022A99F5AE.jpeg
What are the best options? Do I just get an aftermarket on from ECP or should I be considered genuine £££??
 

g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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How much and how quick can you post is the question? And is it wise replacing something like this with another 15yr old part??
 

hilly81

Active Member
Apr 28, 2014
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43
Little Sutton
Door card off. The glass mounting bracket on one side snapped in the process.
View attachment 10623
Motor works fine, so I assume this bit is busted:
View attachment 10622
What are the best options? Do I just get an aftermarket on from ECP or should I be considered genuine £££??
I replaced one of these on my old Passat. Not difficult to do but ridiculously fiddly to do right. Getting the correct tension etc. I almost gave up. My advice, allow plenty of time and be ready to persevere.
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
1,037
Kent
You can buy repair kits but for the cost, time involved and amount of faffing around I'd always opt to replace the complete regulator carrier panel.

Many aftermarket ones are **** and / or involve drilling the rail rivets out.
Far too much unnecessary effort imo.

I sell various regs weekly and never had a problems with used ones.

Its normally obvious if its damaged in any way or the cable is looking fragile.

I sent these 4 out on Wednesday as it happens.
d04495f846c35cbc461ea585b9e19bb9.jpg


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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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311
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Temporary repair done. Glass selotaped up and Sainsbury’s bag for a water seal:clap:. @Thai-wronghorse is sorting me out with new bits.
Later I’ll post up some post mortem photos of why the old regulator failed.

Phew!! Time for a tea break!!
 
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g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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New door card installed but I noticed the some reset/calibration is needed. Currently when the window is closed it comes straight back down afterwards (like the safety feature if someone stuck their fingers in there!!).
Anyone know what the reset procedure is before I start googling a whole load of old wives tales and misinformation??:doh:
 

g60stu

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Feb 9, 2003
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Ok. After much searching forums I was none the wiser. There are instructions in the user manual to reset the auto and rollback functions but these didn’t help.

The behaviour I had was
1) auto down worked
2) auto up didn’t work
3) manual holding the button to close the window caused the safety rollback to kick in just as the window got to the closed (resistance) position.

What did work for me was just pulling the window regulator connector out, cutting the power, with the window in the closed position. Then I performed the procedure from the user manual - lock the door with the key, lock again but hold the lock position for a second or two.

What went wrong initially? Well, I think that when I installed the new regulator, the position was set so that I could access the glass retainer clamps through the rubber grommets. This position would represent the window slightly open, so I think I connected the motor harness and the system powered up in the wrong position. Seems like you really need the window closed position when powered is applied to the motor. Kinda makes sense.

Now it all works! I love the engineering detail that goes into these systems.
 
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