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Go for the "Comfort" settings, 2.2 BAR (32 psi) Front, 2.0 (29 psi) Rear if it's just driver + 1. The other values are aimed at maximising fuel economy for testing and certification purposes or prolonged high speed running (which the car isn't capable of). If you are going on holiday and have...

Mine last 3 years almost to the day, I've just put the second replacement in.

A leak in the cabin heater matrix is the first place to look as it located in that area.

Are your tyre pressures set to the recommended values? These are usually too high imo and exacerbate any tramlining. Drop them to the Comfort values and see how that goes.

Gave it a wash. The Turtle Wax Hybrid ceramic products I used at the beginning of September have just about stopped beading. Over 6 months protection, not bad considering we've had lots of rain and filthy roads around here, then 6 weeks where there was salt on the roads and decent amounts...

All the cars I've ever owned have had a good quality mechanical tyre pressure guage in the glove box. Tyre pressures need to be correct, on my little FR its like driving on ice when they are pumped to the "dealer standard" 40psi/ 2.8 BAR. Last week on the motorway I got the "Tyre Pressure low"...

Yes. Independent rear is only on 150 BHP+ SEATs. My FR is on 17" wheels. , I really like the ride as a good compromise between ride & handling. I've had much stiffer cars (S3, BMWs etc) which were irritatingly crashy. The FR does a good job imo.

If that was for me, then yes UV dye was added, along with the correct spec/quantity of oil and refridgerant top up.

That a/c service price is really high. Had mine done last Summer (4 year old car), cost £35. The system holds about 500 g of refridgerant, mine had 400 remaining, so 100g added, plus the lubricant and UV dye. Done in 20minutes. If you are in the Derby area give this chap a try Staykool AC. He...

Give it a sniff. Is it really smoke ie, oil being burnt, or coolant (smells a bit like stale coffee) or just condensation? Just because the engine is up to temp doesn't exclude the last option in this weather when driving around town.

Regarding the SOC display. If yours shows three dashes - - - it means that the function is not fitted/activated, not that you have zero charge.

To do it properly isn't really a DIY job. It needs a pressure bleeder and VCDS to activate the ABS system. Doing it the old school way will only get about half the existing fluid out of the system.

I am cynical too, but have used them in the past. The oil did come out of a 55 Gallon drum but was Castrol Edge and of the correct spec, the filter was a FRAM part so no problems there. So I did check and it was done correctly, whilst I waited & watched so they didn't have time to swap the...

Before spending on a Vacuum pump have a look at some of the local indy service places. National for example want £55 for an oil and filter change on a 2.0Leon diesel. There's a fiver off voucher on their website too, so at £50 it'll be cheaper than buying oil/filter/pump and doing it yourself...

I think that's all I've got, plus the ones in the linked thread. I'll have a dig around my pc...

Love the colour of mine, after the fact that its a 2 door the colour is the next thing people like about it. Practical: -Stays looking cleaner than most other colours, -really shows off the curves, -like all silver cars the contrast of the glass work, which looks almost black, stops it looking...

Those pressures are in the ball park. This thread shows a couple of Cupra Tyre pressure stickers to give you an idea. The thread says 18" but the stickers show 19s too. https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/seat-tyre-pressures-label-for-cupra-with-18-wheels.457189/#post-4928525 Might the...

This used to be covered in the manual. The recommendation is to to do several fairly hard decelerations from moderate speed to clean the disc. Obviously find a safe bit of road, straight, no traffic and not slippery then brake fairly hard, it doesn't have to be a full emergency stop. I've had...

A good point, I guess modern trickle chargers are SMPS? Mine is so old that it has a transformer and gives a pretty smooth output, so does work for battery swaps. As you point out a Computer saver is ideal to avoid any issues. (y)

Makes more sense! As a minimum I'd expect a battery to last 5 years, and I've had some go to 10 before starting to show reduced performance. Modern cars do seem to be harder on batteries, so hopefully the OP just needs a new battery. If doing the change yourself, I've used a trickle charger...