Oil change

[OJ9693]

I haven't seen one of the new plastic plugs yet but yes, the washer will be with the plug. On the metal plugs the washer is captive so you can't remove it from the plug. Not easily anyway.

Mine is a 15 plate so i'm hoping it's a metal one and i don't have to replace anything.

I'll jump that hurdle if it comes to it on Saturday.

 

[Mr Pig]

Mine is a 15 plate so i'm hoping it's a metal one and i don't have to replace anything.

You'll need to replace the thing at some point anyway.

 

[BillyCool]

It's not a PITA.

Just because you had an issue with some other part of the car doesn't mean every part is a PITA - or if you find everything is and others don't...

Sorry - didn't mean to offend.

Like I said, "probably" and also referred to the fact that I was was having issues with the waterpump (resulting in premature cambelt change) and also needing a new heater matrix (known issue). That was my justification for being a bit grumpy.

I am also having a new thermostat and housing fitted. In the words of my mechanic "that is a PITA to get to". It's buried under the charge coooler and he had to take the dipstick out. I had to wait just over 2 weeks for the part from TPS as there were none in the UK due to `exceptional demand`. I've been without the car for nearly 4 weeks and it's grinding on me.

Even changing the oil filter isn't that simple.

So, yes - in my opinion, certain parts are a PIAT. Not all of them - just the ones I've mentioned!

 

[OJ9693]

Finished my oil change, I think I need to top it up a little bit more though, I thought 4L the suggested amount would suffice but seems a little more wouldn’t hurt. No leaks (so far) When I started the engine for the first time though there was a slight tapping noise that I didn’t like the sound of, but after letting it run a bit and taking it round the block once oil was at temp, it seemed to disappear, any idea what that could’ve been? Also changed my mirrors to fold on one click on Carista

 

[Mr Pig]

Finished my oil change, I think I need to top it up a little bit more though, I thought 4L the suggested amount would suffice but seems a little more wouldn’t hurt.

You're best to put in a bit less than they say then top it up. Easier to add oil than take it out.

 

[OJ9693]

C

You're best to put in a bit less than they say then top it up. Easier to add oil than take it out.

Very true. Also unscrewing that oil filter by hand was a f*****g Challenge, need to buy one of those proper tools next time, had to G clamp the bugger, just hope the new one is on tight enough!

 

[Mr Pig]

I tighten the filter with a strap wrench. Did by hand years ago and it leaked. No need to go crazy but hand tight might be a bit loose.

 

[OJ9693]

Yeah I think I’ll buy one and tighten it when I get a moment, ease my mind a bit lol

 

[RUM4MO]

Why not buy an alloy filter/removal shallow socket, I always buy one of them as most VW Group filters come with a recommended torque figure printed on them. You always find the first filter from factory is extremely tight in my experience.

Edit:- added "why".
A much later Edit:- I don't know why I previously added a "why" and didn't correct my posting to make a bit more sense - sorted now!

 

[OJ9693]

Can you not buy an alloy filter/removal shallow socket, I always buy one of them as most VW Group filters come with a recommended torque figure printed on them. You always find the first filter from factory is extremely tight in my experience.

What does that look like? I managed to get my two wheels on a brick each and get under the car just about with both hands and tighten it so it probably will need tightening.

whoever put it on before was extremely strong or used a similar tool to what you said

Edit: like the pic attached?

 

[RUM4MO]

Yes kind of, that type is smaller and used to take plastic covers of oil filters that are just elements without a tin can outer casing.

Maybe look up the Mann website to see what they offer for your actual filter type, that gives you a starter to home in on other cheaper suppliers of a tool for that filter.

Edit:- try to give up on the bricks below the wheels though, solid wood is much safer or proper axle stands that suit the folded sill areas. Bricks can and will break quickly and then you could be in trouble.

 

[OJ9693]

Yes kind of, that type is smaller and used to take plastic covers of oil filters that are just elements without a tin can outer casing.

Maybe look up the Mann website to see what they offer for your actual filter type, that gives you a starter to home in on other cheaper suppliers of a tool for that filter.

Edit:- try to give up on the bricks below the wheels though, solid wood is much safer or proper axle stands that suit the folded sill areas. Bricks can and will break quickly and then you could be in trouble.

I will look into that thanks v much.
Well I knew it was a bit dodgy but it’s all I had, i was worried every time I rolled under the car haha. I will invest in some stands also for next time round.

 

[RUM4MO]

I've just checked on the Mann website and the filter for a 1.5TSI 150PS engine is the same as the filter for a 1.2TSI 110PS engine so that makes it a Mann W712/95 and the official Mann tool is LS7, Laser Tool 3801 is the same ie 74mm 14 face removal tool. It is the Laser Tools 3801 that I bought for my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI maybe online from "the tool academy" - but somewhere else online might equal/beat their price.

 

[OJ9693]

I've just checked on the Mann website and the filter for a 1.5TSI 150PS engine is the same as the filter for a 1.2TSI 110PS engine so that makes it a Mann W712/95 and the official Mann tool is LS7, Laser Tool 3801 is the same ie 74mm 14 face removal tool. It is the Laser Tools 3801 that I bought for my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI maybe online from "the tool academy" - but somewhere else online might equal/beat their price.

Thank you very much, i have found a few but they all seem to be in china, i think i'll wait a while until i order one from there

 

[RUM4MO]

Under £11 for the genuine Laser Tools version from The Tool Academy :- https://www.thetoolacademy.com/laser-3801-oil-filter-wrench-74mm-x-14-flutes-1507-p.asp

I've been there done that wrt ordering bits and trying to avoid buying from China, not cheapest price and not long delivery time - wrong both times, sealed package airmailed from China then without opening, new Royal Mail labeling stuck over that - very very annoying, but so far no ill effects from that.

The "common sense" is that anything coming in from China can not pose any health risk due to the extended transit time - maybe good plan for in the past, but now a seller in China can get items through your letter box as fast as if not quicker than a lot of traditional UK suppliers!!

 

[OJ9693]

Under £11 for the genuine Laser Tools version from The Tool Academy :- https://www.thetoolacademy.com/laser-3801-oil-filter-wrench-74mm-x-14-flutes-1507-p.asp

I've been there done that wrt ordering bits and trying to avoid buying from China, not cheapest price and not long delivery time - wrong both times, sealed package airmailed from China then without opening, new Royal Mail labeling stuck over that - very very annoying, but so far no ill effects from that.

The "common sense" is that anything coming in from China can not pose any health risk due to the extended transit time - maybe good plan for in the past, but now a seller in China can get items through your letter box as fast as if not quicker than a lot of traditional UK suppliers!!

Agreed, i ordered an engine cover from AliExpress in Jan and it's still delayed for departure now! For the sake of a few quid I think i'll just purchase one from The Tool Academy. Cheers and stay safe!

 

[jakimpt]

Hi everyone!
Can someone tell me if it is recommended to put the car down flat while getting drained the oil from the drain plug and the oil filter?

Also, should we run the engine like for 2min to get the oil slightly warm before draining it? Or is it OK to do it cold?

Thanks

 

[cupra14]

Flat is best but don't over-stress - you never get all the old out. Warmed is good as it flows out quicker but again it's not important.

Try not to overfill or underfill LOL

Changing the oil & filter is what really matters. Hmm, the right specification of oil, too.

 

[RUM4MO]

I agree with the above, but, I usually raise the front of the car when the drain plug is at the rear of the sump, another reason for doing that it, normally, you do not get enough room to reach under a modern car to remove the under tray and with some cars then reach the oil filter. So, you either need to raise the complete car up by maybe 6" to 9" to gain comfortable access, or just raise the front up - raising just the front, for me, is easier as I have long wide solid wooden ramps, although I do actually have 4 in total, still easier just to use 2. Refilling the sump with 0.5 litre less than the engine's quoted oil capacity, has always worked for me. Then while still up on the ramps, run the engine for a few minutes to prove that there are no leaks at the drain plug and oil filter sealing areas. Then drive back off the ramps, place them out of the way and drive forward so that the car is now sitting level, switch the engine off, do all the tidying up of waste oil, ramps and tools, then recheck the engine oil level and add more oil in as required - job done.

Edit:- I always remove the oil filler cap and dip stick when draining engine oil.

 

[Cupra306Form]

Can't beat an oil and filter change for protecting the motoer. OJ - Well done for having a go, and obviously deciding you can, and will do it again!!

Beware though!! - DANGER ALERT !!! It has become my job to oil change wife and daughters cars as and when required!

You might not want to advertise your new skills!!