Yes, even when I removed the panel immediately in front of it there was still another metal panel that fouled the motor. I found it easiest to put the motor and linkage in separately (I had to remove the motor to change the linkage anyway) and then bolt them back together and reset the linkage...
Hi, one of my wiper spindles seized and I borked it in the process of trying to get it apart to relube it. I now have a used unit to fit (with nicely greased spindles). I had to remove the motor from the mechanism to get the bloody thing out. Is there some clever way to get it in (and out)...
Did this adapter already have an earth on one of the pins on the connector? I think the one I bought did not and I had the same problem until I made one myself with a short piece of wire. There are instructions on an older thread on the forum but unfortunately none on the pictures are working. I...
I claimed using small claims court saying that it should be covered under the anti perforation warranty and especially on the basis that it is the result of a known design fault that has affected a number of cars across the VAG range. I think the second argument is much stronger. SEAT denied...
I'd guess the creaks come where metal is moving against metal, so where the springs connect to the frame or to the mesh. You might be able to see some wear at some of those points. Maybe a very small dab of grease at those points would help.
Good luck with it.
You could put some oil on the bolt threads and leave it to soak in while you're waiting for the part to arrive. That should to help you get them out more easily. Also running the engine to heat the block and exhaust can help with removal too, as long as you don't then burn...
I think problems with the microswitches or die failed solder joints in the door module, normally driver's door, is one possible cause. I've been living with the same problem for about nine months. Haven't yet had time to get stuck into tracking down the problem.
Although some of it is obscured it looks to me that it's a lot like the ...E support, which happens to be the one listed for your buk engine in the parts. reference. One side of the U-shape bolts to the block, the base extends outwards and then the other side of the U is the bub we can see in...
If you have the skills, equipment, inclination and free time to do it then maybe it would be worth considering.
If you have to pay for someone else to do it then you would take a long time to recoup the money you'd save on fuel.
In general it is always cheaper to buy the car with the engine...
I just searched for TDI turbo support bracket and found the part being discussed on a VW forum. Then as RUM4MO says, double check it's correct for your car.
Just agree not to return it if you're sure. Then they'll either send it or they won't. I often find the part number I want is available more cheaply for other VAG cars, or then cheaper still by searching on the manufacturer part code once I've got it from the VAG number. So vag radiator fan, 6q0...
I've lost count of the number of times I've taken that approach and regretted it, often damaging things in the process, then ended up taking everything apart again anyway in the end.
I'm fitting my first helicoil this weekend to replace a stripped thread for a similar reason, though in my case...
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