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It also helps to re bend the spring contacts in the switch that slide along the pcb carbon tracks to ensure good contact.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321640364563?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Fitted it today. Quality ok - the caliper is actually a very simple bit of engineering, so even if it is a chinese knock off, there shouldn't be a problem.

At the moment I'm having trouble identifying which caliper it is as there seem to be at least 4 different types!

Try this thread :) I have a sticky rear caliper too - another poor vag design...... £50 for new one or £25 for repair kit - duh no brainer choice there then. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=401820&highlight=cam+timing

But if the stud isn't a problem, why do they supply a new one? ;)

I'm due my second cambelt change in next 10k miles or so. I have been reading from several sources an issue with the tensioner stud only being man enough for one change and it tends to fail shortly after belt change due to another poor VAG design - ie specification/desing of stud is...

Mine is on, all the time. 2005. Newer smartphones use and suck ALOT of juice from charger, you need an in car charger rated at least 1A or more. Get GSAM app and you will see that your phone drains at 400-800 mA even at idle! If you want your phone to charge quickly, switch it to airplane mode...

diesel filters always come at very black. And I change mine every other 10k service. Remember the fuel goes round the circuit repeatedly as the low pressure pump will supply far more than is ever needed unless you are on full load and 4k+ rpm

Mine never used to do this but started when I did the camshaft timing tweak. I can only think that because mine was running rich, the on/off effect of the engine was less pronounced? I only notice it at lower speeds on downhill.

isnt the manifold position completely different on the 1.9 engine?

Most proper tests have shown that a "performance" air filter fairs no better than a new stock one, especially on a forced induction engine. Stock paper ones are so cheap, I change mine at every other oil service.

I don't think so :(

Maybe your motorised flap vavle is defective and sticking shut? These fail early on on a regular basis but usually stick in the open position. If fuel is leaking have they done a pressure test? If its getting into your oil, your oil level will rise rapidly (and smell of diesel and ruin your...

Typical dumbass dealers. Call seat customer service. They were very helpful. Just say you have a G201 fault in your ABS and the dealer not being helpful/ignorant. Or go to another dealer.....

Hmm, more likely it was the freewheel clutch - £35 off ebay or any motor factors.......

Just upgrade to 345mm mate. You won't need grooves/drilled or "special" pads, they just won't fade or wear. probably alot cheaper too if you can get a set on fleabay. I did mine 5 years ago and still on the original pads, only half worn.

DIY. Piece of P**s. 2 hours tops.

Alternator pulley - it has a freewheel clutch on that squeels, then seizes up eventually (or quite quickly). Get it changed quick or it could sttip your altenrator belt and /or alternator and possible damage cam belt assembly if it lets rip. You need a special tool to undo. Available off ebay...

Get it remapped :), then you will be impressed. General rumour/consensus has it that 140 PD is actually rated higher in reality, or certainly makes the best use of those 140 gee gees. My remap showed 145 at flywheel before remap, 185 ish afterwards. The DSG will out class any Joe average...

Not sure if FR has better brakes too? Although upgrade of 345s from VR32 is very easy. Interior is probably very much the same. Go for a DSG, effortless driving. Make sure its been oil changed if more than 40k though.