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I got to 238,000 miles on my Mk1 150 FR when the water pump chucked out all of the coolant. Sold it to breakers as it wasn't worth the cost of fixing.

Had the same thing on my diesel, I was convinced it was head gasket as I got oil in the water, everything pointed to the head gasket, but it was the water pump and the head gasket was fine. It took months for the water pump to go completely, it would work fine for days and sometimes weeks with...

Brake light bulb is most likely blown

I used millers and diesel rhino, then I started using Archoil. I also tried shell Vpower for 6 month's and consistently averaged 50 miles per tank LESS than when I used the cheap sainsburys diesel. I don't know if the additives really help or not and there doesn't seem to be enough independant...

Probably dislodged turbo hose, they can blow out slightly so there is a slight pressure leak.

I tried cable ties and that failed within days, so I drilled mine and put self taping screws either side of the hose, weirdly my pancake pipe was the last pipe to blow off. If you do drill make sure you clear any metal fillings/residue out of the pipes.

Do you have an after market head unit? If so you need a booster for the aerial as the standard Aura head unit has an in built aerial booster and after market units don't. When I first wired the booster into the switched live it didn't do anything. I put it on a permanent live feed instead and...

Are you on the original starter motor? If cleaning the connections doesn't sort it then it might be on it's way out.

I did my diesel and they only sold the cam cover and gasket together at about £150 at the time, I ended up getting the gasket from ECP or GSF for around £11 and gasket seal for £7. I went all the way round on mine with a small line of sealer and it still doesn't leak after 5 years. I didn't have...

There is loads of info on here about what you need to do, but from memory you need to do something with the live and switched live (I think they are reversed on the ISO), put an aerial booster on and fit a fascia adaptor as the stereo that comes with the car is over sized.

Like I said they are talking about something completely different. Look up Product Code: 136440160 on ECP and thats the clutch slave cylinder and it even has the explanation at the bottom.

The slave cylinder definitely doesn't come with a clutch kit, they are talking about something else entirely as the clutch slave cylinder is part of the master cylinder/ brake clutch fluid circuit.

My money was on the slave cylinder (still is), did they definitely change it as it's a four hour job as the gearbox has to come off to get to it, so it's the sort of thing they would say they have done and haven't. I had exactly the same symptoms and it was the slave cylinder, no loss of fluid...

There is a great guide on here and it is fairly straight forward, I would recommend some of that blue thread glue for the screws behind the steering wheel as one of mine came a bit loose.

Mine was already enabled in the ecu (55 plate PD 150 FR) when I put my CC in, but didn't initially work as the clutch switch wasn't working. The clutch switch didn't throw up any errors in VCDS and I couldn't find a way to test it. There isn't any light to say CC is active.

I never did an EGR delete with mine, but I believe it throw an EML unless you get it mapped out of the ECU. I did do the EGR adaption with VCDS which effectively does the same thing. All my turbo pipes have screws where they connect as they all blew off one by one through age and deterioration...

I didn't need any special tools, I think it was a few phillips head screws and then the plate and pump lifted out. I think I lifted the pump just enough to get the pella tube past it and extracted all the fuel. There is probably a video on youtube somewhere. I highly recommend the Pella pump or...

Another way is if you get hold of a pella pump, you can lift the back seat and remove the cover to the diesel pump and suck the lot out from there.

I got mine from ebay, it was so long ago I can't find the details. I think there is a flip key guide on here that give the correct frequency, I think it's 433 or 434 from memory.

Here is the how to: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1015107 I got the cables/clips and butyl from ebay. Putting the cables on isn't that easy as there isn't enough slack to get them over the guides. Easier option may be to buy the whole panel off ebay with the cables already...