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Try Dave at Sere in the dealer section on here. Give him your VIN and ask him to check the spec of the wing mirror, center dash console around the heater controls, the wheels and the bumbers. If anybody can help with OEM stuff, it's normally him!

Just for curiosity; What type and size front brakes do you have? Are the rear brake discs vented or not? Also, post a pic of the front seats.

Tighten up the spark plug to that well known torque setting of “good “n” tight”

On an AUQ. Unbolt and push to the side the plate with all the vac bits on under the mani. Flexi joint on a ¼” extension and either socket or hex key to remove T’stat house taking care not to brake the dipstick tube. Clean, replace, refit and refill It’s only about an hour’s work

http://www.midlandvw.co.uk

This is a Mk1, Pre Facelift AUQ Cupra For some reason you have the honey combe around the front S badge and side skirts What bumper do you have on the back, black lower section or body colour?

Crack it loose with a short spanner Place your fluid recovery tube over the nipple Twist the tube to open the nipple Snug it up with the short spanner again to finish

If the temp sits solid at 90° when in stop start traffic, but drops when you’re cruising it’s the thermostat.

Better brakes would be a good start, before you think about going any faster

If you have access to VCDS, you might as well wait until you can read any fault codes, just drive it easy for now. Boost, Vac and PCV leaks are very, very common, so a smoke test is never a bad thing.

Sounds like N249 and SAI has been deleted, without removing the old pipework. Nothing to worry about as long as there are no leaks. Also maybe a PCV modification. Get a Smoke Test

Or get one of these: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/car-tools/gunson-eezibleed The refurb parts are available from Dave @ sere in the dealer section on here

Refurb the offending calliper by putting a new piston and seals in. It’ll only cost you about £25 and no special tools needed. Make sure to clean everything up well and lubricate the seals with brake fluid. Also clamp the line before removing the brake hose. Get a pressure bleeding kit and...

160g/s is about 200 BHP I also think a PCV or Vac leak most likely

If it’s had a cold side relocation of the BOV it sounds like your car has had some modification. Is it also possible that the MAF has been mapped out?

What’s the MAF peak to on a 3rd or 4th gear WOT run to the red line? Also, whilst stationery, hold the revs a 3k, MAF should read about 10g/s

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=199990 DS2500 pads are preferred by most

Are you sure the Flutter isn’t turbo stall because the DV has failed, or there’s a leak in its vacuum line?

I used that stuff in my old Pug 306 to fix a water leak in a metal pipe union. It fixed the leak good ‘n proper, but also blocked all manner of other things and 3 months later the head gasket had blown where 2 cylinders we not getting any coolant. I will never use it again on any car that I...

The centre seat belt simply will not work if the backrest is not fitted in the car correctly. Sort the latch that locks the backrest in place, and the seat belt will work.