Yeah thats the same part.
i found a used one for sale but its from an Audi A6 with a 2.0 CNH engine. Part no. is the same but is there any way of knowing if the cams are different? Like cam profiles, timing etc?
So just to update.
Got the car in a garage to get it sorted. It would appear that the tensioner has seized. Causing the belt heat up as its been driven around it. The belt has shredded and ultimately failed.
The big problem now is that the camshaft housing is damaged.
anyone know of anywhere...
Not been changed. It’s only covered 41k miles. Guy I spoke to at Indy garage said its most likely something else that has failed. Tensioner or water pump. As the belt should be ok at that mileage.
Funny you say that. The dealer tech initially reported the computer fault which was taking him down a totally different path. I had to explain again about what happened and request they look at the belt.
Bring back the good old mechanic who could diagnose by checking in the engine bay rather...
Cheers for confirming the dreaded thought - that valves will have met the pistons 🫣
Was sat around 2000rpm when there was a dip in power and the glow plug light started flashing. There was no obvious bang/judder or any other obvious indication of damage. Just felt similar to taking foot off...
Hi folks, does anyone have knowledge or experience of a 2016 2.0 diesel FR184 snapping the timing belt?
Ours went and Seat dealership are saying their only option for repair is a new engine at circa £10k.
Does anyone know if these engines are safe? i.e. do the valves operate above the stroke...
Sounds very much like a gasket or cylinder issue.
get the coolant system pressure tested. Keep an eye on the coolant see if it’s dropping.
Another thing you can do is take the spark plugs out to see if any of them look like they are being fouled from the water getting into the cylinder...
Have you considered a JB1 or JB4 from Burger Tuning?
Piggy back similar to the DTUK and ABT.
https://burgertuning.com/collections/jb4/products/jb1-jb4-group-1-vag-tuner
Some pretty decent results from VAG cars running these.
When you get the clutch off check the amount of play in the flywheel. They are dual mass flywheels and over time the springs start to wear. There is a tolerance that is allowed between the 2 plates which is measured by turning the front plate (one that contacts the clutch friction plate) from...
The Conti is a premium tyre and decent. If any difference it will be marginal and only on the limit. How often will you be throwing it about on the limit?
What mileage is your lease over? Potentially low enough to never need to change them. £400 you could put elsewhere.
Just saying. The...
You might get away with screwing in a spacer to the lambda sensor. Some are better than others.
What stage 1 software are you running?
Would be worth at least a dyno run or best some datalogging on the road once you do the decat to make sure its not pulling ignition and still optimised with...
The decat makes no difference the the inlet temps.
You’ll need a better i/c if the boost you are or plan to run gets too high and the intake temps go up.
Changing the downpipe to remove just lets the engine breathe easier and the turbo spool a bit quicker due to the reduced back pressure.
I’ve thought about it. Might get some vinyl and give it a bash. Although looks like it might be better to knock the mesh out first so the wrap goes behind it rather than cutting it at the front.
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