Search results

The remote part pulls away from the blade so easy replaced . Just don't lose the immob chip inside. I'd you only got one key I'd suggest looking at getting a spare even if it's a cheap cloned solid key always safer to have a back up . The battery codes denote the size 20mm round 3.2mm thick...

Always changed mine from a single cr2032 to double cr2016. Don't ask me why but always found more reliable

Dig up and old thread .as I can never find it . Mine is 55 plate pre facelift . Originally 00121 Changed to 00151 (still too skitty for me) Managed to code 00181 - now perfect. (for me anyway) But then I was bought up with manual steering RWD cars with no gizmos so used to a bit of weight

Temp sensor clips in back of the grill. But im sure that's left side .probably doesn't help much

As fozzybear said connect up the supply properly and better still from the battery with a decent guage wire Start dropping the bass and you'll be wondering why your amp / stereos is cutting out or worse still your dash and Speedo start melting Ooh And a fuse It will not only be safer but...

Sounds daft but want to get the low down on vapers the technical side really Just toying an idea to see if could setup/make a remote one in some way. Just think long lasting times and on demand air freshener lol

Owcha Spindles snapped off ye ? Tried a breakers at all ? Maybe able to strip just that bit out from a donor

Like the idea. Would have gone for thinner lines myself though

Could be subtle difference between the two such as the angle of the spindles casting to compensate for the screen rake. Or the length of the rods I can see why your asking. Sadly not had both side by side to compare

The part number difference would suggest not The first 3 digits are for the specific model or engine etc Next 6 are group and sub group .as in body / wiper linkage Then letters for specifics as in base or gti etc. Can be doubled up if modified or upgraded and even X for exchange items etc...

Needs a physical check then to be honest . Just replaced turbo on same car .previous owner had attempted just the same as you described .resulted in his turbo breaking off the inlet and munching up the turbines . Fingers crossed.

Maybe you did get too high a boost until it blew the seals through No limp mode as the sensor never got the chance to read the pressure ??

Ripped door apart to replace the lock mech anyway and found the regulator was missing .ALL OF IT lol Glass took 2 hours to get down as they decided to cut out the mech and silicone the glass in place OWCH Found a mech at scrappers and swapped motors etc over

https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/auto-gauge-boost-gauge-how-to-wire-up-correctly.223051/ Might help shed some light in the darkness . If you can post that pic might get the model sorted and barrow down the Instructions

L200 diesel pickup AND a caravan ? It took cops 40 miles to catch him in God knows what flash BMW/range rover etc What the hell , lmao :roflmao::roflmao:

Don't ask me where exactly sadly but I seem to remember there was a way in vagcom to read the lock switch status 1 n 0 to diagnose door lock operation I'll dig about as I've written it down somewhere Time being check inside the rubber tunnel between the door and the car. Might just be a broken...

Likewise hence the suggestion mind you £40 odd ain't too bad ill get some pics and whip one off measure up etc May not work out but least it's info for other cars

Got a beetle here if anyone wants dimensions off the ones used in that ?

http://www.oemepc.com If you know the car details / trans code etc can look up original number and search that way .

Have the fault codes returned ? Have you tried a decent higher octane fuel in it for a couple tanks ?