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Is it possible to check/adjust the led headlight range with VCDS? Mine seems to be set so low and the cutoff so severe, that I just can't se far enough ahead to go faster than 40 mph. I'm sure the dealer will be happy to charge me to tell me they are at factory settings.

To try to help here - In the UK, we only use two fuel grades. 95 RON & 99 RON. There is also a lower grade available 93 RON I think. It is this lower grade which is "standard" unleaded. We don't have this fuel, so our "base level" fuel is already "premium" when compared to the 93 RON stuff...

Sounds like the car isn't recognising the door being opened and so relocks automatically. I assume you are normally using the drivers door. does it do the same if you unlock it and then open one of the other doors? Used to be a door microswitch issue on mk 3 Ibiza

Found this: https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/service-oil-inspection-light-how-to-reset.457961/ Let us know.

By far the easiest way is to investigate which light isn't working & fix that! That's what the warning light is for. However, if you have replaced some of your standard bulbs with LED versions, there are various fixes. Essentially the warning is triggered when the car senses that a light...

As a first step, open the boot, set the latch to locked, then lower the boot to rest nearly closed and test. If the remote unlock works with the boot all the way open but not with it in the closed position I would be expecting a wiring problem in the loom that runs from the body to the boot...

Is your ABS pump dead or is it the fuse? The fuse here is a strap fuse on top of the battery. It may look intact at first glance. Use a mulimeter & look very closely you may see a hairline fracture. These fuses do seem to "age harden" and then crack - not melt as you'd expect of a fuse...

Be careful what you are doing! The headlights are look to be physically different shapes, so that means anything that goes around them is as well. So, bonnet, wings? as well as the actual front bumper. If you are going for the full kit as in your link - your car is a 3-door against the...

I don't think it is do-able. Firstly, although I think the headlamp shells are the same shape and will physically fit, I believe the wiring connectors are different. I did investigate this, hoping the wiring to the lamp unit was identical and the diffrerneces to run the seperate bulbs was all...

@RUM4MO what you say is entirely likely - I was basing my comment on "traditional" or historic interior heating controls. I still think it will be engine temp related rather than AC operation, but still need more from the OP.

Hi there, more info is needed. Has there been any work done on the car which may have opened the cooling system? Does the level come back up if AC is off? Could it be that the heater matrix is leaking & you only notice the level going down as you've turned the temperature up as AC on is too...

Not 100% certain, mine are electric - just unplug :) Seriously, from changing my son's broken mirror, it is done from behind the trim. The knob is attached with a split claw type fitting- designed to go together and not come apart! I had the luxury of the replacement mirror with entire cable...

Just done this myself. there is a thread on this forum showing exactly how (with pictures) to remove the interior of a mk5 SC. you'll need to search for it. As to cables for rear speakers - nope, none pre-installed, you will need to run your own. It is possible to connect directly into the...

How about this? Does opening your door turn the interior courtesy light on? Most of the time the interior light is turned on by software when you turn off ignition & remove key or when you ulock the car by remote, so you don't notice that actually opening the door no longer turns the light on...

Ooops, Just realised I was talking about the fuse links in a Mk4, sorry. Just recently gone from mk4 to mk5, not had a need to look that close at my mk5 yet.

Out of interest, how do you know the strip fuses are OK? when my ABS failed, I could not see the break, but DVM proved open circuit. When I replaced the link, it was indeed in two pieces, looks more like a stress fracture than electrical overload/melt.

It's your heating recirculation valve. it sounds as if the motor has stripped some teeth and can't get the flap to hit a limit stop properly. Engaging reverse automatically sets the heating system to recirculation to avoid the car sucking it's own exhaust fumes into the cabin as it reverses...

Just checked yesterday. Onlt the 4 connetions for the front speakers are populated in the quadlock. The speaker (brown) plug can be removed and the blue locking bar pushed out so I can wire my new rear speaker cables in directly as per factory. Wonder if just introducing the connected load...

Snap! So do I. I'm in the middle of doing this. there aer no spaeaker cables or mounts, just 4 x holes where the OEM mount would be. I have changed the head unit already but can't remember if there are cables for the rear speakers present at the quadlock connector. I hope not as that is...

I resolved my window auto close problem by fitting a new bolt in the bottom of the front regulator which had been removed (presumably) by the same idiot that fitted aftermarket speakers with 1 screw in mine! Did require door card off and glass clamp adjustments to get it just right. Window now...