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Similar to mine, it turned out to be the reat seat latch mechanism that was creaking.

Thats good to know i guess

I was not too surprised as the rear pipes had to be replaced about 2yrs ago as they could not get the old hoses off then. So it should all be okay in the braking department now, new discs and pads on the front, new braided hoses and new pipes/lines all round. But now my gearbox has started to...

Thanks Andyj, they went on fine. Had to have the brake pipes replaced though as they could not get the old hoses off.

Are they the correct ones, they do not list the model or brake size/calliper code?

Hi all, I have been thinking of changing the brake set-up on my Cupra 8v. Rather than get a set of 2nd hand 16v 280mm brakes I have decided to stick with the stuff I have got and get some decent discs, pads and hoses. Goodridge do not list a set for the 8v but i'm wondering if one of the sets...

Nope, not my little rocket then. I do have some spare stuff if you are interested though like a Seat Sport strut brace, original dump valve and some 16" wheels with tyres?

My first name is Paul

As the title says, has anyone on here got my old silver 3dr FR 20vt?

They keep the suspension in allignment better and make the steering more direct but at the expense of a bit of comfort and noise as the solid bushes allow more vibrations to be transmitted to the chassis. So it depends what result you are after?

I have just changed to Eibach springs and Koni FSD dampers. Previously i had the Koni Sport kit. The FSDs and Eibach give a much better ride and handle mid corner bumps a lot better than the Koni Sport kit. The standard suspension is rubbish.

31psi for the fronts and 29psi for the backs, thats what i run around at around town with just a couple of people in the car.

I have the same problem with my 1.8T FR and I had it even before I got it re-mapped. I have had the 4 wheel laser allignment done and got the solid Cupra Tdi wishbone bushes (i.e. no play in them) but it still happens. It still does it to an extent on the motorway when i put my foot down so...

If you drive with just one or two people in the car most of the time then 30psi in the backs would be better. The tyre shine could have caused the problem, if you got it on some of the outer tread then the cornering would have meant that it made contact with the road, hence the spin. Had the...

An old thread I know but you can add me to the list. My bolt fell out on the way to the dealer so it sounded like i was on my way to take part in a banger race!

Same here. I also run the backs on 2psi less than the recommended to give the back some extra contact and grip.

If your filter is due to be changed then you might as well get a K&N or Green filter rather than a std one. You might notice a quicker throttle responce with the K&N if your current one is clogged up...

Mine does this also and seems to be more noticeable after my remap. It does not drop below 600rpm and it only does it every so often so i put it down to a characteristic of the map/car. If it gets more noticeable or worse then i'll investigate further and try the above suggestions.

Looks like Awesome have got some in http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=150510

So as the Jabba one is thicker then this might be best for the Cupra owners or those with thicker (Jabba) front ARBs and do lots of track days and the Whiteline would be more suited to those with std front ARBs that want to reduce roll and have better handling but don't want to go too extreme...