Newbie from Warwickshire

Elliman98

Active Member
Aug 22, 2016
16
4
Hello all, been knocking around on the forum for a year or so continuously now, reading through and getting info/ help from previous threads etc. but thought it was time to finally say hello!
From Warwick/ Leamington, only down the road from Caffeine and Machine so likely i'll be going to the meet there next year :cheers:. Bit of a youngen so paying through the earth to insure my mk2 cupra! Qualified technician at a mainstream dealer so luckily have the use of a ramp in the evenings and weekends etc, so fitted every part and serviced the car myself. Own a Leon Cupra 2007 PFL in red, not my first choice of colour but very happy with it!

Modifications so far include:
  • eBay decat downpipe + midpipe with a Piper non res catback and 4" tips, (Trim for cupraR exhaust from Maxton Designs) have since put in a 16" long resonator to try and quiten it down a bit as it was obnoxiously loud! (Have a revving clip of how it was when straight through)
  • Alloy intercooler from eBay, standard positioning behind the AC condenser so not quite a proper front mount like the welly coolers etc
  • Stance+ street coilovers with new top mounts, drop links, all fresh oem bolts etc
  • 15mm rear spacers, 10mm front
  • Ramair intake, will be purchasing the oversized one soon, as I learnt about this after I bought the standard size one out of excitement :whistle:
  • R8 coilpacks along side NGK BKR7EIX plugs
  • MTEC dimpled and grooved discs with Mintex pads up front, haven't changed the rears yet
  • eBay short shift
Also have rfd kit, rs4 fprv, vis hpfp internals to fit. Will have these fitted when it eventually goes to R-Tech for stage 2+ as i'll get them to walnut blast the intake, test and clean the injectors and fit everything at the same time. Just done an oil service and also changed the pick up pipe.

May start a builders ride thread soon to document everything, however its been a very slow build process so far due to funds so still not sure about bothering yet! :(

That's it from me for now!
Joe
 
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Legojon

I only wanted a remap
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 7, 2015
5,284
2,713
Hi. Yeah, def get a readers ride going especially if you have loads of build pics. I assume your holding off on the 2+ cause of the insurance? Having been to R-tech for the 2+ this week, I'd def recommend the wellycooler.
 

Elliman98

Active Member
Aug 22, 2016
16
4
Hi. Yeah, def get a readers ride going especially if you have loads of build pics. I assume your holding off on the 2+ cause of the insurance? Having been to R-tech for the 2+ this week, I'd def recommend the wellycooler.
Yep think I will do. Holding off more because of funds really, due to the amount of work I want them to do, plus the remap cost on top it all adds up. I’d like to have an rts clutch and f/wheel fitted before all of this as well, as far as I can see it’s still on the original ones (no receipts etc and @ 97k miles), and obviously won’t be able to handle the torque regardless. So got big payments to save for! I’ve only recently fitted the intercooler and it was a pain in the butt that I don’t really want to go through again, so if it becomes a bottleneck then so be it (to a certain extent), unless they say it’s really bad then I’ll have a look at going down the welly cooler route. With these I’ve only really seen issues with the black painted ones not dissipating the heat efficiently? so this being bare alloy with no paint I’m hoping won’t be too bad?
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 7, 2015
5,284
2,713
Yeah, I'd say for 2+ you'd def need an uprated clutch. I'm running Helix, but at the time it was Helix or Sachs. RTS seem to be the in brand at the moment, if I did it again, I'd likely go RTS. I think it depends on if it's been painted black (As the paint restricts the airflow - depending on how thick it's been sprayed). But if it's anodised (think that's the right term) black then it shouldn't be any different to the bare alloy.
 

Elliman98

Active Member
Aug 22, 2016
16
4
Yeah, just think for the price the RTS is more suited for me especially when people are saying its got an oem feel as this is my daily! Yeah sounds about right to me, mines just bare alloy with no paint so i'm hoping it'll be ok. Oversized ramair will be here tomorrow so that'll keep me entertained over Christmas. Will start a readers ride thread soon
 
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bigT's lcr

Delete. Beat. Repeat...
Feb 27, 2016
1,216
731
Leeds
Yep think I will do. Holding off more because of funds really, due to the amount of work I want them to do, plus the remap cost on top it all adds up. I’d like to have an rts clutch and f/wheel fitted before all of this as well, as far as I can see it’s still on the original ones (no receipts etc and @ 97k miles), and obviously won’t be able to handle the torque regardless. So got big payments to save for! I’ve only recently fitted the intercooler and it was a pain in the butt that I don’t really want to go through again, so if it becomes a bottleneck then so be it (to a certain extent), unless they say it’s really bad then I’ll have a look at going down the welly cooler route. With these I’ve only really seen issues with the black painted ones not dissipating the heat efficiently? so this being bare alloy with no paint I’m hoping won’t be too bad?
Welcome to the forum. They're some sweet mods man. My 2 pence worth is that i ummed n aahed about painting my big forge fmic because of "like you said" cooling restrictions. Untill i read a thread where they tested a blank fmic against a painted one and the blank worked at 100% and the painted one worked at 97% cooling so tbh i dont think theres alot init if your more aesthetically minded and your not tuning the bollloks of it and going big turbo ect then get it painted mate. I hand painted the solid pieces then gave the cooling fins a light coat from a rattle can. But turned out id done the wrong side so had to do it again lol
 
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