Hi all,
If the Cupra radio keeps switching itself on, is the fault with the fascia panel (which contains all the controls) or the radio unit (that sits in the dash)?
Ta, Andrew
Did a quick bench test this morning and all good - the wire colours were correct.
For reference, if anyone has just the gauges and not the loom then the pinout for both gauges is as follows:
Pin 1 - signal (oil temp only)
Pin 2 - earth
Pin 3 - illumination
Pin 4 - switched live
Yes I do have that loom, I intend on removing the connector that would plug into the chassis loom of the R’s and connect it to the relevant places (positive, ground, signal) hence why I need to know the pinouts of the gauges.
All I know is pin 1 on the oil temp is signal (as that pin is vacant...
I didnt think they are illuminating? If so then the extra pin makes sense.
Yes they are VDO, no markings on the back other than 1,2,3,4 for the pins.
I did research other VDO gauges thinking they would be similar but nothing I found matches the setup of the Cupra R ones.
Hi all,
I've got a set of original Cupra R gauges (volts and oil temp) that I want to put in my Cupra but I cant find any wiring diagrams for them. Can anyone pass on any info please?
I need either which pin is live/ground/signal on the back of the gauges or how the chassis side connector...
my mate ran both at the same time on his xr2 turbo (fmic and charge cooler), get the best of both worlds that way, guess it worked well to cos that thing was rapid!
i guess the most obvious and easiest is to do things like n249 removal and sai removal, smalller washer bottle, battery in boot etc.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3111538
http://www.vagowners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?303-Ibiza-MK3-N249-Bypass...
im not sure if the ones ive got are the right ones (i'll let you know when they come)
but ive ordered 3 "junior timer 2 way male connector" Durite part number 0-012-61. i found some on ebay - all had the durite part number in the description somewhere, but im sure your local car electrics place...
you can either solder tehm directly into the female plug, ie just push em into the end as if tehy were the male plug and use a touch of solder to hold em in place
or
ive got some replacement male plugs in the post, going to solder the resistors into the back of them and then reconnect as...
ok cool nice one, does the vac pipe from the top of the dv now go straight into the manifold, and the white and black valve thing (2nd pic) is just binned?
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