Heaters

Adrian300

Active Member
Jun 10, 2019
259
113
Also as i mentioned initially, the system we used at work sucked all air out of the system 1st, (if it didnt hold pressure there was a leak). Then it gets refilled with the coolant, this way no air is in system. It maybe worthwhile seeing if any garages your way has this type of machine and get them to drain and refill

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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
I missed bits of the plot here, maybe your heater matrix is chocked as that these to be a "popular" issue with Golfs/Leons/Octavias and probably A3s of this age, and that garage flushing the system has forced some "stuff" into the heater matrix, also does that engine have the variable delivery water pump with the sliding sleeve - they caused quite a bit of bother as well.
Getting that garage to try to resolve any trapped ait issue must be the next step for you.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,784
983
South Scotland
It's a long shot but it may sort it. Squeeze any coolant pipes you can see/get to. While doing so be careful with any moving parts. As said there is probably a correct way of dealing with airlock. Older cars used to have air bleeding screws you'd undo until they flowed with coolant and then close. I very much doubt these cars have those, as I said previously I thought these would be self-bleeding.

Self bleeding is the plan, but with certain engines, or coolant system layouts, it does not seem to work, some Audis have a hole drilled in some of the pipe stubs to aid with getting rid of trapped air, but most proper garages should be aware of this and apply a vacuum to the system so that they get a "good" coolant refill first time and so no time wasted by them or their customers.
 
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Lozzy15

Mods mods mods
Staff member
Moderator
Mar 24, 2015
570
376
Ilkeston, Derbyshire
There would appear to be a correct way of refilling the system that requires various tools and equipment to do. This is taken from the workshop manual:
Filling with coolant: – Open valve -B- by setting lever in direction of flow. • The suction-jet pump reduces pressure in the cooling system to below atmospheric pressure. The display instrument needle must move to the green area. – Also briefly open valve -A- (turn lever in direction of flow to do this) so that hose on -VAS 6096- coolant reservoir fills with coolant. – Close valve -A- again. – Leave valve -B- open for a further 2 minutes. • The suction-jet pump will continue generating a vacuum in the cooling system. The pointer of the indicator must remain in the green zone. – Close valve -B-. • The needle on the gauge must stay in the green zone. The low pressure in the cooling system is then sufficient for subse‐ quent filling. Note ♦ If the needle does not reach the green zone, repeat the proc‐ ess. ♦ If vacuum drops, cooling system must be checked for leaks. ♦ The subsequent filling must be performed »slowly«. – Detach the compressed air hose. – Open valve -A- slowly. • Vacuum in cooling system causes coolant to be extracted from -VAS 6096- coolant reservoir and coolant system to be filled. • The coolant level must be above the max. marking after filling. – Remove cooling system charge unit - VAS 6096- from coolant expansion tank. – Fill coolant up to max. mark. – Install noise insulation ⇒ General body repairs, exterior; Rep. gr. 66 ; Noise insulation; Assembly overview - noise insula‐ tion . – On vehicles with auxiliary heater, switch on auxiliary heater for about 30 seconds. – Set temperature regulator to “HI”. – Switch off air conditioner compressor. To do this, press AC button. • LED in button should not light up. – Start engine and run it for max. 2 min. at a speed of approx. 1500 rpm. – Fill coolant up to the overflow hole of the coolant expansion tank while the engine is running. – Tighten cap of coolant expansion tank until it engages. – Then run engine at idling speed until radiator fan cuts in. Ateca 2017 ➤ , León 2013 ➤ , León ST 2013 ➤ 4-cylinder petrol engine (2.0 l with direct injection, 4 V, turbocharger, timing chain, EA 888 III Generation BZ) - Edition 07.2018 1. Cooling system/coolant 211 Protected by copyright. Copying for private or commercial purposes, in part or in whole, is not permitted unless authorised by SEAT S.A. SEAT S.A does not guarantee or accept any liability with respect to the correctness of information in this document. Copyright by SEAT S.A. – Check coolant level. • When the engine is at operating temperature, the coolant level must be at the »weld seam« -arrow-. • When the engine is cold, the coolant level must be approx. 5 mm above the max. mark -arrow-. Note This excessive amount of coolant level is necessary since the coolant level may decrease automatically due to bleeding process

I don't expect that to make much sense to you, but the last bit indicates it is done this way to avoid airlocks. By the looks of it they create a vacuum in the system be filling to prevent them from happening.
 

Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
Does anyone know much about fault codes? I've got this: "00056 0038 temperature sensor blower in the cabin". Might sound stupid, but what's the chances of these 2 being related and it not being the thermostat or air in the system?
 

LouG

Active Member
Dec 1, 2017
1,319
481
Nelson, New Zealand
Waterpump wasnt replaced just the seals had hardened. I'm worried the thermostat has gone. If so, that's another big bill to sort in the same month it was apparently fixed
I'd be surprised if the pumps are serviceable, that's very unusual these days. It'd cost more to pay labour changing seals than a new pump.
 

Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
I'd be surprised if the pumps are serviceable, that's very unusual these days. It'd cost more to pay labour changing seals than a new pump.
It didnt cost more to change the seals though. Seals were £45, pump removed and refitted for £120.
 

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
Does anyone know much about fault codes? I've got this: "00056 0038 temperature sensor blower in the cabin". Might sound stupid, but what's the chances of these 2 being related and it not being the thermostat or air in the system?
Not sure what.code that is. Is the a P0 code and.also is it two.codes I.e P00056 and P0038

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Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
Don't see how they would be linked. As this appears to be an issue with your o2 sensor aka lambda sensor.

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I'm wrong then as it said temperature sensor in cabin on the description on carista.
 

Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
Update:

Took the car to CLP Automotive on friday for a few bits to be done, including the vents looking at. They flushed the system and found a few air locks that were causing the issue. They've changed the coolant and it's all working fine again. So glad I have warmth again.

Thanks for the replies.
 

Adrian300

Active Member
Jun 10, 2019
259
113
Thought it would be airlocks that was causing this issue glad its all sorted!

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everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
Update:

Took the car to CLP Automotive on friday for a few bits to be done, including the vents looking at. They flushed the system and found a few air locks that were causing the issue. They've changed the coolant and it's all working fine again. So glad I have warmth again.

Thanks for the replies.
Glad it's sorted mate and we'll done.for reporting back the issue.sometime.ppl forget too. Do you knowing they used any special procedure to bleed the system or just old school methods on squeezing pipes etc

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Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
Glad it's sorted mate and we'll done.for reporting back the issue.sometime.ppl forget too. Do you knowing they used any special procedure to bleed the system or just old school methods on squeezing pipes etc

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They flushed the system and said they'd found air leaks. Not entirely sure what was involved tbh.
 
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Joedj9

Active Member
Aug 30, 2018
63
8
Well I did think this was 100% resolved but it turns out it isn't. Been out tonight and the heaters are playing up again. They were chilly for ages before going slightly warm. I turned them down to speed 3 and they became quite warm. Whenever I turned them up to full blast it was blowing out normal temperature air.

Anyone want to buy a cupra? I hate this car with a passion. Starting to wish I'd kept my focus now
 

everson38

Active Member
May 15, 2017
470
35
walsall
Well I did think this was 100% resolved but it turns out it isn't. Been out tonight and the heaters are playing up again. They were chilly for ages before going slightly warm. I turned them down to speed 3 and they became quite warm. Whenever I turned them up to full blast it was blowing out normal temperature air.

Anyone want to buy a cupra? I hate this car with a passion. Starting to wish I'd kept my focus now
I believe that's normal. Not sure of the science but on my cars ( which are not seats) when on fully blast they are not as warm as when running on lower settings. Someone correct.me.if.im.wrong.

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