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Afternoon all, I've had the dreaded problem with a door starting to fail to unlock using the fob for the last couple of days, opens fine from the inside and then outside when unlocked until locked again. Front passenger side. I was resigned to having to do the WD40 fix when I saw one person...

Could this be some sort of tank venting problem? Next time it does it try just removing and replacing the fuel cap, see if that makes a difference.

To rule out washer fluid you can use some of the strongly scented stuff (eg Halfords purple). Can make it more obviously. Other thing it could be is a dislodged floor rubber, some cars have blanking grommets installed in the floor. Not sure where or if the 1P has any...

Agreed thermostat and yes it's a git of a thing to change. Don't trust the cluster gauge either, it can be inaccurate - mine used to say it was at 90 but VCDS and 3rd party gauge showed it fluctuating between 70-85 when up to temp. New 'stat fixed it and it's now always 87-90 when hot.

Also and just in case you're not familiar with it, just turning it on with the stalk top lever only arms it, you then need to hold speed up or down switch end of stalk briefly for it to activate.

https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/interior-lights-not-working-2008-leon.338767/

Assuming 02m code box, approx 2.3L. I'm sure you're aware the proper way to obtain correct level is to fill until it comes out the filler plug with the car level, not refill by volume.... Supposed to be lifetime, change every 50k to keep it nice in my book. Some do it around 100k. You might...

What you need is a kit that is Canbus compatible which will stop you getting the flickering and bulb out warning, and avoid the need to plumb in any other separate parts. You also need to ensure you get H7R HID bulbs, not H7. The former have some of the bulb painted to stop weird light output...

Not on track it isn't. Thankfully most scrutineers won't let high horses out on circuit.

A white car needs black wheels in my mind. I've had a set of those Cades wheels, they're nice but the OZ ST GT are a better wheel if budget allows. I'd be buying a set of those in black if it were me. I'd only buy the cheaper wheel if I needed tyres too and buying the OZs meant crap tyres due to...

Especially is silly people try to use a non-sprung friction plate designed for DMFs with a solid flywheel. It's been known to happen!

Probably a faulty clutch master or slave cylinder. My guess would be the slave is on the way out. This is assuming a thorough check for leaks has or will be done prior to looking at that.

These replace the standard turbo inlet part which is supposedly a flow restriction due to the noise restricting design. I've seen plenty of vid reviews where people notice little to some noise increase, no-one really commits to saying it makes any difference to performance. Seems similar to the...

Yep it's a sensor for the aircon system, spotted it on mine when I had the vent pod out. You can see it in post #238 in this thread: https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/leon-cupra-k1-rtech2-382bhp-408lbft-fully-forged-build.400603/page-12

Oh yeah you did say. Next I'd be plugging it into VCDS and seeing what's throwing up errors.

Ah sounds like just a build up of condensation-related gunk and it's cleared itself out. Personally wouldn't bother doing a PCV delete as to do it properly with a decent oil separator is a lot of money. I chose to replace the PCV parts with the latest revision and get an intake clean every 30k.

You sure it's white? Grey can be oil too, the fact it's smells oily and slowly dropping oil level and not coolant suggests it's burning oil not water. Based on information provided I'd suspect the PCV system to be at fault.

Looking at the part numbers for Sach aftermarket upgrades the Cupra and the FR use the same clutch, which bodes well for those of us running lower torque\power on the K03 with standard clutches: https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/reinforced-clutch/seat-leon-1p/2-0-tfsi-147kw...

Sounds like at least one fuse has popped - check them.

Entirely depends on age\condition of the clutch, engine\state of tune and driving style. Some say anything past stage one will kill it, others have used OEM with stage 2+ for a time with no probs. It's impossible to say it'll die after X number of miles or Y power\torque figures. From what I've...