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thanks for all the advice on this guys, i had one last attempt to reset the handbrake before the mot, it seems i hadnt quite got the pistons would back all the way before, it became stiff so i assumed it was fully back but apparently not. i went through the reset procedure as described and it...

agreed, either ive done something wrong or they are just seized up with the rust. will let the garage take a look, not done anything different to the last time and all worked fine. slightly disappointed that i couldnt manage to get it sorted myself, i guess the only way to learn is by having...

Thanks for the replys. Yeah both pistons wound in ok. The old pads were like new so they dodnt have to go back far to get tge caliper back over. I did pump the beakw and pull the handbrake 10 - 20 after putting it all back. Had a thought I may of pulled tge handbrake on once before i lowered the...

Ive only been up and down the road so maybe its not had chance to clear it yet. Its mot is due at the weekend hence trying to adjust the handbrake. Might have to bite the bullet and let the test place adjust it as i dont fancy trying to take it all apart again in he dark to rewind the pistons...

Thanks for the help guys managedbto get the pads on andit all back together, however the handbrake isnt working. Ive adjusted it on the 10mm nut under the cup holder, that has it tight on 3 clicks but its not holding the car. It looks like that ns lever is sticking but i figure something more...

Yeah the silver anti rattle things. I tapped one pad in with a hammer but only gently hopefully it will be ok. Will have to get a wire brush and have another go. Ill get genuine ones next time to save on the hassle

Im winding back the piston with the rewind tool. Id not taken off the brake fluid cap so i think thats solved that bit. The pads are from brakes international cant remember the brand it had on the box. Near sure i didnt have this issues with the bosch ones i had last time, but the car is 9 years...

Thanks no they are not genuine ones. Ill give it a go i recall having to tap one back in the a hammer and block of wood the last time. Will give it another go. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Matt

Hi all im in the middle of replacing my rear discs and pads as the discs are badly corroded. Ive done it once before without problems following the guide on here. This time however the new pad wont fit into the shim tge one on the rear face fits fine is it a case of sanding some of the paint on...

Had the orange oil light come on , think orange is low level and red is low pressure?. Having been on the motorway with no where safe to pull over , other than stopping and awaiting recovery i did maybe 50 miles with it on unfortunatley, after turning the car on in the morning the light was off...

yeah! wouldn't have said no to the Ferrari 599 GTO or the Aston DB9 in racing trim and livery! though a more realistic level those radicals look ace as a pure track day toy

Cheers for the tips guys, it went fine really enjoyed the day , got overtaken by everything haha but still good fun. Also the hard braking at Snetterton seems to have solved my brake juddering , i guess it got rid of the pad residue that was built up on the font discs. Also seems to have bedded...

im not sure that the tdis with variable vane turbos have a "turbo lag" phase mine at least makes full boost on the guage from pretty much idle :confused:

Hi all , i have booked my self and my pd 130 onto a track day at snetterton on the 27th. any tips on driving style/general tips etc , obviously the tdi wont have great legs on the straights only running 175bhp but should be able to get a good get away through the corner exits with all the...

well the handbrake holds the car on a hill so it must be doing something , before it used to slide but the rear discs beforehand were properly chewed up with rust. might take it along to an mot station and ask them to check what efficiency the rear brakes are at. :banned:

The discs are new aswell , so there is no surface rust on them as of yet, it seems its both sides that are doing it so the chances of me cross threading the caliper bolts on both sides seems a little bit high ,i did read somewhere some pads do this for a while then become flush? much like...

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I changed both my rear discs and pads about a month ago , ive put around 500 miles on them since the change bedded them in carefully for the first 150-300 miles, however after a quick look at them they appear to be angles e.g the front edge of the pad closest to the hub looks to be in contact...

Would you all use a shop that catered just for TDis or are you happy to piece your parts from the various sources avaliable?

haha my bad was reading about different gases typed the wrong one :doh: