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Have you replaced both front wheel bearings. This platform is notorious for the sound appearing to come from one side when it's the other bearing that's on its way out. Ask me how I know! Have you checked whether any screws holding the arch liner have come out (on both sides)? With the same...

You're probably past this, but if you Google Torque Pro Wiki there's some info there. There's also an interesting thread here; http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=415791 It's for TDI's but gives a PID file and gives a flavour of creating custom PID's I've got a mk1 LCR and some of the...

Mr T - all good, no worries! itsmrjt - Fingers crossed for you. It's all a bit of a lottery as you had no doubt worked out for yourself. Low mileage may have had a life of short trips being rag'd straight from start up and lackadaisical servicing, but a low cost one may have all the goodies and...

Haha - you've edited 'modified' to 'un-modified'! Hmmm, I'd expect that anyone who's spent £000's on modding their car is going to really look after it. Warming up and cooling the turbo between any spirited driving, and resolving the tiniest issue to preserve the investment, and being rewarded...

I would order a new cap and shim from any VAG garage. They're only a few pounds and really easy to install - only a few drips of oil will come out if the car is fairly level. Opie oils on this forum may recommend a good gearbox oil which, although relatively expensive, will be a lot cheaper than...

I would add plugging in a VCDS or similar, and a trawl through the FAQ's for common issues. Mileage is usually a good starting point but you may get lucky. Mine has over 100k on it but my engine was totally forged / rebuilt less than 18k miles ago. Subsequently its had a hybrid turbo, uprated...

In terms of upgrades, adding handbrake assist springs is a good idea as without them the handbrake portion of the caliper appears to seize up sooner. If you're asking about bigger discs, different compound brake pads, etc. then I will risk dividing opinion here and say that in my view the front...

Note that Seat used different rear calipers across their range of mk1 models, so double check before buying new / refurb / refurb kit. Opinions differ regarding clamping the brake hose that needs to be disconnected from the caliper - I don't do it because I'm concerned it would weaken the hose...

Andrew - do you have any 'custom pids' for a 1.8t that you're happy to share please? For me there's a lot of parameters listed on screen that torque pro won't read e.g. exhaust gas temperature (and any others that might be useful). Thanks.

It was some time ago and, if I recall correctly, a shade over £100. I had thought that with the sensor in my hand I could simply buy another vag sensor with the same p/n but it transpired (to my cost) there are further p/n letters or numbers that aren't printed on the sensor label - the airbag...

It's on the front face of the cross-member under the front passenger seat. You'll need to remove the plastic trims at the front of the cill, rear of the cill / b-pillar, and the cill. There are one or two sneaky screws holding them on amongst many spring clips. You can then lift the carpet...

With your pedal being jammed I hope your mc push rod didn't bend, but regardless I'm glad it only took you an hour to fix it. It took me much longer! I'd advise anyone attempting this to spend several days beforehand practising limbo dancing, yoga, and suspending themselves upside down like a bat.

I'll second what AndyCupra has said - it does seem that it's not uncommon for the pedal to break which immediately breaks the plastic bearing for the master cylinder push rod end. I've also read that sometimes the breakage also bends the master cylinder push rod, so that may have jammed the...

This link might help https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_IV/61-BODY-Seats_Replacement/61-BODY-Seats_Replacement.htm Don't know if you have the same type of seats but, if not, try googling anything to do with seats for a mk4 golf, audi tt mk1, or skoda Octavia...

The alarm sounder is in the scuttle between the windscreen wiper motor and the ECU. You'll need to take the wiper arms off, remove the plastic scuttle cover, and then remove the wiper motor assembly to get the alarm in or out (disconnecting the wiper motor and the alarm electrical connectors to...

I've read that stainless scourers can be good at attracting moisture and tend to not form a bung like steel wool can. Regardless you wouldn't want any stray bits going back into the TIP so venting to atmosphere would be safest in that situation.

There's been a few suggestions on this thread but it's unclear whether you've had an opportunity to explore them further before trying to think of other issues that may be causing your boost symptoms. A Vagcom / VCDS scan should point you in the right direction (and is the best method of doing a...

N249 delete involves rerouting the plumbing (pipework) off of it but retaining the electrical connection (still plugged in). Post #9 of the link I gave earlier describes the symptoms of a failing N249, but if yours is not plumbed in then it can't influence boost (unless the pipework wasn't...

Dunno is the straight answer. Here's a link that explains how it should have been done together with forum responses discussing the merits of having / deleting the N249. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=349627