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If it does turn out to be the harness you can replace it or get it replaced mate. Try this thread for some more peeps with your kinda problem. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=236305

Could be an issue with your wiring harness if the fault is recurring, unless the plugs were replaced with the wrong ones.

Sounds like a glow plug fault, maybe the one in cylinder 4 could do with replacing. Be very careful with the threads if exchanging the plug yourself. A stripped thread is very very expensive!

Ditto... Car will be fine to drive, you might just want to check the codes now again to make sure it is what you think it is. Mine was also mapped out by Jabba.

Keep the Leon and invest in the extras, beautiful car and capable of putting a stupid smile on your face with money spent in the right areas. Dont get rid!!

I think i average around 47mpg over a distance like that, i only get over 50 on a long long run and thats being careful.

Don't forget about your tyres, if they're down a bit with the temperature dropping that won't be helping either..

A custom kit is the way i'd like to go. I'm fed up with neoprene wedged all over the place to stop vibrations and rubbing. May as well take the wet suit out of the cupboard and stick it in the engine bay!

I dont know what the final cost of mine is as its still in the garage, i know the head was sent away to get helicoiled, skimmed etc. I dont think there is a cheap way of doing it unless you get lucky with an 'easy-out'.

Its a complete bugger isn't it! One of the cheapest parts to replace suddenly becomes a very expensive one! Seems to happen to quite a few folk.

Thats right mate, if you want them to light up that is :) i think i jumped off the dimmed power supply at the adjacent switches.

I'd just give them a buzz mate, can't remeber how much but doubt it would be much.

When you had the new EGR put in, did the mechanic mention anything odd about the gasket on the exhaust inlet pipe? Think some put a thin metal plate here with a small hole in it. This reduces the amount of exhaust gas allowed through but if the hole is too small i think the eml comes on...

Suppose thats ok if you check your codes regularly, i'd be frettin that the light was on for a real problem that i was ignoring.

Lots and lots of bed time reading on here if you search for EGR but in short: 1) To stop exhaust gas fumes mixing with oil from your crank case breather and blocking up your EGR in the manner you describe above. 2) If the valve was stuck open your engine would lack air at high revs and feel...

If the EGR vac line is blocked, (and the valve is closed), then it wont effect how the car drives, just means you suck in extra fresh air at idle and low revs instead of using some exhaust gas. I'd say leave it blocked and map out the EML but as you've bought a new one i guess you want it working :)

Might be worth checking the vac line that goes to your EGR, maybe the previous owner put a little grub screw up there to prevent the valve from opening..

As with Oldman I've found a lack of air due to a clogged up egr and inlet manifold causes mine to smoke quite a bit. Its fine with the turbo running, but before spool up the restriction causes inefficient burning and smoke. The egr is now blanked and next month I'll be getting the manifold...

Fuses went in the switched live feed from the rack under the dash up to the switches mate, although i stress i am no electrician. You could plumb it all in backwards, just make sure you give yourself enough wire to see what you're doing at the switch end, but not so much you cant push it all...

And they are keeping me comfy still ;) I made up the loom in the end and installed LH drive switches as Phillc said. I think these seats are the reason i dont get back pain anymore. Incidentally i installed inline fuses instead of routing through the fuse box. One regret..........Not buying a...