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Its just creations motorsport and their crappy products, mine fouls the cables too.

hey buddy, no problem and im glad it worked. It took me a year during the pandemic to figure it out myself so i tell literally anyone whos changed their pump and has this issue. The other pipe is just a fuel return line i believe so that doesnt matter, plus as you say its been heat shrinked to...

how did you get on?

Hey Yep its the flexihose that you need to worry about. just replace the clamps on it with oetiker clamps good and tight. If it worked then you'll hopefully improve your cold start issue. let us know

Pressure gauge and some fuel hose, plumb it in before the fuel rail. Pressure should hold after priming the fuel rail. i was also able to visually inspect the fuel pump by lifting it out far enough to see the fittings, and getting a mate to prime the pump. Fuel sprayed out the fittings. I...

this pump lasted me less than a year, rebranded china garbage

Check your fuel pressure when you prime the pump. If your new fuel pump came with anything other than those "ear" clamps they dont seal well enough to hold fuel pressure. I went through this for a year before finding out what the issue was, checked fuel pressure and after priming the fuel...

good to see this beast is still around

I had this leak in the same spot, figured it was the pump but traced it up to the forked coolant elbow next the timing cover/engine mount. Mine had a hairline split that i couldnt even see when it was in my hand. Bought one of those cheap chinese alloy coolant sets for 15 quid.

the rear light cluster? i havnt, i will spray some water over it and what happens. cheers mate

I have to annually soak up a nice puddle of water behind the foam trim by the rear passenger side light. I cant tell if it comes through the vent or from the boot lid. Anyone get this one?

happens to mine all the time as my seals are flattened (by me) they bolt on at the back but clip on at the front kind of have to push them on and downwards. I usually just give em a clout if theyre hanging off 😂

check your high and low speed fans are working, it could be a few things. (rad temp sensor, fan module etc). theres tons of info on this one out there.

agreed with matty, if its working, keep it hooked up. I relocated mine to somewhere nicer. CAr felt much better with than without.

the FPR needs its own vacuum source from the manifold. Dont T into it. 1 line DV > Manifold 1 line FPR > manifold

the remainder of the drip tray is indeed on the cover part you've removed. but looks like you've found your leak source if the pollen filter is wet. i had the same, the left hand part of mine had fell down and was routing the water directly into the filter.

hmm so its not in limp mode then. apparently resistors dont work from what ive read over the years of old forums, i kept my n249 but my SAI is unplugged and i dont get codes. n112 i believe id still plugged in also. soz i canny help ya

holy **** that rear end is jacked up!

forgot to say, if its the lock then its a little metal rod that just needs a generous amount of grease to stop the rattle. 👍

why is it giving you codes for n112 and n249 if theyre mapped out? before mine were mapped out any code relating to them two would put the car in limp mode. whats your boost gauge reading?