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Did you replace the whole mechanism, or just the motor itself ? My previous reply was probably a little misleading, the mechanism determines whether they stop or not - the relay neither knows nor cares how long they take to do a sweep; it leaves the power on (so they go again straight away when...

5 ohm Like this

Hi Jay, looks like you've explored a few options, so looking to piggy-back on the info you've sourced already... Have you tried using a quad lock connector Aux in cable? Seen mention of an Aux in tick box that needs activating with VAGCom ...presume this is on the same screen as the CD option...

Why ? If anything, if you take a thump that deforms the suspension turret, you want the strutbrace to fail before it writes-off you're other suspension turret too :confused:

Says it will ...and looks to mount clear of the bonnet strut

I disagree. Long standing history (~2010) of selling similar items with excellent feedback. PayPal and eBay money-back guarantee £280 is a significant hike (and also won't have any warranty, since they're a third-party seller)

How top end ? Link ? If they're verified PayPal users, you should be covered ....wouldn't even entertain WesternUnion or any of the other scam payment methods. Even if it's legit, it's a lot of money for something with no warranty :think:

If you don't get stopped when it's dark, you don't need them. We didn't bother for a massive euro road-trip cos according to the schedule we were s'posed to be in the pub by the time it was getting dark ...there weren't many people in the mountains at that time of night anyway :rolleyes:

^ Not sure where I'd got this from. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-identity-check/taking-your-car-for-a-vic-test Get it booked in. If it's only superficial damage (remember, like the MOT, they can't remove any panels to check, so as long as any sharp edges have tape over it'll pass) you can...

They're having a giraffe - you could make £200 in the parts you could remove in an afternoon For £40 I'd chuck it in for a VIC check and carry on using it tbh

I disagree - a plug connected up with the wires joined is obvious. An empty plug will get full of crap, so you still need to plug a sensor into it anyway, and in the future a garage could waste hours 'fault finding' as to why the light never came on when the pads started scoring into the discs.

Where did you learn to drive ? You can't idle in gear. Either choose a lower gear, or put the clutch in.

Is the red light and beeping to tell you the coolant level in the expansion tank is low (or the sensor's unplugged/faulty) like on the Leons ?

Does your rear panel in the boot (the one that covers the lock latch) have a little ledge in the middle about halfway up ? I imagine they all do, to save cost, but without it your false floor won't be supported at the opening.

It does sound like the cam on the motor ....dunno if you can buy parts separately (it's probably easier to just replace the lot tbh) Pop the covers off the top of the wiper arms and undo the bolts holding them down - you might need to wiggle the first part of the arm up and down a bit to free...

Not easy at all ...it's not a bulb for a start If it doesn't illuminate with the key in the first position (assuming they notice) it'll fail anyway.

Well after unplugging the door lock again I managed to get the light off, so the central locking was working again and I was just able to use the key to lock the driver's door. Spent a couple of hours yesterday stripping the door to fit a new, improved 2011 Altea door lock - DO NOT DO THIS...

No.

May also (more than likely) be encapsulated in resin, so if this is black in your key it's the black glue you need to dig out *very carefully* to remove the transponder - it's glass btw, so be careful

Good news ! (kinda) Reconnected the lock and battery - in that order - this morning and the door-open light has come on on the dash and the remote central locking doesn't work anymore. Think it's the soldered joints. Parking up and having to disconnect the battery before taking the key out...