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I know & reading it back I didn't put it well. Sorry for that. :cheers:?

If I can get 2 bikes in the back of a Fiat Seicento, though I did have to remove both wheels, then if you can't do it in an Ibiza there's something wrong. A Mk4 Bezza is the best part of 70cm longer & a fair bit wider. rocky2008, In all honesty giving a frame size is pointless, even keeping...

But peek power isn't when you change up, it's some time AFTER that... could be 10rpm after it but typically is at least a few 100rpm where is dependent on the shape of the power/torque curve after peek power & the gearing. As you don't know the exact shape of that torque curve you can't work...

It looks like he's hit around 4000 to 4025 then shut the throttle totally, it certainly isn't a red-line run, iirc the red line is 4750. I also need ratios for the gears to plot anything. A rule of thumb for aprox peek power is (whp+10)/0.9=bhb, reversing that you get to (bhp*0.9)-10=whp

Yeah that's an open offer, I need a power or torque graph plotted against rpm (preferably from the wheels but est fly is fine) & the gear ratios raw ratios (1st 3.535, 2nd 2.048... final drive 4.078) & tyre profile or mph/1000rpm. Driven 3 stock VAG 1.9 TDIs; 1 PD 130, 2 PD160, also drove a...

Sounds great but to increase torque by 25% (a noticeable torque drop) you increase the ratio by 30% (a not uncommon ratio increase) ends up in a net acceleration loss. You'll find that the lower gears are typically the ones that holding onto the revs beyond peek power becomes more advantageous...

I completely agree my Panda uses a PowerFlow exhaust & I took it to a different dealer for it's inspection, the guy was cursing the dealer I had it made at because they had totally screwed up the welding & bending of the system, apparently I'm not the first system he felt obliged to rebuild...

Actually for a 10mm difference probably no significant gain in rubber on the road, what you'll do is make the contact patch shorter & wider. This means the tyre will grip for longer but be less progressive when it does let go. Probably got far more to do with the tyre than the profile. Pirelli...

Yeah, you're looking at the wrong graph. This is a thrust (lbs) v's speed (mph) graph based on data from when the Panda was missing in the lower/mid range at WOT, anyway I've used the stock gearing show where the change points are. This clearly shows that theoretically you should go to the...

Adam R, basic physics in a very simple form acceleration = thrust / mass You don't get better acceleration by not using the highest value of thrust end of story. This is why you have thrust plotted per gear to get it bang on the nose back working from a whp run is better & bhp is the worse...

Very true but the only way you get proven gains is by someone trying it. I think you'll find the exhausts end up giving very similar gains as my experience with SuperSprint has always been positive is aural & performance terms. I've been thinking I'll get a SuperSprint exhaust, but right now I'm...

Where & why is the damage happening? No one has ever mentioned this issue to me, the engine is good for those rpm, the turbo isn't running to fast it's just not trimmed to be efficient at those speeds, nothings getting out of control thermally. This is the way most engines are set up from the...

Supersprint usually do decent R&D. Their Panda 100HP system not only produces more power everywhere above 1800rpm but pushes peek torque 400 or so rpm down the rev range & peek power a few 100rpm further up. How it compared to the Miltek system is anyone's guess & bet no one has run them back to...

However changing up at peek power isn't the fastest thing to do, it'll be somewhere passed peek power. If your turbo is hitting a flow brick wall at say 180bhp, until the turbo starts getting inefficient it's probably worth holding onto the gear well past peek power. The Panda for instance is...

I hate to break it to you but copper grease is a high temperature grease. ;)

Red herring, some cars it's well past the red line others it's well before, depends on the engine. Get it on a rolling road & thrust graphs done in each gear, where they cross you change up ;) It'll be different for each gear unless you're hitting the limiter before the trust drops off.

Remember if you're changing the wheel you only need to lift it up an inch or so off the ground, normally I do this by lifting the suspension arm rather than the car. As the emergency jacks are usually total c**p it allows me to have a small bottle jack stowed under one of the front seats.

What year is your car? Ask what it's for but if it includes the timing belt I'd generally it changed at 40 to 50k miles or 3 years, a little more conservative than most manufactures but better safe that sorry imo, especially on a petrol that's revved a fair bit.

As has been said, if you have problems change the filters, all 3 of them, oil, plugs & leads if required (obviously the last 2 only apply to petrol engines). It's cheap & quick, if it doesn't solve the problem is gives you the best fighting chance of solving it without complications. With a...

Talk to Earls, they're expensive but good quality ime. They will happily make up custom lines for you too, just make sure you get them with stainless fittings & some sort of protective sleeve.