Vagsport high intake package pros & cons

Stephen Booth

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Nov 3, 2019
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Clutches die in cars, tell the mrs it was just dumb luck and that you bought a better one so it didn’t happen again.


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Man logic ! You can’t go wrong Love it, but still be a proper ball breaker ! Lol
 
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Stephen Booth

Active Member
Nov 3, 2019
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43
Essex
So I’ve been out for a blast this morning as it is dry round my way and defo feels less torquey than standard with the VAGSPORT parts, why would that be ? In my limited tuning mind more air that is less turbulent should equal more go lol , and that the ecu would detect more air and fuel accordingly ? I see earlier in the tread that someone mentioned it would loose torque in low end but gain in the mid upper end ?.
 

mty12345

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Jun 17, 2011
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So I’ve been out for a blast this morning as it is dry round my way and defo feels less torquey than standard with the VAGSPORT parts, why would that be ? In my limited tuning mind more air that is less turbulent should equal more go lol , and that the ecu would detect more air and fuel accordingly ? I see earlier in the tread that someone mentioned it would loose torque in low end but gain in the mid upper end ?.

At low engine speeds, turbulent air is desirable to promote good fuel mixing.
 
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Tonezz

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Jan 12, 2011
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So I’ve been out for a blast this morning as it is dry round my way and defo feels less torquey than standard with the VAGSPORT parts, why would that be ? In my limited tuning mind more air that is less turbulent should equal more go lol , and that the ecu would detect more air and fuel accordingly ? I see earlier in the tread that someone mentioned it would loose torque in low end but gain in the mid upper end ?.

Remember the car is set up from factory with the components it ships out with, so the engine/ecu and sensors etc are set up is for the airflow its shipped with.

All them new parts make it push more air in and they make it less turbulent which can upset the standard set up, potentially just lose power and make everything worse.

You have 2 choices:

Put it back to standard or get a remap and the under bonnet mods will come to life then! (Might as well get an exhaust as well:clap:)
 

Damo H

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Funny you should post that...

https://racingline.shop/racingline-oem-stage-1-tuning-package-seat-leon-mk3-cupra-280-290-300/

That's with the better RTS clutch, although its a different link its the site Sponsor Progressive Parts/VAG Manchester behind the scenes of the site. So from experience I can highly recommend their work.

I suspect @paddy6789 would be better placed to comment on the clutch as I'm DSG.
 

Tonezz

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paddy6789

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Just to add a few things to all of this thread :)

Re: VAGSport intake package pros and cons - I didnt notice any sound increase from inside the car, but you can certainly notice it from the outside. I often got asked if I had a BoV on my car after I fitted it all. I did notice sharper throttle response. However I did also do the pikey R600 mod, changed a few options in OBDEleven and I upgraded the spark plugs and coil packs at the same time. So all of that could contribute to the small difference I felt.

Re: Clutches for manual Cupras - so I'm now on my 4th clutch (including the stock clutch). I went to RacingLine OEM+ Stage one on my stock clutch and had no issues. However I didnt exactly push the car as I read up that people who remapped their cars and had the clutch slip, needed to replace the flywheel, and I was saving up to upgrade the clutch anyway. It paid off as when the stock clutch came off, the flywheel was in perfect condition. I upgraded to the Helix Organic clutch and had issues almost immediately. It was deemed to be a manufacturers defect and was replaced with another Helix Organic. However when the Helix came off, it had taken chunks out of my flywheel so I needed a new one of those. Luckily Helix foot the bill as it was their clutch defect that took it out. A few weeks later, the clutch was slipping again, and went through the exact same process. (I had also followed the Helix recommended bedding in process too on both clutches). The car was not full throttled or put under any hard acceleration on either of these clutches. I had lost faith in Helix so switched to the new RTS Twin Friction clutch which is miles better in my opinion. It has an almost stock feel in the pedal and I've had no slippage. I've had the clutch delay valve removed also, and I will be upgrading to the braided line (which I should have done at the time of the clutch upgrade really). I went to stage 2 a month or so after getting the clutch, I had covered 2000 miles of careful driving and then when I was satisified the bedding period and criteria was met, I tested the car. My god, what a difference it is. I went on the SCN/PP rolling road day and my stage 2 put out 630nm / 465lb ft of torque. The clutch just lapped it all up and showed no sign of letting up. I'm now stage 3, and again, the clutch feels more than capable of coping. However, I will be upgrading to the RTS paddle clutch, which I have felt the pedal of in another Cupra, and it again still feels like the stock clutch. I'm only upgrading as I'm sure my torque levels are at the very limit of the clutch I have now, and I dont want to get another flywheel.

Progressive Parts will certainly look after you and can build you custom packages. They have a price match on their site, and if you contact them directly, you and your car will come away better off :) @PP Gareth, @PP Mark and @PP BennyC can all help you out :)
 

Stephen Booth

Active Member
Nov 3, 2019
37
10
43
Essex
Re: VAGSport intake package pros and cons - I didnt notice any sound increase from inside the car, but you can certainly notice it from the outside. I often got asked if I had a BoV on my car after I fitted it all. I did notice sharper throttle response. However I did also do the pikey R600 mod, changed a few options in OBDEleven and I upgraded the spark plugs and coil packs at the same time. So all of that could contribute to the small difference I felt.

Re: Clutches for manual Cupras - so I'm now on my 4th clutch (including the stock clutch). I went to RacingLine OEM+ Stage one on my stock clutch and had no issues. However I didnt exactly push the car as I read up that people who remapped their cars and had the clutch slip, needed to replace the flywheel, and I was saving up to upgrade the clutch anyway. It paid off as when the stock clutch came off, the flywheel was in perfect condition. I upgraded to the Helix Organic clutch and had issues almost immediately. It was deemed to be a manufacturers defect and was replaced with another Helix Organic. However when the Helix came off, it had taken chunks out of my flywheel so I needed a new one of those. Luckily Helix foot the bill as it was their clutch defect that took it out. A few weeks later, the clutch was slipping again, and went through the exact same process. (I had also followed the Helix recommended bedding in process too on both clutches). The car was not full throttled or put under any hard acceleration on either of these clutches. I had lost faith in Helix so switched to the new RTS Twin Friction clutch which is miles better in my opinion. It has an almost stock feel in the pedal and I've had no slippage. I've had the clutch delay valve removed also, and I will be upgrading to the braided line (which I should have done at the time of the clutch upgrade really). I went to stage 2 a month or so after getting the clutch, I had covered 2000 miles of careful driving and then when I was satisified the bedding period and criteria was met, I tested the car. My god, what a difference it is. I went on the SCN/PP rolling road day and my stage 2 put out 630nm / 465lb ft of torque. The clutch just lapped it all up and showed no sign of letting up. I'm now stage 3, and again, the clutch feels more than capable of coping. However, I will be upgrading to the RTS paddle clutch, which I have felt the pedal of in another Cupra, and it again still feels like the stock clutch. I'm only upgrading as I'm sure my torque levels are at the very limit of the clutch I have now, and I dont want to get another flywheel.

Progressive Parts will certainly look after you and can build you custom packages. They have a price @PP Mark

so in essence what your saying is you had a a stage one re-map and as long as your not a complete plonker with the throttle/ car then the oem clutch should be ok ?
 

Stephen Booth

Active Member
Nov 3, 2019
37
10
43
Essex
So in essence what you are saying is that you had a stage one re/map and as long as you are not a complete plonker with the throttle/car the oem clutch should be fine ?, GAD tuning n Burnham are round the corner to me and I will be discussing about a be-spoke stage one map which livens things up a bit without going mental and hopefully conserving the clutch !
 

paddy6789

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So in essence what you are saying is that you had a stage one re/map and as long as you are not a complete plonker with the throttle/car the oem clutch should be fine ?, GAD tuning n Burnham are round the corner to me and I will be discussing about a be-spoke stage one map which livens things up a bit without going mental and hopefully conserving the clutch !

Well yeah and no lol. A lot of manual drivers have clutch issues without a remap. I think the standard clutches can just about deal with the standard torque. So unless you’re getting a custom map where the top end power is increased without the torque changing, I’d highly recommend you get a new clutch. If you’re able to feel the pedal of an RTS clutch of someone near you, you’ll see how light they are.


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Damo H

Remind me, what's an indicator?
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So in essence what you are saying is that you had a stage one re/map and as long as you are not a complete plonker with the throttle/car the oem clutch should be fine ?, GAD tuning n Burnham are round the corner to me and I will be discussing about a be-spoke stage one map which livens things up a bit without going mental and hopefully conserving the clutch !
As an independent person here. He drove it like a fairy on stage 1 till he got a clutch upgrade.
 
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