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I did the clutch on mine just over 3 months ago, can't see the difference between the cupra and cupra R both being 6 speed but subframe stayed in, bit of a nack getting the box out though, the diff is in the way of the subframe so needs pulling over and out then the box comes through the gap at...

Try connecting red with yellow and yellow with red, iirc they are swapped round on the seat, the fact you loosing your settings is saying you cut all power to the unit and the fact both cables are connected to yellow would suggest that it is intact the switched live.

Go on Ross techs website, look at their uk distributors and check who's doing the best deal at the moment, there's only about 5 to choose from iirc so you won't be there all day.

Check the battery has charge, check battery leads, if it doesn't even have power to things like interior lights when the doors are open then I'd say your problem is hopefully an easyish fix and it'll be something to do with around the battery area.

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/uniroyal/rainsport-2/225-45-r17-91w-331571 ;) Don't forget there dot rating is 2012, basically if your not already aware then they are 3 years old already, a tyres "recommended" life is about 5-6 years so if you plan on doing high miles then go for them...

Uniroyal rainsport 3's are a brilliant all round tyre, i'v ran them on my cupra with no traction issues, i'v ran them on my stage 2 tuned e39 530d without any issues, I ran the rain sport 2's on my stage 2 Passat TDI and they where more biased to wet weather but still a very good tyre. If money...

Lots of products throughout the car, main ones where megs UC, accompanied with poorboys black hole, all with a DA, also some wet and dry in some areas that haven't faired as well to everyday use like the bumper just beneath the boot to remove some of the harsher scratches, then AG bumper care...

well time has come to let the leon go, iv really enjoyed driving it, and I'll be quite sad to see it go, but needs must as it didn't do everything I needed from a daily driver and iv already got something for the weekends, spent the most of a couple of days getting it ready for the new owner...

You might get away without an abs bleed, as it's only the MC your taking off, if you can try to undo the lines and keep them full of fluid, bleed the MC the any air left between the MC and when you joined the lines back up should in theory go up into the MC and you can then bleed the last bit...

Maybe a bit late now but heat up and bend a 11mm spanner the open end bent 90*, this will get the unions undone much easier under the MC, it'll save you so much time, it's not a bad job apart from that and don't forget the ABS bleed procedure with VCDS just in case your unaware :)

Cars have been written off for a lot less damage than that, as Andy cupra says it'll get pushed way over by the insurance company, it's all a licence to print money, I used to work in an insurance repair Center ;) I know some of the stuff that goes on, and there was probably a lot more behind...

You may even find its just your tyres squeeling, iv done that once or twice when really giving it the beans and changing fast :)

Your welcome ;)

Diesel MOT's don't test the cats efficiency like they do on petrol cars, they only test for soot particles, diesels come out the factory with a cat fitted, but revving the cat makes no difference to the current emmisions test, but they have now brought a new part in that states it needs to be...

For the fronts I find a strong screwdriver wedged into the caliper and lever against the brake disc to fully push back the piston before you unbolt it makes life easier.

Have you checked for play on inner CV joints, as they can cause some serious shaking.

From what's been said by a member that's used it in his car on another forum, they only got 5k on a N/A 5 series before it started to break down, I wouldn't know what the recommended changes would be on a 1.8t though.

It's not the turbo making contact with the housing is it? Sometimes it can be described as a siren noise.

If it's a 4 pin sensor, and guessing it is as the updated one is he green sensor then yes, it has 2 sensors in it, one for Ecu and one for cluster.

I'd say it's safer to pull the 4 pin plug off the coil itself than pull the coil up whilst it's running, if it zaps you by accident it'll hurt, if it ran worse with number 2 coil off the that's not your problem, the car will run the same as it is with all four connected when you find the broken...