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yes, everything else works as normal, all you're doing is taking a signal from speaker wiring.

if anybody is worried aberyout loosing settings when removing battery you can always connect up a 12v supply to the negative post on firewall and directly to one of the M6 positive posts in the fusebox, using something like a Ctek trickle charger with 7amp power supply is enough to keep the car...

there is a grommet in the firewall already large enough to take 1/0G cable, that's what I fitted.. you need to remove glovebox and pull carpet up a but to reveal it, maybe remove sill/kick cover too (would need to do that anyway to route cable through. in the engine bay you can just reach the...

Just to note, 3db is "twice as loud" from an acoustic point of view, going from 90 to 87db is a worthwhile, I have heavily deadened my car but it's still very noisy from the rear arches so at some point I'm going to pull the liners out and put some appropriate product on them, doesn't help...

it's doable and the seats are easy enough to take out but didn't fancy the risk of scratching the sills and threshold plates..

just remove door sill trim covers and you can pull the carpet up to get areas, it's a bit of a squeeze unless you remove the front seats altogether but I didn't when I did mine...

be careful whom you let work on your car if they don't even know how to use a dipstick...........

I don't have any rattles with mine but very disappointed in paint quality, it marks so easily even using microfibre cloths and despite heavily sound proofing the car there is still a higher than average level of road noise from the rear.. apart from that the quality of everything else seems very...

make it worse by getting a similar result to what has happened so far.. how big is the area? a profesional may be able to do a local repair but bonnets are the worst panel to repair as everything shows up..

well you could add more clear but I fear it could be made worse.. it's an art to do chips properly especially metallic finishes.

yes gone through clear coat, the repair section is still proud too but looks like it could take a drop of clear in the middle too. did you use primer by any chance as I wouldn't have bothered as what happens is as you sanding/polishing you end up seeing a coastline of primer as it doesn't fully...

well it actually says it in this thread and at least 2 other threads on the 1st page...

yeah, the search button...

just a thought but why bother upgrading the rears? they should be turned down anyway or even off, mine aren't even connected anymore as a front stage is all that's needed.. that way you could spend the money saved on better/more equipment? just a thought...

"should" be OK but without actually trying them I wouldn't say yes! yes, 2way front and rear is stock.

depth will also be limited by the width of the magnet as there is a bracket with bolt holding the bottom of the window channel to it, I made a spacer of approx 36mm so the speaker almost fits flush with door card.

ST "R" which has a different floor pan to 5dr

JL Audio are another recommended speaker brand..

K2's are a very decent capable set of speakers :)

yeah just a bit! I currently only have the Focal mids and tweeters and use a different 8" for the doors, a pair of 8" Utopia woofers are £1300!!