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No worries my guy, just sit back, plant the right foot and sail away!

Hi Dani, I too have a 'stage 2' cupra which, according to my dyno graph produces 24psi at 3300 revs then sits in the 20+psi range until 4800 revs, then falls off to 12psi at 6600 revs. comparing this to my boost gauge, it isn't too far off but its tricky driving with one eye on the road lol. I...

I'd just connect 1 nipple to dv and other nipple to fpr without a t piece, untill you get a new one with a bung. Has your car been re-mapped? whats the boost gauge reading?

Firstly, there are two nipples under the inlet manifold, one for the FPR and one for the vacuum reservoir for the N249. If you've done the "bypass" correctly, the top nipple of the 008p should be going to one of the nipples under the manifold and the other should be going to the FPR. It is...

Hi all, I've noticed that when I shift from 2nd to 3rd high in the rev range theres a very audible crunch/grind. It is not noticeable lower than 3k revs or from a cold start like the typical 1st to 2nd. The car is on 108k miles, may it be time for a re-con'd box? or is there some magic gear...

I am also having this trouble and done exactly what you have. I concluded that it is the water pump. Check the return flow of coolant back to the reservoir globe. Do this by removing the small return pipe on the globe, holding it into the reservoir have someone start the car. Let it Idle, take...

I'm in a similar position my self right now, however my car is fine at idle and only over heats when under serious load (hills) or going for an over take. But as quickly as the needle rises it settles back to 90deg when I let off the throttle. When the car over heats the fans kick in for less...

I've only read that the shim install works for a whiney 3rd and 5th whilst decelerating. If yours whines in 3rd like that then do the install. if it fixes the 1st to 2nd crunch then win win

The 1st to 2nd crunch is pretty common, especially on cold starts. I changed the oil and it didn't make much difference. If it really bothers you, you could try double clutching that shift, I found it helped but got tiresome.

When I was in your situation I used a water vacuum cleaner to get the worst of the water out. I hadn't considered a de-humidifier, but as the worst of the wet weather had passed I let it dry naturally. Then when I was happy with it I cleaned the carpets to take away the damp smell.

yeah looks like it: http://bolawheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Seat_Leon_Cupra_SPF_B10.jpg

nope, just remove everything of the old worn bush and grease the polybush to make it go in easier.

Regarding the fault code, does your car sound like a hoover when you first start it up? If it does, it could be that the SAI pump case has split and will need fixing or replacing. This link explains: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=326292 However, I've had that fault code pop...

Oh yeah, the positives outweigh the small irritations.

Initially there wasn't any issues, a few months later after its all "settled" in there is a rattle from the either the cat or downpipe (due to the increase in size and lack of space). Also, as the car has been lowerd 40mm, with a full load going over abrupt speed bumps the rear beam knocks on...

Not specifically in Cheshire but South wales, I paid £700 for a stainless steel 3" turbo back system with 200 cel sports cat. Without the cat it would of cost around £400. Looking at online prices at similar systems will give a rough guide as to what to expect to pay.

If its from the air filter side it could be a spilt pipe. Have a look around the coolant temp sensor (CTS). A mate of mine had exactly the same symptoms as your car and his CTS housing had split.

If you're going to R-tech then I guess you'll see 240+hp, not to sure how true the 260hp is as most say the Ko3s turbo runs out of puff around 250hp. Have a chat with badger 5 when your there getting your cooler fitted.

Depends on where you go for the custom map, but most stage 2 remaps usually produce around 230 to 240hp and 280ish lb/ft. R-tech have seen figures close to 260hp but thats been with "decent flowing setups"

Yeah thats typical of thermostat trouble, possibly the coolant temp sensor too.