Search results

I had the same on mine... Took several passes with a machine polisher and a cutting compound to get rid of it.

Not with mine it isn't anyway mate no, I'd literally stopped for a few minutes after a 16 mile journey, so the engine was warm enough to not even need them. It still hasn't done it again either...

Ah forgot to update on this... Battery is perfect. It was showing a standing charge of 12.48v. I can't remember the cranking current but it was more than high enough anyway, it wasn't far off what the rating of the battery is. So I'm now totally stumped again. And the car hasn't done it again...

I'll get myself to halfrauds tomorrow for a "hopefully" free battery check. Will post how it goes!

I'm very interested in what people think about it as well because it's totally confused me lol! It's interesting you should say that about the battery though because I left my lights on while I left the car for a few mins. Obviously the headlights went off and sidelights stayed on but the...

Last night after my 16 mile drive home from work I stopped at the shop for a few minutes. When I got back in the car and tried to start it, it took 5 attempts for it to fire. Odd thing is, it turned over as normal, went to fire, spluttered a bit and then cut the starter even though I held the...

It won't make any difference whatsoever. It will literally just cause glare to other drivers. Because all the light which hits the road is created from the light hitting the reflector, any light which is blocked by the glare cap will just go everywhere and not on the road. If you have an old...

I'm sure a failed N75 valve could cause this problem. And that's a simple cheap fix. I'd be trying that first as I'm pretty sure there isn't a code which actually tells you the actuator has failed.

I'm not sure to be honest mate, it's hard to tell from a picture. I'm sure there was changes in design of the pump over the years due to the wear on them and failures you probably already know about. Best thing to do is read the thread above in this forum about the changes in design and compare...

I can't answer if the pump internals will be correct, but I do know if you take it out then yes you should replace the seals. As a general rule of thumb if you take a seal out you always put a new one back in.

Hmm it doesn't sound like anything to worry about, I would imagine it's just the cold but you would imagine any water vapour would've evaporated after an hour of driving.

Is it only a small amount on idle? Does it get worse when driving it?

Welcome to the club mate. I'm from falkirk!

I wouldn't say you're being led up the garden path, it sounds like that genuinely is the fault. But they told you it had a timing fault and it was OK to drive away. To me that is their mistake for not realising the timing was out. My question would be how it has ended up out. The timing chain...

It's never bothered me that much. Do you reckon it would be straightforward to do? You should try it and post a guide on how to do it.

Sounds like hpfp (high pressure fuel pump) failure. Search for it. Loads of info on it, and not cheap to repair once it's too late.

What exactly do you mean? My Leon tells me when and what doors are open, including boot and bonnet. Are you referring to puddle lights that illuminate the road when you open the door?

Just to add, driving it now will only make it worse as the regeneration has to be initiated by the ecu when it senses it's under the right conditions. Because it now detects it's so blocked it won't attempt it, and it'll get blocked until it can no longer run, so get it into the garage before...

Sounds like you left it too late to do a regeneration, and the dpf is now blocked beyond regeneration without being taken into the dealer. Also putting your foot down doesn't help, it makes it worse by putting more soot into it, it just needs steady continuous driving at a reasonable speed.

Also this is on the mk2 leon, might be different on the mk1.