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You can set the fog lights as DRLs but dimmed to 40% so not to look very bright and aggressive. I think this is the Scandinavian mode in the VAG COM. If you set it properly you can have the lights at auto and they work fine. In daylight conditions the fog lights work as DRLs with the main lights...

Upgrade the engine mounts and add the WALK I had the same feeling when my car got tuned! Too much torque for front end to handle plus the feeling that the enginge was shooting forward and the rest of the chassis was following.

There you go... :)

If you have the original armrest there is a coin tray inside it which is actually covering the pair of cup-holders underneath. I am talking about this one http://seatepac.gedas.co.uk/productdetail.aspx?p_no=1P1061000A

My thoughts as well.

That's good then, I believe you gonna see the figures you want. Have in mind that Cupra doesn't give you the correct feeling (when it is stock) relative to its power. I guess it feels fast at 300 bhp but not as fast as in 360-390 bhp. When I had my Cupra stock, my friend's GTI was stage 1 back...

Evsi I don't know the condition of your car but if it doesn't convince you, you must check your car first and then blame the remap. It's commonly easier to blame the remap (most dodgy mechanics do) than check the car. I would say you should follow few rules to keep your car running as expected...

That's why you need to stick with a certain dyno, keep a log and use the same correction factors/variables. It's not perfect but at least you get more consistent results.

Yes my car and my friend's car were dyno'ed stock and then modifications started.

I can speak for Revo since my car and all of my friends' cars have Revo. With Revo for example you can be sure - I haven't seen a single Cupra with just stage 1 remap not doing 300-305 bhp. Given your car hasn't any mechanical problems you will get what you're promised. Going with a company...

Have a look at my Cupra (for a real life example) with black matte bonnet and roof to help you decide.

I shouldn't worry, I have a Milltek on my Cupra with stage2+ for almost 2 years and the exhaust is rock solid. Same for all the Milltek exhausts friends' cars have. This is the norm. I don't say that it never happens for an exhaust to get blown but this applies to all things.

To be honest I've been making these shields for more than a year to friends and for my car and never had such problems like those you mention. Even painted ones never had problems. I've had this shield on my car for over a year and nothing happened. Evoms' shield is 2mm aluminum

I sent you a PM

I make my own handmade heat-shields (a slightly modified version of Evoms' heat-shield) out of 2mm thick aluminum. Some like them plain aluminum and others black painted with heat resistant spray. The paint is purely cosmetic and serves no other purpose than to please the eye. If you like I can...

Definitely go for the HPFP, better gains and better "investment" performance wise. If you want a swift car without spending a lot of cash and do not want to get too involved, just get the remap and that's it. Just service your car and enjoy it. Later on you can upgrade the downpipe.

Actually it is not an optimistic dyno, most cars dyno-ed there are giving pretty accurate readings - again and again. This specific car is the pride of local Revo dealer - it is really good. If we were going to dyno cars just to see nice numbers I wouldn't dyno my car at all. I have a friend...

My friend's Golf GTI MK5 (K03 turbo) with Revo stage2+, milltek 70mm (tbe), Evoms v-flow intake and APR hpfp made 322bhp on MAHA dyno (DIN correction). There you go...

Please do that would be great! On the other hand, personally, I know that I have a cheap/normal car compared to those supercars. I believe there is no comparison - as dazjb69 said.

What issue are you referring to? The banjo bolt? I am not 100% sure I believe the banjo bolt was in pre 2007 cars or maybe pre 2006.